Having also built my fair share (and a bunch of other people's too) of Cleveland (rocks!) engines, I wholeheartedly agree with your machinist. A reputable HIGH VOLUME, NOT HIGH PRESSURE oil pump is $ well spent in the longevity department. A good rule of thumb is to have 10-12 PSI FOR EVERY 1000 ENGINE RPM. (Ex. 5000 RPM, you need a minimum of 50-60 psi oil pressure for the engine to live happily ever after. )
Don't forget the ignition!!! I personally run MSD 6AL boxes with MSD Blaster 2 coils in every vehicle possible, my trucks included. I've had one box for about 18 years and it's gone from truck to truck with never an issue. This setup will burn whatever fuel you throw at it. Multiple Sparks through 20° of crankshaft rotation (as I recall) below 3000 RPM and ONE CONTINUOUS SPARK FOR 20° OF CRANK ROTATION ABOVE 3000RPM. It will work with the stock distributor. No extra horsepower, torque or MPG claims, just two abilities: Reliability and Availability. "If your truck ain't reliable, you ain't available." They aren't my sponsor, I get nothing from them (other than an awesome tech support line when/if needed). With all the knowledge and information I have acquired from all the posts/ threads I am happy to give rather than get for once.

 

Speaking of ignition, anyone have experience with these?

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/tr...r-distributor/

 

I don't personally, but the continuous multiple spark is a good quality, as is the compensation for electronic delay. Using a GM style module means that you can have a spare with you at all times, not take too much room in the emergency box (or probably find someone else who does have one), or get one at a local parts store should yours expire unexpectedly. All advantages. Not to mention the multiple color options! Also remember to spend the extra few dollars on a cap with brass rather than aluminum. Why? Do you really want your old beer can responsible for delivery of fire to your pride and joy?

 

thank you

 

No problem. With as much information as I have received from all the people that have posted here, I am glad to contribute once in a while

 

I have been researching a bunch of builds, and tmeyer youtube vids, build sheets etc.
I tentatively plan for a cam in the 210-215 @ .050 range, keep my stock heads, possibly gasket matching and mild port cleanup. Tmeyer pistons to come in around 9.3:1, weiland intake and stock exh manifolds, maybe hollow them out a bit. Unless i come upon some used headers that have decent construction with thick flanges etc. I have been using carb calculators, and obviously cfm comes in under 600 cfm for a 5000 rpm max.
which I" know i wont eben be touching with my C6. Why do i see so many builds where they throw a larger carb on, like a 750, on the dyno and make 10-15 more hp?
In all my 429, 460 and 472 builds a 600 cfm carb was sufficient on a stock engine, as mods progressed 750 and 795 quadrajet pulled much better. obviously more cubic inches. But i see alot of 460 builds of same caliber with 850-900 cfm carbs.

Does everyone just have "overcarb syndrome"?
Im planning on finding a used 600 cfm summit manual choke, vacc secondary carb to use for this build. I feel like its a great affordable mis between the upsides of motorcraft and holley.

15 years ago when i was single, this would be a 434 stroker with efi, roller cam and aluminum heads, those things just arent in the budget. LOL

 

Because everyone wants to say "750 double pumper". If you're going to be doing any elevation changes, a Holley is NOT the way to go due to the fixed jet sizes. I lived at 6,500 ft and commuted to under 1,000 ft daily. Holley rep said if I can figure out how to make it work at both ends without changing jets they would buy it. That said, Quadrajets are tunable with jets and metering Rod's as well as opening rate of the secondaries. Edelbrock also. Since I hit the age of" when I was younger I would would have..." I have enjoyed the simplicity of the Edelbrock carb. Tune once, leave it alone.

