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1950 F4: 7.3 diesel, chassis swap, Model A hauler

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  #16  
Old 02-01-2017, 12:55 PM
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Speaking of the bed, is that bed from an earlier model. It does not have the locking latch in the rear to the right of the script. When did Ford put the stake lock in their beds?
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2017, 01:17 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
Good to see another F4 (in spirit) being saved and put back on the road. IMO, they are the right size for a usable truck. Take care of that script bed. Sometimes good fenders show up for the larger trucks. An add in the FS WTB section may save a lot of metal work.
Oh no not junking the script bed either...going to repurpose that as well for this flatbed too. Seen a few fenders here and there online, usually ends up being on the other side of the continent though. Contacted a couple guys regarding the patch panels for the bigger fenders but nothing panned out thus far.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2018, 04:30 AM
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Any progress? This is a great build.
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:03 AM
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big job has a very good reputation on FTE.big job has a very good reputation on FTE.big job has a very good reputation on FTE.big job has a very good reputation on FTE.
We stuck with the Ford frame because every thing fits like fenders
and everything else. I see your engine and body pic. sorry to say you
need to cut a square hole in the fire wall for the exhaust pipe or the
to move body forward or sheet metal will be way off. Nothing worse
then front wheels not in the middle of fender wheel wells. Our donner
was a van like yours but seems a little bigger than a C30. I don't know
but l think our's may be a P450 ish. I kept the front axle and machined
the donnor spindles so I have standard king pins and bushings. Rear
axle bolted right up to the Ford, so disk brakes all around. Next bought
the master and power brake that bolts right into the origional 48-52
Had to machine a new drag link (time consuming left & right threads)
used the donnor complete exhaust system. New radiator donnor way
to wide. Loakar shifter for the AOD tranny. Hydraulic pump where the
A/C pump was for the body. Big big problem we want origional gauges
so we zip tied the donnor gauge cluster cause there is a gazilion wires &
computors but it runs all gauges work wait to start light and all. Although
this is F7 or F8 its the much the same as F4 dimensions. sam
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:15 AM
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Bigjob, what did you doo for the engine electricals? Did you use the Power Stroke system or find a stand alone system?
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  #21  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:54 AM
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We used everything from the van powerstroke had to, there is just too much junk
to fool with. With thought I will attempt putting gauges into the origional cluster.
The speedometer is even electric so is the speed 0 on the tranny that rules out the
cable. Also seems the the gauge cluster goes in some computor thats past my brain.
I'm old school don't believe in computors for diesel hogwash. Anyways just take your
van harness everything and its plug and play. I just remembered the eng/ tranny/ all
electrical came from a plane ole F350. It will take major surgury to fit the cluster
in this year dash. Oh yea fuel tank lines all from the F350 outside frame mounted.
The only real money was new radiator water pump alternator starter and make sure
you put a new fuel pump and vaccuam pump real bitch to do with engine in there and
the nickle and dime stuff like hoses etc. but its all new. So its way better when engine
is on the floor. Our front axle build was done so the wheels didn't stick out with the late
axle. So we got a ford axle with GM spindles fits like a glove "with some machining".
By the way I just noticed a 51-52 speedometer you got in there huh slick...sam
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  #22  
Old 01-12-2018, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big job View Post
We used everything from the van powerstroke had to, there is just too much junk
to fool with. With thought I will attempt putting gauges into the origional cluster.
The speedometer is even electric so is the speed 0 on the tranny that rules out the
cable. Also seems the the gauge cluster goes in some computor thats past my brain.
I'm old school don't believe in computors for diesel hogwash. Anyways just take your
van harness everything and its plug and play. I just remembered the eng/ tranny/ all
electrical came from a plane ole F350. It will take major surgury to fit the cluster
in this year dash. Oh yea fuel tank lines all from the F350 outside frame mounted.
The only real money was new radiator water pump alternator starter and make sure
you put a new fuel pump and vaccuam pump real bitch to do with engine in there and
the nickle and dime stuff like hoses etc. but its all new. So its way better when engine
is on the floor. Our front axle build was done so the wheels didn't stick out with the late
axle. So we got a ford axle with GM spindles fits like a glove "with some machining".
By the way I just noticed a 51-52 speedometer you got in there huh slick...sam
DId you use the powerstroke rear end? or the one off the box van?
If you used the powerstroke rear then you can connect you vss in your rear diff and your spedo would work again.
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:10 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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Originally Posted by sendit View Post
Any progress? This is a great build.
Thanks! I've actually been MIA for the past almost year- done a few minor things in terms of wiring and whatnot but most of my garage time has been shifted to refurbishing my dad's 57 Chevy (gasp!). Bought it for his 65th birthday a few years back and we just need to get it finished up.

