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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

3G conversion with RCCI's Volt Meter Conversion

 
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:53 PM
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3G conversion with RCCI's Volt Meter Conversion

Finally getting around to the 3G conversion. In doing so, I wanted to keep my dash looking factory AND add a volt meter. I found a company called Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovation's a few months ago and then a thread on another board that used this conversion. I called and talked to Bob, the owner of RCCI and talked to him about the conversion. He is very knowledgeable and had done a conversion for a Youtube channel called Autorestomod who is building '72 F100. You can find their install video here:

I liked what Bob had to say about the conversion, plus he buys core gauges to help offset the cost. I sent in one gutted ammeter plus a working one for the conversion so my total cost was $23 IIRC. I am keeping my original ammeter in case we ever decide to go back to 100% correct and the converted one I received back was very high quality.

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As you can see, the gauge looks great and it comes with an instruction sheet on how to install it.

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Another front view of the gauge.

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Here is the back of the gauge with posts labeled as to which side is positive and which side is negative.

In following the other thread, they utilized the factory harness and part of the original alternator harness to power it. I pulled a couple of alternator harnesses out of old trucks at the salvage yard so I do not have to cut up mine. The connector with the black/yellow wire, red wire, and yellow wire will be used from the donor alternator harness. The blk/ylw wire will power the cab, the red will be volt meter (GROUND) and the ylw wire will be the volt meter gauge switched power source. I still have to mock up the donor harness tonight and will get some pictures up later to show the donor harness and what was removed to run the voltmeter and cab power.
 
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:32 PM
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Here are the wiring harness updates.

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This is the alternator harness I sacrificed for my converted volt meter to work. Thinking outside the box here, the red will be ground and the yellow will be switched feed into the gauge. The larger gauge black/ylw will be cab power.

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Here is the salvaged harness. This way I can plug into the existing main harness into the cab. The red and yellow wires originally had run to the factory in dash ammeter (if your dash had the gauge package and not the idiot light). By using these, there is no issue with cutting the main harness into the back of the gauges and, by suggestion from the other forum, just looks cleaner to me.

More to follow.
 
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:21 PM
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Good idea, all the way around. Thanks for the info!
 
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Old 02-18-2017, 10:51 PM
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Alright time for an update. Not completed yet, but gauges swapped out and the instrument cluster was cleaned. I also got out the plastic polish and cleaned up the inside and outside of the "glass". 45+ years of dirt, dust and grime removed.

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First up, Ammeter removed and sitting side by side with the converted one that is now the new Volt meter. Can you tell the difference? (Volt meter is on the right.)

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Back of the new Voltage meter. The terminal on the left will be the power into the gauge using the old wiring from the original ammeter (using the YELLOW wire).

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Back of gauge cluster with the new Voltage meter installed with new insulator to protect the posts. (BTW it is a cheap piece to replace at less than $3.00 to prevent a short just in case something hits those posts and causes a short!) I traced the path on the circuit board with a red Sharpie to make sure it was in the right spot.

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Here you can see the entire back of the cluster with the circuit I traced. It leads to the top right wire in the plug.


Back side of the harness plug as it would go into the back of the cluster. Top right wire is the one that lines up to our traced circuit on the cluster and to the (+) post of the Voltage gauge.

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And final update for tonight is the cluster cleaned and put back together. The gauge pegs left when the SWITCHED POWER is not on.

I did get the wiring and harness installed that will be the new cab power and gauge power/ground this afternoon too. There are a couple of terminals that need to be added and the wiring for the 3G to be installed yet also. Now, if the great rains and floods in NorCal stay away for another day I just might get the 3G alternator installed and the wiring done. As soon as it does I will get you some more updates and hopefully the final install images.
 
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:22 AM
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The cluster looks nice.

....I see by the date stamp on it that it was assembled on the 29th anniversary of Pearl Harbor.
 
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:42 AM
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Ultra, I caught the date too. I found it very fitting as the Original owner (who left the vehicle to his son when he died) fought in WWII. His original Army armored unit medallion still resides on the front and center grille. I will not remove it as a lasting tribute to The Greatest Generation.
 

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Old 02-19-2017, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rechinca View Post
Ultra, I caught the date too. I found it very fitting as the Original owner (who left the vehicle to his son when he died) fought in WWII. His original Army armored unit medallion still resides on the front and center grille. I will not remove it as a lasting tribute to The Greatest Generation.
That's a great idea and a tribute to his family too.
 
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:43 AM
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Nice project rechinca. I will follow the rest of this one. Looks like a good way to keep the dash looking original.
 
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:14 AM
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Thanks Brian and Gary. I did not get much done in the way of this project yesterday, contemplating building an ark due to the rains her in Nor Cal. Did a couple of things in relation to my cab power and gauge + /- feeds, but the rain is canceling my efforts out. Wish the Trans Am eternal project was done so I could get this one in the garage. May have to just put up an ez-up to do the under-hood portion.
 
