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I have a 1984 AOD that is behind a 84 f150.
My AOD has a 3-4 accumulator in the case drivers side. I want to put a valve body in from a 1990 AOD.
From my research ford deleted the 3-4 accumulator in case in 89. If i put a 90's valvebody in my 84 do I remove the 3-4 acumulator in case or leave it in?
With the AOD valve body removed, two servo pistons and an accumulator are visible. From left to right are the overdrive band servo, low-reverse servo, and the 3-4 shift accumulator (I think they ment 2-3 accumulator). The 3-4 shift accumulator was dropped in 1989 with the addition of a revised valve body and plate. If you use a 1980–1988 AOD valve body, you must have the 3-4 shift accumulator.
Here is the AOD main case with the servo/ accumulator covers and pistons removed. Ultimately, Ford eliminated the accumulator in production, which is why some AOD cores are not so equipped. The 3-4 shift accumulator was phased out in the 1989 model year due to leak issues. The valve body is also different to accommodate this production change; it employs a revised separator plate. If your AOD doesn’t have a 3-4 shift accumulator, don’t worry about installing one.
So im guessing I take the 3-4 accumulator out if I use a post 89 valve body.
You had better talk to a transmission guy. If you have a accumulator that you don't want to use, you usually have to make a plug and plug off the passage. That's what I had to do with a old chrysler trans I modified. The accumulator just softens the shifts.
Talked with a guy who does transmissions from what I understand you are right it needs to be plugged and then the 3-4 accumulator can be removed.
This is the 89-90 valve body
so it looks like it is blocked off and I can remove the acumulator.
If you can find good step by step instructions on the internet, I would follow them. I am not sure what you are doing, but if it's a common thing to do you should be able to find something on it. What I was doing was a common thing to do to the Chrysler I was working on, and I had to take a tap, put grease on it, put some threads in a couple of holes, and then take some bolts and cut them off and make plugs and loctite them in place.
Just be careful and don't get it to shift too hard, it can shorten the life of the band linkages by bringing them in too harshly. Apparently you can have too much of a good thing.
I have been seaching high and low and picking peoples brains. I want to avoid shift kits and drilling.
On a good day I have kinda perfect shifts..
So far I believe I have a leaky 1-2 shift valve (soft early shifts unless the tv pressure is set so high it goes into 3rd around 35mph but 1-2 will come in at 14-16 set high
3-4 shift valve is sticking no overdrive until 60 mph screaming at 3200 rpm and let off the gas then it clunks into overdrive.
I belive the previous owner towed alot and never changed the fluid often.. The valve body bolts seemed to have been tightened over 100 in lbs...that coupled with the heat may have warped the valve body..
I have gotten the heat down below 200..I plan on draining the fluid real good and put the new valve body in, put fresh fluid and a filter and external filter on.
With this and the transmission cooler I am hoping to get a few more miles out of the transmission until I can find a good rebuild book and build one from scratch with heavy duty parts.
Thanks for being active and helping me out on here..
02-26-2017, 05:34 PM
