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This sounds stupid, but it's true too.
It's on 08, V6, XLT all wheel drive.
We live in North Carolina (for a few more months) and the Check Engine light does not work. And yes, here that does fail a state inspection Normally I can wiggle fuses and wire harnesses and I get a nice bright Engine light. There car has never had any codes since we bought it new.
After wiggling fuses, and wire harnesses, I do now get a dim light, but that isn't good enough.
Have any of you been through this, or have any ideas so I can get this thing tagged.
I'd check the connector on the computer as it is 'the other end' of the wire that enables the CEL or the SES light. If the connectors to the instrument cluster have been removed & re-seated to no avail, do the same out at the computer. It is only a half-dozen screws to remove the cluster, 2 for the bezel surrounding the cluster, and then 2 or 4 retaining the cluster to the panel. There's enough slack in the wires to pull it out and attempt a re-seat. You can also check the bulb-carrier for poor connection to the plastic 'panel wiring' where it twists in place. You can also pull the bulb carrier and bulb, and re-seat the bulb in the carrier. This with just removal of a few screws. Torkx, I think, and if not, a Philips.
tom
Thanks for the reply.
I've had the instrument cluster out the first time I went through this. And it's a seal circuit board, full of LED's.
I've been checking out connections, and will continue to do that this morning before the storms hit us.
I would take a close look at the LED. As memory serves it up, the SES & CEL were lit by LED devices rather than bulbs. Maybe to 'last longer' or slow down the easy removal of the bulb, or replacing with a burned out bulb trick when doing disreputable sales.
You might be able to try powering the LED directly to see if it will glow brightly, but don't apply power for any length of time. I would bet they'd work with 5V DC. Resistors are added to the circuit to limit the current flow as the LED will flow a bunch, and turn to toast without complaining until it's done.
If the LED is bad, you can try surgery, or possibly find a used plastic circuit at a boneyard. If the LED is good, then I'd be tracing its power source, one end or the other is ground, the opposite is source voltage. Check the voltage with a VOM, and compare to any other LED's on the circuit.
tom