The bad part is bringing it in for the lifter and melty wet.

 

i know , for a fact there are no almond trees growing right now in almond wisconsin!!!

 

That's a fact!

Upon popping the intake off, I see the exhaust push rod and lifter had a bad day too.

 

Cylinder checks out good. Clipped 30 psi of regulated air on the cylinder and the engine turned over. Then pushed on each valve and got a pop out of the intake and an instant rattle out of the rain cap.

Wasn't expecting the rain cap rattle, I said what the???

Seems to be a sneeze at this point from bad wires.

 

One more hole to go, then bath time. I have a Torker2 and Victor460 sitting there giving me the hairy eyeball, but I know better.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but I have no idea what your picture is of.

Sounds like good news, damage was limited to lifter & push rod. Is that right?

 

Stock dual plane D0VE intake and 4 hole spacer. Miss-typed in beginning of thread and typed D2VE.

Yes just lifters and push rods on #8. Will install 2 different rockers to be safe also.

 

Some preferred parts. The HT900's have been great over the years especially with non adjustable valve train.

Genuine Motorcraft WR-4075 spark plug wires will be installed as well.

 

Back in black.

 

Anxiously awaiting to see a video of this thing on boost! Looks like other then the lifter mishap things are going well. Clean install, as usual for you.

 

Thanks resto-mod. O2 sensor bit the dust, so this is all I can give ya for now...

 

"I got nine lives
Cat's eyes
Abusin' every one of them and running wild"
-back in black.


pretty pretty work.


some interesting starter relay and circuit breakers there on the fender wall.
this very day i am designing a system "far from ford" for my old 86 diesel.
care to tell me what you have there?

thx.

 

Ac and Dc lol! Fuel pump output on the FiTech activates the 120 amp continuous relay then to a 25 amp circuit breaker then to the fuel pump. Also just a stock solenoid for normal starter duty, and solenoid for plow.

No need for 120 amp but was the cheapest and can feed methanol pump and vacuum pump later with more circuit breakers if I add those.

FiTech can feed this fuel pump with it's output but wanted to keep the heat out of the throttle body/electronics. The output is rpm sensitive, so it will stop the fuel pump with rpm loss. If I go crazy later, will add an inertia switch for additional safety.

 

ha ha (ac and dc)
thanks

in this case here i have seen others use a buse fuze block between alt. and relay.

its seems un needed.
what do you say?
i just wire off alt. direct to relay then to whatever destination will get a fuse.

 

Should be fine.