Yes to pto and c6, best tranny ever made. Truck came with a spare t case, will check that one out too. I know she will be thirsty(especially when boosted) but I have only put about 200 miles on it since August. Wanted to make it a toy so it don't just sit and rot and be neglected as "just a plow truck".

Let me put the 6 question this way:
If the fun ton had a 5 speed, it would get a 300-6 with a Offy intake, Lunati 277/296 106icl (vs 107 I ran) 112lsa, t72 ebay turbo(Borg S366 would be a great upgrade), holley 450-600cfm. With the 5 speed you of course have the advantage of picking a gear to cruise around 2500rpm where the combo is ready to rock. Can you lug the 277 at 1500 rpm in 5th? probably not.


Could also advance the cam 4* to aid bottom end, but my finding is the 300-6 with a carbed intake works best from 2400 and up (even stock) and a v-8 works best from 2900 and up.

Next step would be to go with an efi lower intake and custom box upper to increase runner length and pump up the bottom end, make even more power with better cylinder filling, yet short enough not to hurt top end much. Port efi is of course the answer here.

Could also step down to the lunati 269 intake lobe and next step down exhaust lobe and possibly add 1.7 rockers, there is a member on here who did but they ground it on a 110 icl and was a little soft down low. He will be advancing it 4* to a 106 icl.

There is also a member on here who has my old Lunati 277 and is doing a similar combo. Will have to touch base with him and see how things are going.

What gears/tire size on the tonner?

 

Haaaa. LMAO!

 

Mani is my slang for manifold.

 

in all those miles i lost a number of t-case but dont remember losing a transmission.

pm sending if you have time to look at it, if not i fully understand.

 

Reply sent.

 

Some fuel system updates done this weekend...



Fuel cell located in the cross box, to keep the sun, rain, and most importantly snow off of it.

 

100 micron pre filter and AEM 50-1005 380lph fuel pump installed below fuel level. This is more pump than the FiTech can return. Adding an 8an return and drilling the return fitting keeps the pressure at the FiTech factory regulated 58 psi.

 

Bed floor drilled and grommets installed for the 6an feed, 10 gauge wires in a poly loomed harness, and 8an return.

 

Checked my spare t case and it's a 1356, no pto. Plugged a c6 yoke into it, I see they are the same spline.

What are the chances there is a stock application on the rear driveshaft that used 1350 joints front and rear? Mine has a 1330 joint at the t case, 1350 at rear end. 1330 makes me nervous as efi lol.

 

I agree I don't think I'd run 1330's behind a boosted big block. Plans for a driveshaft loop? Lol

 

2 on the rear shaft for sure! Going to lower the transmission cross member also, the t case u joint angle is horrible. Going to balance the angles with the front shaft, as it of course be in 4wd when I drop the hammer.

Hoping the stock converter will be the fuse, should blow through that around 700 ftlbs of tq.

Looking at a np205 also if things get messy.

 

yeah the 205 is my favorite t case. No chain, no pump, just cast iron and gears. Funny how easy it is to make power with turbos, it seems to be more expensive to build a drivetrain to hold it these days.

 

drive line
there should be a spicer sliding yoke with 1350 dimension. in fact i know there is but not the part number. there is also a 1410, yoke. let me do some digging. in fact im fairly certain my tonner dually had 1350 both ends


t case:
for sure if your going crazy on power you may look at a 271 model. for straight through shaft size and strength, its superior to anything else.
the problem is frame / case interferance. the 271 is long from center to left output sprocket

th 205 is superior because of the case. chain drive alum cases have snapped the left section; the front axle output side completely off BUT the 205 is so short that it will put your front driveline at an angle that is too severe for anykind of torque load
the front differential is placed too far to the left, so front drive line will have about 25-27 degree angle left

driveline angles? a cv joint or double cardan? maybe

a 1345 case is very stout and has a yoke rear/ front like the 205, its then very simple to change yokes
1345 price? under 50 dollars. you can bust up 5 of them b4 paying for one good 271

 

Found a 1350 yoke for the 1356 and weld in yoke for the shaft, about $100 for both. Front shaft currently has a double cardan.

I'm in good with the local salvage yard, he's also a "lifted super duty guy". He's thinking np205, he has a divorced set up with shafts...

 

unmarried..... a real pain to install. i did that on a crew cab once-never again.

the t case front output offset difference still needs a work around...

front driveshaft jump-roping, from too long.

i thought about a carrier bearing on the front driveshaft then a short jump shaft to the pumpkin, but thats too complicated, power rob, and vibrations, getting the angles to balance....

the un married t case needs a +/- 4 degree cant on front face, custom cross member needed frame rails are not 34 inch like the old unmarried unit's crossmembers.

shifting linkage needs a work around but not complicated

A 1356 will last a long time. a 271 longer still. case cracking is your only concern. there should be a big open loop about .75 in diameter cast into the 1356 case near the front output shaft,. i often wondered if that could be put to work as a support tie in for the offset portion of the t case.
if that were tied in to the transmission itself so twisting forces from high torque would be stabilized.....

A married 205 will need to be supported; broken tailhousings a result if not. many many complaints online of guys ignoring this fact and busting a perfectly good transmission case. but its possible with high power chain drive cases also. The zf transmission in both small and big blocks often cracked with just factory HP . they crack just where the webbing drops from the back of the trans box.



and lastly the darn 205 has only a 1.96:1 deep ratio.

In spending way too much time thinking about this i have come to the conclusions that a stax or atlas t case is the only final solution to the transfer of power, IF i want deep reduction coupled with strength and simplicity (married)
on a truck that is way too heavy 8000#, underpowered, (300 six) with a 5 speed.

BUT i can visualize being fully loaded in deep reduction , first gear just creeping along over uneven rough ground or in mud
the 300 singing, and the gears, just loping along.

yea , its what this whole truck toy thing is all about aint it?