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To my friend tip49..wish I had your skills and could accomplish my floor pan project for $90..
Petemcl..I have one question..looks like your applying your new front floor pan from the underside..am I seeing that correctly?
But, if buy the LMC "complete floor pan" which side would you apply it to..or would cut out as much as possible and overlap the new pan to the old accordingly? You would't just overlay the new pan over "all of the best" metal available..would ya?
No, I put the new part after some trimming on top of the stubs where the rust was cut out.
Even with the full floor pan you are going to have some areas that you will need to fab some patches.
I have been working on floor replacement for the past few weeks and just finished the repair. I started with the idea of just replacing the front floor piece but I found I needed new toe boards as well as front mount replacements. The replacement floor was one of the "flimsy" half floors but once everything is connected it stiffens right up. Here are a few pictures of the before and after repair.
Main floor piece cut out. Toe boards rotted badly at connection to floorboards as well as some holes further up. Cab mount extension also rotted.
Right toe board fit and welded into place. Working on left side. New cab mounts already grafted into good section of old ones. Must be done before toe boards are permanently put in place.
Toe boards installed and floor board welded in place from top side. Toe board to floor pan flange clamped in place on the bottom side of the floor.
Bottom seams welded and toe board to floor flange welded as well.
Completed floor pan, cab mounts and toe board repairs. Seams sealed with brush on seam sealer both on top and bottom. Floor bottom was eventually sprayed with primer and then resprayed with Raptor bed liner.
What did you use for seam sealer on the cab above?
Looks good Pete. I used Eastwood's Brush On Seam Sealer. Kevin Tetz had a short video on the product website showing a trick on using it which I used and it worked on great.
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Screw it..I'm going to put my project on hold until I can lay out the $600 plus ship and buy the LMC "complete" floor pan having the piece of mind of knowing that after many hours of sweat & tears..I didn't allow a couple of hundred bucks stand in the way of giving this once in a lifetime project my best shot.[QUOTE]
Rich, Don't let the setback get to you. Wanted to touch base with you as your thread kind of got away on you. Is there a machine/fabrication shop near you that you could source material from; you could get a piece of 18 ga metal braked ? This would cover the kick up to the firewall so so that you could still make use of the material you ordered, and save some heartache on costs to return, etc ? Just a suggestion..it may be an cost effective alternative. I'm no expert, just looking for solutions for your present scenario.
I had to rebend them a bit but better than making them from scratch myself. Patterns aren't pressed as deep as the original and I had to drill the holes for the pedal bumpers even though they had them marked.
I had to rebend them a bit but better than making them from scratch myself. Patterns aren't pressed as deep as the original and I had to drill the holes for the pedal bumpers even though they had them marked.
03-01-2017, 08:41 PM
