What works best for me is to open the bleeders and let it gravity bleed, it varies but usually after 15 to 30 minutes they are dripping. I then get my wife out there to press the pedal to get the last bit of air out. There are exceptions, I just replaced the lines on the rear of my Tahoe and they would not gravity bleed, I had to get her out there to push the fluid through to the rear.

 

I had to laugh at myself after reading that last bit. I had done some really high quality mental aerobics and came to an impressive conclusion: The secret to good results is low volume and not too much vacuum, meaning I'd been overdoing it. I think the only thing I managed to prove is that I don't know what I'm talking about...

 

A couple more thoughts of suspect usefulness:

Could the calipers have metric bleeders? I've purchased some new overseas SAE part assemblies that had metric subcomponents. Over at the Fling Dung factory, they apparently designed their stuff to use as many local parts as possible, so you'd get metric fasteners holding an alternator together, even though the adjuster bolt was SAE per specs. So maybe your calipers have metric bleeders. Some metric threads are very close to SAE. If you have the bleeders handy that came with the new calipers, mike them carefully and see how they compare. See if the threads match up exactly, too, by holding the two bleeders together along the threads.

The other possibility is the angle of the tapered seat may be different. Compare the two bleeders side by side and see if that part matches.

 

I compared both bleeders, and the threads were dead on the same size. I noticed this morning that the passengers side is leaking as well. It seems about 1 drop of fluid is collecting around the bottom of the threads on both calipers.


The only other thing I did notice was the bleeder screws were way to tight when I purchased the remanufactured calipers.


I am going to call NAPA this morning and get them to order 2 more remanufactured units for me.

 

I talked with a co-worker this morning, and he indicated the small amount of fluid I am seeing around the threads might be residual fluid from bleeding the brakes/changing the bleeder.
The fact is, the fluid never actually dripsor runs down the front of the caliper. It just pools around the bottom of the threads.
What do you guys think?
I guess I am going to give it a couple of weeks and just drive it. If it never stops, I will get replacements before the 30 day return window runs out.
It makes sense to me. He said if it is actually leaking, it would leak while pressing the pedal and not while just sitting over night in his opinion.

 

Spraying brake cleaner around the threads to clean it would probably work. I have had that trouble before on a power steering hose leak. It was just left over oil in the threads but I was struggling with it till I figured that out.

 

I guess only time will tell. At this point I just want the leak to stop.

 

Well I got home this afternoon and the drivers side had a few drops on the concrete. I called napa and they ordered me 2 new ones. They should be in on Wednesday.

I am not going to even try the speed bleeders this time. I will just stick with the come installed on the units.

I am am planning on building a one man bleeder from a 1/4" ID hose and a mason jar with a lid. Hopefully this will make the bleeding go much quicker.

 

One quick word of caution: Since your new calipers were the problem, if you get replacements from the same store, they may come from the same defective batch. I'd carefully inspect the bleeders and the bleeder ports before leaving the store.

 

The first set I bought were in stock on the shelf, but there is no telling how long they had been in the napa store. Hopefully these replacements will not give me any trouble. I will look them over very well to make sure that everything looks good to me before I pick the up.

 

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Well I picked up the two new calipers from napa today. As my luck would have it, one had gaulded threads in the bleeder screw tapped hole. I called and the replacement should be in the morning. The two I got today have two different metal cups installed. One appears to be possibly 1/16" thicker than the other. Other than that, they look identical.

 

Picked up the replacement today, and the threads look good. It still has the smaller piston cup so I believe they were remanufactured at the same place. The casting looks really warn like it has been shot blasted a few times. You cant even see the ford logo anymore. Other than that, it looks good to me.


Anyway I got the other ones removed and the replacements installed tonight. I just need to hook up the hoses and bleed the brakes. The old ones are still hooked up to the hydraulic hoses and hanging from the springs.


Stupid question, but how tight do you guys tighten the bleeders. Is there a torque spec by chance?


Thanks,
Cody

 

Well I finished installing the caliper hoses on the replacement calipers tonight. I gravity bleed both sides and had my father in law come over and help me bleed the the brakes the old fashion way. So far I don't have any leaks. I still have a very tiny amount of residual fluid weeping from around the threads, but they are no longer leaking like they were. I believe my problem is solved.

 

Checked again this morning after sitting the night, and it has not leaked a drop!!!