Thread Rules: No 6.0 trash talk and no I'm not swapping in a ****ing Cummins. Objective, realistic, helpful posts.

Basics: 2001 Excursion (current mods in my sig), 285,xxx miles. Buying a daily beater to drive while repairs and reliability fixes on X are done is NOT an option, otherwise I mine as well sell the Chevelle because I'll never have the money to finish it.

Dilemma: Getting on in years, component failure and/or leakage is becoming every other month. Still owe roughly $8500 on it.

Obvious: I beat on it harder than most members in here. YES, I acknowledge that contributes to failure rates - especially on an older vehicle. Majority of abuse is unavoidable, the roads I drive are terrible and plants/refineries/pipeline RoW are hard on vehicles in general.

Option 1: Deal with failures as I have been, scrambling to find parts and paying through the nose. I work call out scheduling, I NEED it to work.

Option 2: Deal with failures that are major, ignore small stuff. Finish Chevelle into a reliable daily and then sideline the X for a major overhaul. Pull motor for full reseal, any upgrades that would be easier with motor out, fully clean engine and compartment, etc.

Option 3: Sell it. Procure a 6.0 Excursion, start all over. Slightly newer by 4 years, potential for way fewer miles and a cleaner, actually southern rig. Not a huge fan of starting from scratch, especially with the money that's in mine currently. Granted the injectors and labor and 38R were free, but the trans was my own money as was everything else. I would NOT be able to simultaneously own my current 7.3 and a 6.0 to swap suspension, financially that's impossible. Initial cost for immediate bulletproofing does not make me happy, but we all know it'll blow up if I don't because it's ME and my luck is terrible and my abuse kills everything that's weak.

Long and short of it, the stuff that's wearing out, breaking, etc is becoming almost a monthly occurrence. Yesterday the dipstick adapter finally called it quits and I lost a gallon of oil just getting it home. NOT the reason for this, I have researched and found the fix. Before that an HPO fitting o-ring at the pump gave out. The CarFax was fabricated which I only found out about a year or so after purchase, which would explain why this 'southern' rig has a rusting passenger door under the weather strip and a driver rear rocker I can put my fist through. Paint is failing, blah blah. I get it, it's 16 years old. Future upgrades are a full fuel system from Irate and a turbo upgrade, either an S369sxe OR the rumored KC69. Not looking for opinions on those at this time. Studs, springs and pushrods, 6.0 intercooler, and done. Finished.

Now that it's all out there, I don't know if this is a 'help me decide' or a rant. I think it's a mixture of both... I love having an Excursion, how they hold their value, and their growing rarity. It's practical, mine is a sleeper and that's just fun, and so long as it's not upside down its damn safe for my family.

Feel free to weigh in and PLEASE ABIDE BY THE INITIAL RULES. Thanks guys and gals

 

Although I am not a chevy fan of any sort I would have to go with option 2. Not bashing your chevelle just my opinion. I hope to never have another vehicle since I got my excursion. It has been my dream vehicle since I first saw one, and a 7.3l has been my engine of choice as well.

I hope this helps.

 

The last Chevelle was 1978. The first Excursion was 2000. So even if comparing the very newest Chevelle with the very oldest Excursion, the Chevelle would still be 22 years older than the Excursion, at minimum. In your case, add the appropriate years on top of 22 accordingly.

So how does replacing a vehicle that you are concerned about "getting on years", with a different vehicle that is a quarter of century older, resolve your concern about "daily driving" too old of a vehicle when you "need it to work."?

Is this because you believe Chevy's are more reliable than Fords? (That isn't violating the rules... )

And how will a Chevelle handle the "abuse" that "is unavoidable"? Is the Chevelle better able to negotiate the "terrible" roads that serve the plants/refineries/pipelines than your Excursion?

 

No worries, everyone has different preferences. When it comes to muscle cars, I don't have a side as America was making some badass stuff back then, regardless of brand. Modern stuff I prefer Ford trucks, can't pinpoint why.

Option 2 is what I'm leaning towards myself. Financially and logically it's the sensible option.

 

The Chevelle, for all intents and purposes, will be a brand new vehicle when it's done outside of the body panels and some of the frame. Due to a shortage of work rigs at the moment, the X gets called to duty on occasion - otherwise it gets driven to work and I take a work truck. Waiting on the new rigs to come in and get outfitted currently.

Plus it'd only be a replacement until the X is back on the road.

 

Option 4

Carry a few gallons of oil, park in the dirt

 

I lost a GALLON just getting it home from 15 minutes away yesterday, lol. That's a LOT of oil

 

Number 2 is the only option.

 

You could sell me your injectors and turbo and I will send you my stock set up..save money on wear and tear since you are "stock"..!

If you are to the point where you are just hoping you can get there and back in the EX, then yes get rid of it and start over. You can always get another one when you are ready and are in a better financial situation. Good luck on your decision.

 

Are you leaking oil that much or burning it ?

 

He has a bad leak where the dipstick flange mates to the engine block.

Stewart

 

Ive ""fixed"" a few of the dipstick leaks. If the 2" nut isn't loose I drain the oil, brake clean the fitting and the pan, then use the ford grey (TA-31) around the outside and the tube. I did a lot of 7.3's like this, much easier than step one remove engine. The Ford silicone is a lot thicker than the aftermarket stuff. If you clean it good and let it sit for a day after you goop it, might buy you some time. I also have done franken pan repair because of down time on others.

 

Nah, Step 1 is to log onto FTE and click the dip stick flange repair thread in the 7.3L forum that was started almost 10 years ago, with no engine removal step listed, or needed.

Stewart

 

Dude, just sell it and buy something bigger... oh wait

 

I am curious about this. Did the seller provide you a counterfit Carfax report, or the official Carfax report was not accurate? Once I ran an Autocheck report on a vehicle before I bought it, and afterwards ran a Carfax. I would not have bought it if the Autocheck had shown what the Carfax did.