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I don't remember if I actually did a write-up on mine or if it was just mentioned in my diesel conversion thread.
I used a B&W turnover ball kit for a flatbed, and mounted it between two heavy pieces of angle so it would sit flush to the bed floor. Lots of maths to get it centered just ahead of the diff, and flush with the top of the ribs.
Two major issues with the turnover ball on these trucks, though-
First, you can't put the ball in upside down or it'll smack the diff on bumps. I stored mine tucked into the space between a stake pocket and the upper bed skin, it stayed put without issues.
Second, the handle they send needs a lot of modification, and also needs something to hold it horizontal. I found this out when mind hit the spring plate on a bump with some weight in the back.
The bed bolts on these truck are not sufficient to handle anything other than the bed, so if you do use a rail mount system use grade 8 bolts as well.
You want ever regret putting a underbed hitch in. I have one in my 92 and like it well enough I'll be putting one in my 80.
Oh I know. They're fantastic. One is going in the 99 F350 now. I had to borrow my buddy's super duty to get this thing home the other day.
The more I think about this, the more I don't really like the idea. I don't think I have enough truck to really handle this thing. Now if I had a F250 with, say a 390 or better, I'd probably have it done already. (or a smaller, lighter goose, but then why don't I just invest that money in a WD hitch? These are the sort of questions that plague my mind)
I used a Reese Goose hitch in three of my F350's(96, 98, 00). Yes, they had rails in the bed, but I put a rubber mat over that and the hitch just sat through 4 small slits into the rails. I did not want to go through the under bed mounting routine. I moved the same hitch into each truck as I traded them in.
No complaints at all. Yes, there are rails "in the bed", but that was a non issue with me as they were hardly noticeable under the mat.
I don't know what bit me, but all of a sudden yesterday I decided that I am going to build one that bolts in the bed.
What I've come up with so far is using the 4 bed bolt holes that are between the wheel wells. Putting a couple pieces of 2" heavy-wall square tube front to back between them, with small spacers on the ends so that they sit on the bottom of the bed "ribs" and welding a large piece of Channel across between them. Mounting the ball and D-rings on that.
That should be quite adequate to support up to 2,000lbs worth of tongue weight, and tow up to 10,000lbs overall. ( I wouldn't want to do any more than that with only my "little" F-100 haha)
Here's a crude drawing of what i have in mind. As if looking down on it.
I used a Reese Goose hitch in three of my F350's(96, 98, 00). Yes, they had rails in the bed, but I put a rubber mat over that and the hitch just sat through 4 small slits into the rails. I did not want to go through the under bed mounting routine. I moved the same hitch into each truck as I traded them in.
No complaints at all. Yes, there are rails "in the bed", but that was a non issue with me as they were hardly noticeable under the mat.
FWIW, I have basically the same as Freightrain in my '65F250. Universal bed rails bolted to under bed L-brackets which are bolted to the frame. I then have a fifth wheel hitch and a goose neck hitch that fits the bed rails. Thick rubber mat covers the rails when not in use. I also installed a brake controller and 7 pin plug. Allows me to use the same fifth wheel hitch and goose neck hitch out of my 2002 pickup.
Once the rails are in the bed, you make some "L" brackets that tie it into the frame rails. That way you are not depending on the rails under the bed skin to support the weight.
Once the rails are in the bed, you make some "L" brackets that tie it into the frame rails. That way you are not depending on the rails under the bed skin to support the weight.
Similar to many, yes.
As you are, I was concerned about the bed rails being able to support the weight. I pulled a bolt out and discovered that there are actually built-in sleeves around the bolts that keep them from crushing. If I was going to be towing it at capacity, then yes I would absolutely be "beefing up" the way it mounts and to what. But with a MAX tongue weight of 2,000lbs or so, I believe the 4 points should be able to support that.
Back in the day before all the kits, they just used 6" channel right up under the bed and over the frame rails, then a piece of plate down over the side of the frame. Most were welded to the frame, personally, I'd drill holes and bolt it. Pretty simple fab work, used an electricians hole cutter for the bolt shoulder to go right to the channel iron.
But I realize I'm old school and if I can make it I do, most people want to buy something already engineered for their application.
02-17-2017, 04:27 PM
(or a smaller, lighter goose, but then why don't I just invest that money in a WD hitch? These are the sort of questions that plague my mind)
