I swear this truck has gremlins or something
#1
I swear this truck has gremlins or something
Ok, a little background first. This is a 1989 F250 7.3 diesel and it has had intermittent no start issues since we got it a year ago.
So far, I've been able to figure out and correct them as they happen but, this latest one has me stumped.
Over the last year, I've replaced a broken ignition key switch plunger, broken turn signal switch, broken fuel gauge, starter, starter relay/solenoid, glow plug relay, alternator, fuel filter and both batteries. All the fuel lines were replaced before we bought it and supposedly, the glow plugs too.
Thinking fuel pressure might be an issue, I hooked up a test gauge at the fuel filter yesterday to make sure the mechanical pump was working properly. After having sat in the driveway without being driven for 2 weeks (because it wouldn't start and I didn't have time to mess with it), the engine fired right up after only 2 or 3 seconds of cranking. The test gauge showed about 6 psi and we let it run for a little while just to be sure.
Shut it off, waited about 30 minutes and tried again. Again, it fired right up. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine.
Went to start it this morning and it was a big fat NO! It turns over but, won't start. I just don't get it!
So far, I've been able to figure out and correct them as they happen but, this latest one has me stumped.
Over the last year, I've replaced a broken ignition key switch plunger, broken turn signal switch, broken fuel gauge, starter, starter relay/solenoid, glow plug relay, alternator, fuel filter and both batteries. All the fuel lines were replaced before we bought it and supposedly, the glow plugs too.
Thinking fuel pressure might be an issue, I hooked up a test gauge at the fuel filter yesterday to make sure the mechanical pump was working properly. After having sat in the driveway without being driven for 2 weeks (because it wouldn't start and I didn't have time to mess with it), the engine fired right up after only 2 or 3 seconds of cranking. The test gauge showed about 6 psi and we let it run for a little while just to be sure.
Shut it off, waited about 30 minutes and tried again. Again, it fired right up. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine.
Went to start it this morning and it was a big fat NO! It turns over but, won't start. I just don't get it!
#3
#5
Um, two things to do:
1. Turn the key on. Then, go out front and pull the wire off the frontmost connector on the IP. You should hear a click. When you plug it back in, same click.
2. Get a piece of wire and test each glow plug. You connect one end of the wire to Battery +, and then touch the other end to the glow plug terminal on each glow plug(remove the wire first). If you see a spark, it's good. If no spark, replace it.
It only takes 1 dead glow plug to make it hard to start. 3, and it'll *never* start cold without assistance.
1. Turn the key on. Then, go out front and pull the wire off the frontmost connector on the IP. You should hear a click. When you plug it back in, same click.
2. Get a piece of wire and test each glow plug. You connect one end of the wire to Battery +, and then touch the other end to the glow plug terminal on each glow plug(remove the wire first). If you see a spark, it's good. If no spark, replace it.
It only takes 1 dead glow plug to make it hard to start. 3, and it'll *never* start cold without assistance.
#6
If you're referring to the series of clicks I hear right after the "wait to start" light goes out, then yes.
sounds like a glow plug issue to me. id bet your gp controller is on its way out. i run a manual toggle switch to control them. one less thing to go wrong in my opinion.
#7
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#8
I will do the test on the glow plugs though as soon as I get a chance.
#9
IP = Injector Pump. It's the thing on top of the engine that looks like this:
You might want to get a new Voltage Regulator (assuming your 1989 has one). They are pretty cheap online, and whenever you change your alternator and batteries, it's typical to replace that too.
1989 FORD F-250 7.3L 445cid V8 DIESEL Voltage Regulator | RockAuto
That doesn't fix your current situation, because you can't get it started, but once you do, your new V.R. will make sure the alternator is charging properly.
Speaking of charging, do you have a volt meter to test the batteries? Also, do you have a battery charger or jump starter?
#11
You are correct, it will seem like you are spinning the motor fast enough but you may not be if you have any slight issues making it harder to start when cold like a few weak glow plugs, one time it will light right up then it won't.
I learned my lesson with the 31 batteries and a Power Master starter, even with suspect cables this thing pushes power right through ?able contacts and corrosion..... and spins it like nothing.
#12
I'm leaning toward one or more weak glow plugs but, I will find out for sure when I test them. It definitely does NOT like cold weather, even with the engine block heater plugged in ahead of time. When the weather is warm, it will usually start right away but, occasionally requires extended cranking time.
No time to mess with it today (I work 2nd shift) but, perhaps tomorrow I can check 1 or more things you guys suggested.
No time to mess with it today (I work 2nd shift) but, perhaps tomorrow I can check 1 or more things you guys suggested.
#13
#14
Having a great starter and batteries along with good alternator can overcome some minor issues to get it going. if you have just a OK starter and batteries and such everything has to be in good order or she will just drain the batts and you will be like what the heck....
#15
Are you getting Diesel dribbling out when you crack an injector line?