This was originally posted in another thread that covered a lot of topics. I've moved the info to this new thread for easier searching in the future:





I've fixed several shift levers that had a lot of slop. This picture shows what you can expect to find. This is on a 1965ish T-98. The exact details of the seal may be different, but the general arrangement of the pin and slot should be the same:







The shift lever has been removed to show the ball with the slot of the side. Note the corresponding pin in the shift tower, where that ball is seated. What happens is the slot gets oversized from wear. To an extent, the pin wears down, too, but the metal is harder so the slot gets most of the wear.

What I've done is machine the slot oversized so the sides are parallel again. I used a milling machine, but I think it could be done very carefully with a file. Take your time and measure the slot walls with an inside caliper. Expect to find a lot of wear and tear on the slot walls. You could try finding a used shift lever, but I'd be willing to bet large sums of your money you will also find any used parts are pretty worn out, too.

Once the slot is parallel again, you will need to make an oversized pin to compensate. I've used the shank of a drill bit, cut to length. You will also need to oversize the hole in the side of the shift tower to match. Note there isn't a lot of meat above the hole for the pin. If you have to go much oversized, you will have to make a stepped pin so you don't weaken the shift tower casting.

You may also find the existing pin is not snug in the shift tower. The pin is hardened and can wallow out the hole and cause slop there, too. This will be fixed if drilling out the shift tower for an oversized pin.

When removing the shift lever, be very careful for that pin. It's just a slip fit into the shift tower. If loose, which is common, it can easily fall inside the transmission. After unscrewing the retaining cap for the shift lever, the outside of the pin is now visible on the driver's side. Take a strong magnet to the pin and see if you can fish it out. Wiggle the lever slightly to remove any tension on it. The pin will usually pop out and then you can lift the shift lever straight up without any worries. You may also be able to reach the inner tip of the pin (still inside the slot) from above with a very small screwdriver if you lift the seal and cap out of the way. When reinstalling the shift lever, secure the pin to the shift tower with a dab of super glue so you don't have to worry about it falling inside.

I've done this repair without having to remove the transmission on other vehicles. I can't remember how much access you'd have on a Ford truck. You'd only need a couple of inches to the side if using a right angle drill and a stubby bit. To drill out the hole for the pin, stuff a rag in the tower to catch any chips. A blob of grease will help, too.

If you don't want to oversize the slot in the shift lever, you could have a machine shop weld it up and then recut the slot to original specs. I've oversized several, however, so this is a good repair.

 

A little update. Unthreading the cap can be a bit of a booger. Previously I had used a big pair of Channellock pliers, but with the thick straight jaws, it's hard to get a good grip in the narrow space available. I noticed a set of oil filter pliers had thin curved jaws that gripped the cap very well. This view shows the pliers in use on my '84 F250:



The pliers shown are HyperTough, which is the house brand for Le Mart Du Wal (aka WalMart). Any brand should work.

 

FYI
The NP 435 also has the same shifter set up so this repair should work on it as well.
Dave ----