I have the primary wiring pretty much figured out and I am able to turn the motor over with key power now. Haven't plumbed any fuel to it just yet though. I have a couple of tanks that were originally on the P30 behind the rear axle that I could probably get away with using. Also though about going the original behind-the-seat tank, to keep it that way. Not sure if there are any implications with diesel being behind the seat vice the gasoline. Kinda like the original look of the filler tube/cap. I'll figure that out though.

The next hurdle will be the pedal assembly, with the clutch slave cylinder, and the clearances with steering.

Hoping to get back into the thick of the F4 this summer!
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:22 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big job View Post
We stuck with the Ford frame because every thing fits like fenders
and everything else. I see your engine and body pic. sorry to say you
need to cut a square hole in the fire wall for the exhaust pipe or the
to move body forward or sheet metal will be way off. Nothing worse
then front wheels not in the middle of fender wheel wells. Our donner
was a van like yours but seems a little bigger than a C30. I don't know
but l think our's may be a P450 ish. I kept the front axle and machined
the donnor spindles so I have standard king pins and bushings. Rear
axle bolted right up to the Ford, so disk brakes all around. Next bought
the master and power brake that bolts right into the origional 48-52
Had to machine a new drag link (time consuming left & right threads)
used the donnor complete exhaust system. New radiator donnor way
to wide. Loakar shifter for the AOD tranny. Hydraulic pump where the
A/C pump was for the body. Big big problem we want origional gauges
so we zip tied the donnor gauge cluster cause there is a gazilion wires &
computors but it runs all gauges work wait to start light and all. Although
this is F7 or F8 its the much the same as F4 dimensions. sam

I actually fit a 3" downpipe off the turbo down by the firewall and underneath. It is pretty close to the firewall and really close to the pinch underneath...that I will probably massage a bit. I did have to cut a small notch on the opposite side for the crossover pipe clearance.
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:26 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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Here is a shot of the downpipe, and battery box:





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  #26  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:34 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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And the reason for the "holdup" on the F4...Dad's 57 2 door HT 210. Even though it's a Bowtie, I'll let it slide. Hoping to get it ready for him to drive around soon and enjoy!


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  #27  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:52 PM
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If your behind seat tank is good I vote using that to keep the filler neck in the original spot. Using as much as original function I always think is great! I'm doing a 1997 7.3 swap into a 1960 f350 and I'm planning on keeping the tank behind the seat. If you ever drive your truck in cold conditions keeping the diesel in the cab will keep it warmer and prevent gelling. Maybe lol who knows actually but that's just my thoughts.
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  #28  
Old 01-12-2018, 04:58 PM
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This is the fuel return line I added to my tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuyFromGates View Post

Also though about going the original behind-the-seat tank, to keep it that way. Not sure if there are any implications with diesel being behind the seat vice the gasoline. Kinda like the original look of the filler tube/cap. I'll figure that out though.
I'm using the original type behind the seat tank on my F4 diesel build. You will have to add a fuel return line for the diesel. Great looking build you have going there! I considered using the 6.9 turbo diesel from my '85 Ford Club Wagon, but decided to go with the Mercedes. I didn't want to have to modify my cab for the exhaust coming off of the turbo and down over the bellhousing.
Mark
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  #29  
Old 01-12-2018, 10:57 PM
ThatGuyFromGates ThatGuyFromGates is offline
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Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4 View Post

This is the fuel return line I added to my tank.


I'm using the original type behind the seat tank on my F4 diesel build. You will have to add a fuel return line for the diesel. Great looking build you have going there! I considered using the 6.9 turbo diesel from my '85 Ford Club Wagon, but decided to go with the Mercedes. I didn't want to have to modify my cab for the exhaust coming off of the turbo and down over the bellhousing.
Mark
Awesome, thanks for the pic- Was there any other mod you needed to make to the tank or just the return? The more I think about it the more I'm leaning going the stock tank route.
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  #30  
Old 01-12-2018, 11:23 PM
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The return line is the only modification I made to the tank. The fitting that I soldered into the top, IIRC is a 5/16 ferrule to 1/4 or 3/8 NPT adapter fitting. I reamed the fitting thru the size of the tube and the tube goes thru the fitting into the tank to within about an inch from the bottom of the tank. The ferrule seals the tube and holds it in place. The hose you see in the photo is temporary, I have stainless braid Aeroquip hose on it now. On the supply fitting at the bottom of the tank, I have an ell and more stainless Aeroquip hose to a ball valve. The ball valve is screwed into the top of a fuel filter so I can turn off the fuel from the tank to change or drain the filter.
Mark
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