You guys have been so helpful in my truck search I really appreciate it. Mods if this is posted in the wrong forum feel free to move it accordingly.

My options at this point are a 2006 6.0L turbo diesel that has been bulletproofed, or getting a 2012 6.7L. There are two of the 6.0s listed in my area priced between $22K and $28K. (Specs below). The 2012s in my area (around the same mileage) seem to be going for $32K-$35K (most are stock though so I'd have to do the lift myself which obviously increases the cost).

Bulletproof HD Kit, ARP Head Studs, 8" Fabtech lift, Fabtech Dirt Logic 4.0 shocks, Fabtech Dirt Logic 2.25 steering stabilizers, 37x13.5x18 Toyo tires, 18" Weld Racing rims, Edge Programmer, Amp Research Power Steps, and a few other bells and whistles.

The truck would be towing a 9,000 pound trailer on some weekends, and my daily driver as well. The lift is strictly something I like aesthetically, I realize it offers no benefit for towing.

Ultimately I guess my question is mileage, lift, tires, etc. being equal, is it worth the extra roughly $10-$15K to get the newer 6.7L?

Thanks so much in advance.

 

So, the "bulletproofed" '06 is approx $25k with all the extra goodies, and the '12 is approx $35k stock for similar miles. If you can live with the '12 stock the price difference is only $10k, but if you want to do equivalent lift/wheels/tires you're looking at probably another $8k. So $18k difference in price. I'm not the biggest fan of how the newer Super Duties look on the outside but man are they nice on the inside.

One nice thing about the 06 is if you are financing you're also financing the lift kit and wheels/tires. With the 12 you'd have to come up with the cash for them. If you have plenty of cash that's not an issue, but it def would be for me. Or you could just drive it stock for a while and save up.

Anyway, if you can afford it maybe buy the 5 year old truck vs the 11 year old truck. Although this is coming from a guy who bought a 12 year old 6.0 Excursion, bulletproofed/lifted/etc and loves it

 

Haha, thanks for the input! Yeah that's essentially what I'm looking at. $25K and I get everything I want (unfortunately the potential nightmares of the 6.0L included), or I spend say $33K for the 2012 and then end up at about $40K once I put the lift and tires on there.

Ultimately I guess it just comes down to just how bad the 6.0L is, and how much better the 6.7L is in comparison. Tough for anyone to predict with absolute certainty though which I completely understand.

 

If the 6.0 was done properly (headgaskets, studs, EGR delete, oil cooler) I'd have no worries about the engine. But one thing I forgot to mention with the older truck is even though they may have similar miles- u-joints, bushings, wheel hubs, ball-joints, etc are going to be more likely to need to be done. Especially ball-joints with the lift and big tires. Ask me how I know about all of those things...all in the last month...

 

That's a tough one. I think it depends on how much you like the lift kit - it you really like what the guy did with the truck, it is going to save money and time having all that done. Seems like fewer guys are lifting the 6.7L - maybe bc they are already so expensive. The newer interior is nice. Better rear seats, seat belts etc. Heated and a/c seats are real nice in the top of the line. I thought about all this and then decided to keep my 6.0L. Almost all of the troubles are well known and there are good videos about them too. 6.7L apparently is very expensive to fix. The techs I have talked to say they would rather have the 6.0L and if they did get the 6.7L they would delete all the emissions stuff (which I am sure costs a bunch and may not be possible in your state). I have never had a 6.7L so I may be biased

 

Just posting these as information - not trying to talk you out of one. I would love to have one, probably wait until the 2015's are reasonably priced!

6.7L Power Stroke Problems

http://www.dieseltechmag.com/2015/02...turbo-problems

http://www.expertswrite.net/6-7l-pow...-problems.html

 

That is a fantastic point.

But the repairs will be cheaper than the lift and goodies for the '12.

IMO, buy the '12 and save up for lift.

 

Do you do any of your own wrenching?
If you do, we all know the obvious choice.
I realize it's a 6.7, but they do break down, and when they do you won't be doing as much as you would be able to with a 6.0
Still........would be fun to have one some day!

 

$10k is a big difference. Personally I'd aim for the 6.0...
As said, if the engine was done properly using OEM headgaskets then chances are higher it was done correctly. I would definitely want to see the documentation of the repairs and parts list before deciding. Nobody drops that much cash on that big of a job and tosses the receipts. If they put new heads on with the headgaskets thats $2k alone. If they put a BPD air oil cooler in thats another $2k. Anything BPD is hi $ stuff. All the other addons make the truck more attractive and all but I'd be more concerned about the engine repairs done. Either truck you go with will need regular maintenance done. I'm not a fan of any vehicle with DPF junk on it although I'm sure you can delete it. The 6.0 has lots of examples of running 500k+ miles if cared for properly, not too sure about the 6.7. As far as the lift goes, yes thats going to put more stress on the suspension system/brakes but thats just part of having any lift kit. Also the guy with the lifted truck isn't going to get much over blue book if he wants to trade it in and would take a huge loss try to, meaning you might have some wiggle room on price negotiations. The guy with the 6.7 could easily trade in at a fair shake. You'd be surprised how much someone will come down when you show up with 20+ g's cash in pocket. Read extensively on here on both trucks to familiarize yourself with both trucks and their issues. Lastly either truck you look at, never let the seller see you get excited about it if you absolutely love it, this will hurt you on negotiations, make it seem like you have another dozen trucks to go look at and plenty of options.

 

^^^ Thanks for the feedback!

Very good question. I unfortunately don't have the knowledge to be doing any of my own work on these.

 

When you say any work does that include changing oil and filters? If this is the the case,unless you have a deep wallet, I'd steer towards a gasser then a diesel. I'm not trying to steer you negetive, but these trucks require maintance to keep them running at there peak and shop time is big money these days.That includes the 6.7

 

Totally agree! No way I'd ever recommend a diesel to anyone who can't work on it. A $300 part can cost a few thousand at a dealer to replace. Oil change probably cost 3-4x of what the parts cost, and there's no such thing as cheap parts on a diesel besides a light bulb.

 

I've been around and seen quite a few 6.7s from
2011-2012 with locked up solid motors. There's one at my neighbors shop now getting a reman long block put it.

Although the 6.0 seems like an awful lot of money you can definitely do almost everything to it in your driveway.

 

I love my 6.0 and I have done or had done, a lot of the more commonly known "bulletproofing" steps. With that said, when I hear the term "Bulletproofed" thrown around (especially in for sale ads), I think BS. Most of the time, they think bulletproofing is putting head studs in. Even in the replies above it seems to suggest that.
I have been reading a ton of discussions in the last 6 months on this very subject. The biggest thing I've taken from all the reading I've done is:

1. 6.0 liter knowledge is still growing and what was considered acceptable 5 years ago is now considered only part of the job.
2. Making sure both the heads and block are flat is now considered the minimum that needs to be done. This doesn't mean putting a flat edge on them and calling it good. It means machining done to exacting tolerances.
3. O-ringing the heads is now considered the standard for considering it "Bulletproofed". Not just anyone, but someone with knowledge and experience with performing the job. Typically when this process is done, valve work is done as well as lifters. This article here UCF Machine Shop - Ford Diesel 32-valve head teardown and analysis. gives a good overview of what I mean.
The whole point of my little rant is that if that $25k 6.0 liter doesn't include or can't prove what has been done, I wouldn't consider it.

 

Agree with Torr ^. That's a bunch of $ for an '06 6-oh !!! Bulletproofed or not ~ Ya GOTTA see the paperwork!