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1950 F4 Build Log

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Old 02-14-2017, 01:57 PM
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1950 F4 Build Log

Morning all,


Starting build log for my newest purchase, pictures to follow. Bit of background, bought this sight unseen. Truck has been sitting in an Idaho field and I live in LA/Orange County. Heading to Idaho in a few weeks to take inventory and get to work.


Plans:
Sandblast/Powdercoat (likely 2 tone gloss maroon and cream)
12V conversion, all new wiring
Redo seat upholstery in raw leather
Build stake bed
6 new WheelsNow 22.5"s
Slotted/Drilled front disc conversion (maybe rear too)
Restore everything else to factory


Seller listed serial # as 98RTL396*** but it's a 226 4 speed..





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Old 02-14-2017, 06:05 PM
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Good looking project truck.

On the serial number, I would check the numbers on the glove box, firewall tag, and the frame to insure they match the title. That I6 looks way too factory - especially the battery tray and all electrical connections - for an engine transplant survivor.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:36 PM
mOROTBREATH mOROTBREATH is offline
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22.5's on an F4 might be overkill. here is a thread of a gent who has a beautiful F4 with 19.5s he said were sourced from a 1970's RV. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...l#post16685140

His album has pictures: My 1948 F-4 project by F4Bob | Ford-Trucks.com
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FortyNiner View Post
Good looking project truck.

On the serial number, I would check the numbers on the glove box, firewall tag, and the frame to insure they match the title. That I6 looks way too factory - especially the battery tray and all electrical connections - for an engine transplant survivor.


Thanks for the heads up. New info, this is a 235" (158" wheelbase) truck. I've been told that points more to it actually being an F5/6? Written on the cab door is "16,000 GW" which would point more towards it being an F6 with the GVWR of 16,000 no?


Checking the frame #'s tomorrow.


If that's correct then perhaps it's a 6 cyl F6 with a V8 F4 cab from some point in its history?


Help!




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Old 02-16-2017, 02:41 PM
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Well, F4's had a GVWR of 10,000lbs I believe.


Wanna know what I think? Someone painted some numbers on your doors and they were wrong.
Look at your frame, that thing is tiny.
Attatched is a '54 F600 Posted recently by dave df85732:







I know these trucks got more heavy duty over time but compare his '54 F600 to your '50 "F6".

Yeah, that is a F4 frame you got there. Some wise guy with a paint brush got excited, that's about it.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:46 PM
mOROTBREATH mOROTBREATH is offline
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Additionally, here's a picture of F4bob's F4, compare your frame to his.

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Old 02-16-2017, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mOROTBREATH View Post
Well, F4's had a GVWR of 10,000lbs I believe.


Wanna know what I think? Someone painted some numbers on your doors and they were wrong.
Look at your frame, that thing is tiny.
Attatched is a '54 F600 Posted recently by dave df85732:







I know these trucks got more heavy duty over time but compare his '54 F600 to your '50 "F6".

Yeah, that is a F4 frame you got there. Some wise guy with a paint brush got excited, that's about it.


Despite the fact that the wheelbase 158"....? I suppose it could be Canadian but seems suspect. Will check serial # tomorrow, maybe F5?


Seems pretty similar
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:03 PM
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The serial number on the frame is the only thing that will say for sure.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:15 PM
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That frame depth is normal thru an F6 truck. An F6 will have a double frame, F4s and F5s did not. I haven't seen any evidence that 158" WB F4s were produced in the US, but they were in Canada. AFAIK only 134" F4s were produced here. Your truck does have aftermarket add on auxiliary springs on the back. Auxiliary springs were not available on an F4, but I think they were standard equipment on F6 and possibly the F5. The actual serial number on the frame will tell you what you have.
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:31 PM
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Ok updates:

Found frame serial number but not sure it's original. Something about how it sort of drifts towards the side of the frame and it almost looks hand engraved. It seemed like there was maybe a serial # just to the left of the clear one..but it's so faint I can't tell if I'm imagining it. Very faint RT before the L, which makes me think THAT is the original serial. Can someone let me know if this engraving is typical or if someone added this to match the new cab VIN?

Also, I have 3 different wheel types on the truck. Can someone confirm if they're all deadly?

Looked at the frame and it almost looks like it was cut, lengthened, and welded. Again not sure if this is atypical so if anyone could chime in that would be awesome.
















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Old 02-18-2017, 07:46 PM
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Alex, The photo with the serial number, L396124, is the original number. That is the correct font for a factory stamping. There should be a star, then either 98HT or 98RT just ahead of the L. There is a star after the 4. Your frame has definitely been lengthened. The two wheels on the drivers side look like WMs, the photo of the right rear is an earlier lock ring wheel.
Mark
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4 View Post
Alex, The photo with the serial number, L396124, is the original number. That is the correct font for a factory stamping. There should be a star, then either 98HT or 98RT just ahead of the L. There is a star after the 4. Your frame has definitely been lengthened. The two wheels on the drivers side look like WMs, the photo of the right rear is an earlier lock ring wheel.
Mark
Yes, 98RT before the L just incredibly faint.

So..98RTL meaning V8 F4...means this is not the original engine but is model correct, and someone lengthened it. Got it!

Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:28 PM
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My '49F4 serial number is 98RT then the number. It has no L
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4 View Post
My '49F4 serial number is 98RT then the number. It has no L
Mark
I'll just assume my truck is a mixture of random components and leave it at that!
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:28 AM
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Got some work done this weekend. Cylinder head is going in for hot tank, surfacing, and paint. To get the front wheels off I needed a 3/4" drive 1.5" socket + 25" breaker bar + 6' pipe + 250 lb on the end of it...bouncing. Brake drums are being turned and rebuilt too. Next will be to tear the motor apart and see why some valves are stuck. Then get the block tanked and painted before a rebuild. Starter likely needs a rebuild or replacement, hooked it up to a battery and nothing happened. And brake booster inlet fitting is sheared off with a nice chunk of the booster body...so I'll need a new one of those.


















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