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For you guys buying these: my opinion from reading the other thread and other info that has been shared: is I'd SKIP the overdrive pulley unless you decide you need it after install -- I doubt you'll ever need more idle juice from that bad boy, and so why bother spinning it faster all the time??
The added bonus of the smaller pulley is it compensates the larger case. With a stock pulley you can barely get the belt on and my belt has a lot of miles on it. A new belt I think I'd have to unbolt the alternator to get it on. Pulley is about 12 bux.
The stock cable from the alternator to the battery, with two fuse links spliced in will work but it's right on the edge. You just need to run a parallel cable from the alternator to the battery, then use a fuse at that point to protect everything. A 30" 4-8ga cable will work, I'm using a 6ga. The alternator post on the L-N is larger then stock, so one both ends of the cable needs a 5/16" lug. You'll need to drill out the stock terminal as well to fit, as you want to retain the factory cable too.
Here's my layout, but unlike the pictures you should add wire loom over the cable for protection as the stock cables are.
The best fuse is from Blue Sea which you can get from West Marine or Amazon. You'll need a 100a fuse and the holder.
The added bonus of the smaller pulley is it compensates the larger case. With a stock pulley you can barely get the belt on and my belt has a lot of miles on it. A new belt I think I'd have to unbolt the alternator to get it on. Pulley is about 12 bux.
I'm going to voice my opinion based on my experience and knowledge with glow plugs and other modules.
I don't see the problem at all with the cycling. With the more available AMPS with the larger alternator, it doesn't take as long to heat the glow plug to warm the plug. Glow plugs can overheat and melt if the ON time is too long. The module is doing its job by lowering the on time since it now has a higher available amperage to heat the plugs faster.
No worries.
The stock size pulley makes it a "just fit" situation. It takes some work to get it over the lip while the smaller pulley is easier.
I've been in a quandary with L-N over their voltage output, and I think they have about had it with me. I've gone through all their variations of power out and voltage sense and it always goes over 14.4v, which gets the GPCM to go wonky. IMO, it won't hurt anything. But it's occurance is very dependent on how much energy the batteries absorb, and how quickly. It changed for me depending on what batteries and conditions, just to make you aware.
Anyway, the quest for a 6.0 owner sometimes is to get away from low voltage after start due to glow plug draw. This alternator will output 180a with the stock pulley and 210-215a with the smaller pulley, so the 20a electronics, 90a glow plugs, and 50a battery recharge is easily handled in the first two minutes. So it become a race to full voltage depending on how you pulley the alternator. Despite my thinking I had my iCloud video situation sorted out, I don't. So here are two video examples I've used to show L-N the issue, which they won't review. It will give you an idea what these capabilities are with the two different pulleys, and the third one I'll include is what many see, and I did too with my old batteries, a calm glow plug situation with the small pulley where the GPCM just shuts down early. The overdrive, smaller pulley is gold as shown in the eBay listing.
If the video is not clear tap the YouTube header to go to you tube and select a higher resolution video.
I forgot ..... the question was asked where to get the cable. The ideal cable is one made for marine service which is tinned for corrosion resistance, with appropriate lugs and heat shrink. I usually buy my cables from Laurence Marine on the web. Scott and others buy from Genuine Dealz, also on the web. They also have the Blue Sea fuse components.
Jack, that is awesome, thank you for advising. I'd never seen a fuse like that. I bought one of the fuse holder blocks, but you can't get to one of the tightening screws very well, so I set it aside for now and have the aux cable bolted direct.
XDP, and Jeff from this forum, were terrific! Thank you so much for price matching and helped get another item while I was at it. Gotta love one-stop shopping.
Thanks everyone for your support. I'll be pulling the plug on this later this week. Jeff from XDP has been a great help and assured me the price match too. That being said I'm going to get it ordered this week and likely to do cables and fuse block too. Which I know I will need. I'm just not going to get at this project until I get back in May. Underway for the next 6 weeks or so so my truck will be idle. No sense in trying to do it all before next week but at least the goodies will be home when I'm home and waiting.
Loosen the nut while it's installed on the truck and the belt it tight
Once it's off the truck. Impact wrench is about the only way to keep it from spinning.
Watson,
You mentioned you come out to the Navy ships were you a retired OS? I knew a OS1 in my days with Watson as his last name thought maybe it could be you.
In reference to my earlier post, #3 above.
I've had an inquery about the authenticity of the alt. My camera sux but here are a couple of pics. It came in the blue and white box with all the paperwork. It also came with new bolts and the adapter harness for some applications.
02-20-2017, 06:01 PM
