Hey all,
Love this forum, Been a member for a decade, but in the 6.0 side of things when I bought a 2005 new. That truck was great to me but my brother talked me out of it last year. I came to regret not having a truck and can't really afford a new one.

I came upon an opportunity to buy an early 99 7.3 Dually extracab 4x4 with only 75 k miles on it so I got it. This one is a Lariat too. No rust, really nice. Needed a starter. Prev. Owner had trans replaced at dealer at 70K miles. Truck was used to pull a 25 foot Airstream.

After poking around on this forum I have already done the following:
I put in a 6.0 trans cooler, AIS intake, 4 inch turbo-back exhaust, and PHP hydra chip (only tried 40 hp tow tune so far-excellent). I did some preventative maint. items like oil change, rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, brake fluid, coolant charge, fuel filter, new CPS (blue one) and new tires.
Truck seems to run good, turbo has about 22 pounds of boost when truck under full throttle, and everything works. I have a ScanGuage programmed for ICP, IPR, Boost, Volts, and Oil Temp. All perimeters have been good.

I don't tow often. When I do it's a 12 foot utility trailer or a HMMV trailer both under 3K pounds.
Is there anything the experts or long-term owners of the 7.3 platform recommend I should do as maintenance or an upgrade at this point?

I appreciate the help,
Jim

 

I would deffinetly drop the tank and clean the screens a little searching will show the procedure. The hutch and harpoon mod are nice while your in there but not required.
I replaced the intake foot as well when I dropped mine they get old and brittle some people find them in pieces plus the truck will shut off below a 1/4 tank when they go. It's only 30 bucks for a motor craft one. Mine was alright but the check valve had blown out.
also look into a fuel pressure regulator rebuild. It's very easy to replace. Pressure is regulated by a spring in the fuel bowl it's probably worn/they say replace every 100k. Without a gauge you may not be able to tell but the injectors can.
A DEAD giveaway this part is done cycle your glow plugs x2 waiting for the fuel pump to turn with the hood already popped run to the bowl an listen if it's whining the spring is weak. 15 min install just be sure to have a firm grip on the parts during disassembly and re assembly

check the air filter as well they need to be maintained well esp aftermarket if it's an oiled style swap for a dry to prevent dusting don't wait for that stupid minder if your stock filter set up that's just lazy.

sure there's a few other things then you know how it is the truck will let ya know what else needs work along the way lol

 

Also I didn't see new power steering fluid just did mine very easy procedure less than 45 mins clip a hose on the hydro boost slap your drain hose on crank the motor and your pumping out while hitting the brakes and turning the wheel. Make sure to keep the power steering fluid topped so no air enters obviously better with 2 people can be done with 1 might as well or at least inspect it.

 

I did the Harpoon mod on my old truck. The hard part was bench pressing the tank back up in place afterwards. I gotta figure out an easy way for this one. I had a 16 level (yes, you read that right! Nightmare) spinal fusion since then and I don't do very well with supine stuff. The exhaust swap to the MRBP 4 inch on this truck was a pain (literally) for me. Thank you for the recommendations

 

floor jack with a short 2x8 and jack it into place. Better way is to lift the bed and do it from the top.

 

If your gong to lift the bed plan on replacing any bushings like already have the bushings on site before removal. And what condition are the support bars in that run across the bed left to right are those going to "self dissassemble" as I say when you pull it. Deff way easier access doing it that way just a few extra precautionary steps should be taken.

 

Failure prevention Thread above [read first] was very helpful learning the weak parts of Our Truck.

 

Will do power steering flush this weekend. MerconV. Hutch mod will have to be planned out when I have someone to help. Thanks guys.

 

Another good mod is the HPX crossover from RiffRaff. Very easy install and actually makes a noticeable difference in engine noise and throttle response. FRX crossover will further improve engine noise and throttle response and is easier than dropping your fuel tank. Just my 2 cents!

 

Instead of doing the HPX, swap out the HPOP lines for new updated lines and get the high flow pump fittings with no check valve. Maybe pick up the head side fittings too.

Check the fuel line next to the passenger head, it tends to rub on the clamp and leak.

 

I spoke to Clay about the HPx and the open fittings and he said they are not meant to be a replacement. The reason they're popular is they're half the price of the check ball fittings.

I'm throwing a ton of upgrades at my truck soon and I took the HPx off my otherwise exhaustive (and expensive) list.

 

So I would need HPX or open HPOP fittings but not both. Would one be preferred over the other as far as performance or ease of install?

 

Skip the HPx. Replace the fittings if you replace the HPOP lines, but I wouldn't replace them otherwise.

 

I would also suggest a 4/4 turbine wheel from Riff Raff i like mine. It is almost like the 4" ex improvement.

 

Get one of these, 12v meter that plugs into the power port on the dash.
Tells you a lot when starting your truck.


1) voltage drop when Glow Plug Relay comes on (you will know if it does not come on). Drop should go from 12.5v to 11.5 when GPR comes on. If the voltage drops below 10.5v, the truck will not start.


2) After starting truck, the voltage with GPR on, will stay around 11.5v.


3) you will know when the GPR shuts off as the voltage will slowly rise.


4) The voltage will rise to the level of output of the Alternator.... around 13.5v


5) any variation from this will point to problems with batts... GPR... Alt...etc.


Welcome to the 7.3 Brotherhood.