2001 F250 7.3L 330,000

Hey guys thinking about tackling the front left wheel bearing. The right was done before xmas when they did the ball joints, tie rods and some other stuff and the needle bearing was shot and I needed a new axle that side. I don't know when the left was last done and I'm thinking if the right was shot the left may not be far behind.

My question is there are a butt load of choices on Rock Auto - which one do you recommend?

2001 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly | RockAuto

Oh and I have Guzzles page to replace it, but if there's any other parts anyone would recommend at the same time I'd appreciate the advice.

 

Timken fitting your application.

 

I second this. Either Timken or OEM is the only way to go, personal experience tells me the others simply don't last.....

 

First check to see if it's showing any signs of being worn. I assume you already know how but I'll elaborate jack the tire off the ground. Doesn't need to be much a half inch is plenty. Grab the top of the tire and give her a good push and pull very hard! If you hear or feel any movement it's probably your hub but verify it's not ball joints.

One word of advice is NOT to go to a autoparts chain store! I'm with the other guys here on those options. Or see if SKF makes them for your truck.

If you feel you just have to replace it even if it passes the test be sure to hang onto the old one you're replacing "for no reason", just in case. Also depending on what brand it is you do go with you may need to reuse your studs. A vice is worth its weight in gold and I believe I used a pipe wrench to get the old ones out being careful to only grab the "dead threads" that are not used.

Good luck

 

Before installation, check the new bearing for being too tight. If it pulses (like a two wheel drive front bearing that has been overtightened) when you turn it with your hands, the big nut was tightened too much at the factory. Not something you can fix.

Also, visually inspect the needle bearings. You should be able to push them around inside the race with your finger. I have found multiple unit bearings that have had crushed needles from the factory. Even name brands.
Larry

 

Not all Timkens are made in the USA. This place claims to sell only USA. I haven't bought from them yet but I did call them a while back and they were very knowledgeable. I am thinking on replacing mine before I start RVing

https://mibearings.com/

 

Checked and got no movement. Not sure what to do now - my only reason for doing it was the fact the other side went out a couple of months back

 

I'm in the middle of the same job and still shopping for parts. Amazon had the cheapest price on Timken 515020 bearings (yours is 4wd, right?) that I could find. One supplier has them for $186 each with free shipping. Amazon also has the seal driver tool for about $75.

I assume you're doing seals, too? Northern Drivetrain has the hub axle seal, aka the two-piece vacuum seal (Spicer 50491). They also have the dust seals (Spicer 50381), stub shafts, and inner differential seals for the best price I could find.

I saw the SKF brand seal on a couple different sites but I didn't recognize the name as OEM. Do they make a good part?

 

When I am not sure about a part like that I just buy it and carry it with me if I travel in case it fails, then eventually change it. Buying it is the first step! I bought my genuine Ford water pump 3 years ago and carried it with me on at least half dozen road trips. Finally installed it last month.

 

If you have a little more time than money you can do this.

Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com

 

What are sounds/signs a Hub bearing is failing up front?

 

grinding, groaning, squeaking, noises in turns, etc. Best way to check main bearing is jack tire just off the ground and grab tire at 12 and 6. Try to rock the top and bottom in and out to see if there is play.

There is also a needle bearing on the inner side of the hub that the front axle stub shaft rides in. With hubs unlocked turn axle shaft and listen for dry bearing sounds as well as see if you have a lot of play fore and aft in the shaft. Don't worry about the part going into the axle so much as the part going into the back of the hub bearing unit.

 

Awesome video thanks. We used to check those out with a prybar on 5-tons

 

Holy Crap! That was painful to watch!!!!!

 

Not doing seals, I have manual hubs so there's no point. I've also heard anecdotally that the dust seals aren't worth the effort or money. Inner diff seals I had done before xmas both sides so that's one less thing. I like the idea of buying the part and keeping hold of it til I need it!