I have a leak cause by a worn out bushing and i was wondering if i got a bushing from a 2007 transmission if it would fit.

 

The question that needs to be asked is "Why?"
Do you have a new 07 bushing and want to use it or is that all you can get?
Are you intending to remove one from a donor vehicle?

My past experience - when it comes to seals for anything, just get a new one based on the vehicle that needs it.

 

The 2007MY used a different transaxle for one although the bushing might be the same. Unless you have special tools/skills you'd probably damage it during removal.

 

I read there was a 'kit' for the 6F35 transmission leaky output shaft seals. The bushings are different between the CD4E and the 6F35.
Check on youtube for vids explainging and demonstrating replacing the output bushing.
Makuloco did one for the CD4E early this year. One poster reported getting a bushing replaced for $120, so do not believe someone who states 'the transmission must be removed for repair.' It may be true in some cases(the bushing has been gone, and the case half is destroyed???) that there must be a disassembly to effect repair, but not all and mostly not.
tom

 

I do know that the bushing in question is in the half case. The kit you mention underwent several changes to save cost early on because there were so many leaking. At first you had to get the half case to get the bushing as it was already install then they woke up and packaged it alone. Same goes for the two piece half shaft which you had to get but now you only get the inside piece, you must reuse the outer piece and reassemble the CV joint.

It all depends on removing the old bushing. Does the hole have a shoulder or not? Either way, you'd need a good puller, one with a expandable collet to grip the bushing is the best. A good old slap hammer with a bit might work as well as long as there is something a catch on to.

 

Bill, I think there is a video on youtube for the 6F35. Makuloco did one for the CD4E, and I think the 6F35 had more leaks out-of-the-box than the CD4E.
I don't know which of splitting the bushing or using a puller is the correct way to go, but suspect that splitting is likely.
If you watch the video, you'll see that there's not a lot to grab onto, and that particular bushing is pressed against a shoulder, so there's no room for a 'hook' to allow slid-hammer work. I think the other unit is similar, but don't bet the bank.
tom

 

Early on dealers weren't doing the job unless they had the proper tools, one of which was one for installing the oil seal. Vehicles sat waiting then they discover they already had the tool as it was the same for some other oil seal on another Ford vehicle.

I've never seen or looked for a video. If they have a shoulder, I suspect they have a special tool to extract the busing. Splitting the case just to knock the bushing out sounds like too much work. I've cut them with a chisel till they snap. Darn oil impregnated bushing like to break up in pieces and that's all one needs is a piece to fly into the gearbox!

 

We talked about this back in 2014, here's the link, makuloco2000 video on it's replacement is there, too:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ak-repair.html

From the file I created with all the info gleaned back then:

Left-Hand transaxle leak repair
Joint and Stub Shaft Assembly – for left half-shaft – Motorcraft TX 682
Ford AL8Z-3B414-B

Contains: New design stub shaft/inner CV joint outer housing, boot, boot clamps, grease, trans bushing, trans seal.

Use Loctite 648 (green color) on the new bushing before install.

Tools – need bushing remover with 5 lb. slide hammer, bushing installer, seal installer.

I have not done this yet, nor did I purchase the kit. We just crossed 50k miles, no leak yet.

 

Kind-of skipped around on the video which I don't remember watching but I "do" know of owners that have their seal replaced several times. Wonder about the Loctite 648 which takes 482F of heat break its seal! How do they do it the second time?

The puller used was exactly as I mentioned above.