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:17 PM
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You showing how to convert to Volt meter AND how to wire the 3G? I think HioSilver ought to add this to his Compilation once you're done.
 
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Old 02-21-2017, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA View Post
You showing how to convert to Volt meter AND how to wire the 3G? I think HioSilver ought to add this to his Compilation once you're done.
JEFF, good idea as I took a lot from his thread, a couple others on here and the new one from another forum to build this one. I figured since I was combining installs it wasn't easier to add as one project, but you could glean out what you would need to do for adding in college voltage meter conversion if one already had a 3G install done or in the works.

i did get some work done the last two days in between rain drops, just not enough time to photograph the new work before getting drenched! Hopefully a couple of pics can be done yet this afternoon.
 
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Old 02-22-2017, 02:55 PM
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Calling NumberDummy and JEFFFAFA for part number help!!

Slight snag in the install and need some help.

360 engine with high mount alternator. The donor 3G alternator I am using is from a 1994 Mustang and is on the approved donor list. Problem: No matte what I do, the alternator will not fit between the brackets and the head. The bearing boss is jammed into it and pushes the brackets out. I ground some down on the boss, but there is no way to clearance it enough to fit. I am starting to thing the minor differences in brackets for years/options may be the issue. If not, I may need to go to the low mount style.

Brackets on the truck are:
C8AF-10145-A - Upper adjustment arm
C8AE-10156-B - Lower mount bracket

Need to know if these are the correct brackets for what I am doing and if there is some other issue I do not know about (reminder I have an aftermarket/dealer add-on AC system and bracket). If not what are the right ones and also need to know the part numbers for the low mount brackets. There are so many options out there for the FE motors I am lost in the fog of part numbers and what I can/should/need to use.

The wiring is just about completed for the install and I will update that part tonight. In among the work for the instrument cluster I discovered the brace from the dash to the firewall that helps support the radio is missing but I have one en route to fix that issue while I have the opening for the access. With the add-on AC unit there is no access to fix that from the bottom so I must fix it while the cluster is out.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rechinca View Post
Calling NumberDummy and JEFFFAFA for part number help!!

Slight snag in the install and need some help.

360 engine with high mount alternator. The donor 3G alternator I am using is from a 1994 Mustang and is on the approved donor list. Problem: No matte what I do, the alternator will not fit between the brackets and the head. The bearing boss is jammed into it and pushes the brackets out. I ground some down on the boss, but there is no way to clearance it enough to fit. I am starting to thing the minor differences in brackets for years/options may be the issue. If not, I may need to go to the low mount style.

Brackets on the truck are:
C8AF-10145-A - Upper adjustment arm
C8AE-10156-B - Lower mount bracket

Need to know if these are the correct brackets for what I am doing and if there is some other issue I do not know about (reminder I have an aftermarket/dealer add-on AC system and bracket). If not what are the right ones and also need to know the part numbers for the low mount brackets. There are so many options out there for the FE motors I am lost in the fog of part numbers and what I can/should/need to use.

The wiring is just about completed for the install and I will update that part tonight. In among the work for the instrument cluster I discovered the brace from the dash to the firewall that helps support the radio is missing but I have one en route to fix that issue while I have the opening for the access. With the add-on AC unit there is no access to fix that from the bottom so I must fix it while the cluster is out.
Ford doesn't catalog them as High Mount and Low mount. Nor do I have old enough slides to let you know what the engineering numbers are. But I can tell you what Ford listed.
38/55 amp w/o A/C,small case alt....C8AZ10145A and C8AZ10156B.
55 amp with factory A/C, small case alt....C8OZ10145A and C9TZ10A313A.
65/70 amp large case alt....C8AZ10145B and C3SZ10156C.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 02:46 PM
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JEFFFAFA I just sent you a PM back and thanks. I thought of another questions just now though. I have no idea what alternator mine had originally, but when it went bad right after I bought the truck, I replaced it with a 65A from AutoZone as it was what was available right then to get the truck running. My brackets are similar in part numbers to the small case alternator which is maybe why I am having the issue with the 3G fitting between the brackets and the head? I have sourced a set of the 65/70A with AC brackets possibly and will update that when I have them in hand.
 
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Old 02-23-2017, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rechinca View Post
JEFFFAFA I just sent you a PM back and thanks. I thought of another questions just now though. I have no idea what alternator mine had originally, but when it went bad right after I bought the truck, I replaced it with a 65A from AutoZone as it was what was available right then to get the truck running. My brackets are similar in part numbers to the small case alternator which is maybe why I am having the issue with the 3G fitting between the brackets and the head? I have sourced a set of the 65/70A with AC brackets possibly and will update that when I have them in hand.
I think those brackets for the 65/70 amp, big case alternator, are going to fit the bill.
 

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