IT LIVES
#16
Fired it up, drove it out of the garage to take registration/ insurance pics, then started it again & backed it up into her bay- no issues.
Just looked up reverse gear : 7.82:1. I can only imagine driving this in 1st gear (6.40) and low range out back (8.11). My buddy told me the other rod next to the choke was a sort of hand throttle… with as challenging as this truck is to climb in (& out) of, that sounds like a real tempting of fate. Maybe the hand throttle is why so many COE's got bashed grilles/fenders.
Just looked up reverse gear : 7.82:1. I can only imagine driving this in 1st gear (6.40) and low range out back (8.11). My buddy told me the other rod next to the choke was a sort of hand throttle… with as challenging as this truck is to climb in (& out) of, that sounds like a real tempting of fate. Maybe the hand throttle is why so many COE's got bashed grilles/fenders.
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...28451&page=all
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...2834&showall=1
#18
Because of the spring return on the throttle, the hand throttle returns to idle when you let go of the ****. So I don't see it being useful for winter warmup or cruise control use.
I use it to start on a hill with a load. With right foot on the brake to hold the truck in place and left foot to engage the clutch, I use the hand throttle to raise the engine speed while engaging the clutch.
Also useful for starting the engine while having my right foot on the brake to keep the truck from rolling.
The emergency brake isn't up to the task of holding the truck on a hill.
I use it to start on a hill with a load. With right foot on the brake to hold the truck in place and left foot to engage the clutch, I use the hand throttle to raise the engine speed while engaging the clutch.
Also useful for starting the engine while having my right foot on the brake to keep the truck from rolling.
The emergency brake isn't up to the task of holding the truck on a hill.
#19
#21
#22
My hand throttle has enough tension/resistance on it so it will stay out (higher RPM) when pulled. Works good for initial warm-up and when running the PTO.
#24
I had a factory Ford twist lock throttle from a 60s school bus, matched my choke *****. But it finally broke and I nought the one you have with the chrome T
#25
#26
My '40 has this device on the pass dash side. Steel bracket w 3 screws to dash, steel 'Z' arm, AL clip with (broken) masonite piece. It swivels: from the shown position backward & down, UE; folded against the dash.
Prior to thinking much about it, I was absently thinking it was a sort of clipboard, but in looking at it again, I think it's a placard, meant to fold up into the shown position and have some sort of word there ('Delivery'?)
Anyone ever seen something like this or have any other info?
Prior to thinking much about it, I was absently thinking it was a sort of clipboard, but in looking at it again, I think it's a placard, meant to fold up into the shown position and have some sort of word there ('Delivery'?)
Anyone ever seen something like this or have any other info?
#27
My 1940 1-1/2 ton panel fire engine has a locking t-handle manual throttle to maintain engine speed while pumping. It has a cable looped around the throttle ball connector. I want to adapt the cable to a female ball connector. Any thoughts? Sorry, I missed the cable/sheath end that should have been at the upper right. The cable sheath is anchored to the bracket just visible in the picture.
#28
I keep saying "It's to be expected" but the hiccups still make a little nuts.
Generator was sqealing after running a while/warming up. There were also double lock washers between the gen & pulley. I did end up taking it to a generator shop- they said the front bearing was gouging the shaft, they brazed the shaft & turned it, installed a spacer vs. the lock washers & replaced both bearings. Tested it and the 1960s regulator, said it was doing fine.
After the semi-arduous task of replacing the fan-mounted gen & reconnecting/refilling the coolant, I drove the truck in my driveway, between testing the gen output at the battery (good!) and running it less than I would say 10 minutes, the squeal I am 95% sure came from the generator started up again! Of course, with the gen supposedly checked out, now I'm thinking scarier thoughts, like internal engine... like bearings.
I'm at my wits end on this one.
- - - - -
On top of that, I did the whole procedure to remove the speedo cable/sheath once it was determined the cable was broken. Drop driveshaft & loosen up parking brake to get at trans end of cable. Was broken about 4 inches from that end, all untwisted inside.
Did a nice cleaning of the sheath, white litium grease on the new NOS cable, reinserted & buttoned everything back up. In that same very short driveway test, where it drove less than 300 feet, the speedo needle didn't budge.
Disconnected at speedo, drove again a short distance, cable turned fine. NOS speedo was varnished up tight as a drum. My oversight!! Pulled the speedo, in the process of cleaning it out/freeing it up. Naturally I'm now also worried about the new cable- if the speedo was locked up but the cable was turning, I MUST have screwed the new cable and it's just hanging by a thread.
Truck for sale!
Generator was sqealing after running a while/warming up. There were also double lock washers between the gen & pulley. I did end up taking it to a generator shop- they said the front bearing was gouging the shaft, they brazed the shaft & turned it, installed a spacer vs. the lock washers & replaced both bearings. Tested it and the 1960s regulator, said it was doing fine.
After the semi-arduous task of replacing the fan-mounted gen & reconnecting/refilling the coolant, I drove the truck in my driveway, between testing the gen output at the battery (good!) and running it less than I would say 10 minutes, the squeal I am 95% sure came from the generator started up again! Of course, with the gen supposedly checked out, now I'm thinking scarier thoughts, like internal engine... like bearings.
I'm at my wits end on this one.
- - - - -
On top of that, I did the whole procedure to remove the speedo cable/sheath once it was determined the cable was broken. Drop driveshaft & loosen up parking brake to get at trans end of cable. Was broken about 4 inches from that end, all untwisted inside.
Did a nice cleaning of the sheath, white litium grease on the new NOS cable, reinserted & buttoned everything back up. In that same very short driveway test, where it drove less than 300 feet, the speedo needle didn't budge.
Disconnected at speedo, drove again a short distance, cable turned fine. NOS speedo was varnished up tight as a drum. My oversight!! Pulled the speedo, in the process of cleaning it out/freeing it up. Naturally I'm now also worried about the new cable- if the speedo was locked up but the cable was turning, I MUST have screwed the new cable and it's just hanging by a thread.
Truck for sale!
#29
Disconnected at speedo, drove again a short distance, cable turned fine. NOS speedo was varnished up tight as a drum. My oversight!! Pulled the speedo, in the process of cleaning it out/freeing it up. Naturally I'm now also worried about the new cable- if the speedo was locked up but the cable was turning, I MUST have screwed the new cable and it's just hanging by a thread.
Truck for sale!
Truck for sale!
I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around that... but my speedometer works fine.
#30
UPDATE : ran the truck today, 300' down the driveway, about 200' down the street and the squeal returned. got it back to the shop and took the belts off and restarted- it was still squealing. Not the generator, pretty sure it's a vacuum leak at the carb. The carb is rebuilt and the gaskets are all new, mating surfaces were eyeballed and looked fine, but going to replace the gasket.
Any recommendations? I recall reading something about a copper gasket. If that was incorrect, is it thought to be OK to use a sealant? At least it's something relatively simple vs. the dist. or gen.
ALso, tho odometer works, but the speedo doesn't seem to. Will check again- I wasn't going over 5 MPH today.
Any recommendations? I recall reading something about a copper gasket. If that was incorrect, is it thought to be OK to use a sealant? At least it's something relatively simple vs. the dist. or gen.
ALso, tho odometer works, but the speedo doesn't seem to. Will check again- I wasn't going over 5 MPH today.