 

 

What is a Summit carb? I'm a big fan of Q-jets also. The taper off the metering rods is a major part in how much fuel flows through the jets and most people don't know that. I've run 10.00 qtr mi. times with my BBC and a mildly worked Q. Get them right and they're good forever. I've never tried one in a blue oval though. Great idea. My 78 F-250 4x4 has a 351M 2bbl. That might be a great idea for a swap. Just reverse the adapter plate from square bore to spread? I'm now enthusiastic. I just got the 4X and am getting it ready to be a daily driver. Interior is almost done with black carpet I heat formed, T-Bird SC bucket seats, guages (auto meter), blue leather dash cover and headliner. There was no distributor, wires and a rats nest for underhood wiring when I got it. I am at a grand total of $3.16 investment. That was a fuel filter. I really need a set of 17" 8 lug rims now. I have two sets of good 35x12.50;tires but can't find rims for a decent price. After I wear these out I'll go back to 16"s. Way bigger tire selection and cheaper. Didn't mean to ramble, oops. All this so my 76 F-250 Ranger SC 460 can get a rest and some much needed TLC

 

It appears summit bought the holley tooling for the old 4010
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs
They are a 4010 holley carb with a few great up dates. They are very good carburetors and are often overlooked because they are not a "regular holley". Holley created that carburetor from the Ford Autolite 4v carb found on many 60's and 70's fords (another great carburetor, just never flowed big CFM). The cool thing I like is that you can use all the same holley parts but dont have to worry about leaky float bowls and gaskets, PLUS it comes with annular boosters which are just about better for everything.

Thats what i did on the 400, the 460 i used a performer rpm manifold, it accepts a spreadbore carb. The only difficulty is the kickdown linkage if you have an auto. nothing a little fab wont fix.

 

Couldn't pass this deal up, take the $ i would have sunk into the 400 build and buy tires/wheels. I really was looking forward to unleashing the 400's potential, but such is life.

 

bout 390 hours on it, this holley needs a rebuild, no accel pump and everything was gummed up and corroded. I got owner to throw it in and i cleaned it to at least try and get her running. Runs great

 

If you can find out what year it is, I may have the "operator manual" for it. Mine is for a 76 if I remember correctly.

 

the generator? built in june 1999

Likely mine has the same parts as this, taken from another website. They use the dual plane cobrajet style intake manifold

"I to purchased a low hour - (543 hrs.) - industrial 460 used to power an Onan Generator - mine is a 1996 model set up to run on natural gas - I also had trouble finding information on line - I posted a question on this forum a little further down that has some great information - My engine has 1993/1996 factory truck F.I. pistons and rods - factory truck cam with double roller timing chain - E8TE cylinder heads with exhaust valve seat inserts to deal with the CNG/LPG higher exhaust gas temperatures- sodium filled exhaust valves - valves have 11/32 stems - standard truck exhaust manifolds - fully groved main and rod bearings - engine was super clean inside due to running dry fuel - my engine used a CNG carburetor on a 429SCJ intake manifold with a later casting number - from what I have been able to learn - these were set up to run on CNG/LPG or Gasoline - also they were built to run approximately ten thousand hours continuously under load in the 1800/2800 RPM range - that being said they will operate in the standard 460 truck RPM range - they were close tolerence well built engines- a race engine certainly not but basically a very well manufactured engine that will perform very well for a very long time in a stock application. I just completed installing my engine in a 1977 F250 4x4 camper special truck - it is without a doubt the smoothest running engine I have ever owned and pulls extremely well - the only modifications were the addition of a Ford Holley DIFF-9510-TA List #6361 carburetor and recurved the distributor, the timing curve for CNG/LPG is to fast for gasoline - sounds like you found a great engine. "

Also saw this verbage on same site
" Nice engine, basically the same as a 460 Marine. It should have the iron SCJ intake, SCJ camshaft (216*/220*@0.050), full-groove main bearings, D6TE truck rods with football-head bolts, heads are packed with slightly different valve train parts (all good), and in your particular case ("early 1990's" engine) it might even have forged flat top pistons. Lastly, it should have either E6TE or E8TE heads, which are basically D3VE heads with hardened seats (and one different accessory bolt thread on one end--no big deal).

OEM dish tops: 7.8:1
OEM Flat Tops: 8.8:1 "

I think only the earlier ones had the good cam and potentially flat top pistons

Part of me wants to put a mild cam in, mill out the intake to a double oval shape with a slight crossover, and either bore out exh manifolds or go with headers. Other part of me says keep it low budget, re-gasket everything, rebuild carb and stab it in truck and roll with it. Leaning towards the latter....so hard to suppress the inner gear head. Im guessing only way to check size of cam installed is a degree wheel setup?( im not inclined to purchase just for this)