My 2001 4wd v10 ex with 120k needs some front end work.
The diagnosis at the local shop is:
Needs upper and lower ball joints
Needle bearing has been wearing a groove in driver side stub shaft so shaft needs replaced along with inner and outer seals on both sides.
Quote is $2500 parts and labor
Seems high but it sounds like a lot of work.
I don't doubt the diagnosis, just the cost.
I've owned ex for 2.5 years and 70,000 miles.
Trying to get it in shape for a 2000 mile spring break trip.
DIY is not an option on this.
Should I consult the local tire/service center for another quote or is this legit?

 

I was quoted about 800 or so if I remember and that was just for one inner seal leaking. Depending on where you are at the prices may vary. If I drive down to Denver I can get the gears changed and the seal replaced for around 1250...

 

How much just for the parts alone?

Does seem high, would get a few more estimates and see where they fall.

 

I have an '04 and was quoted $732 last week for all 4 ball joints and an alignment. It was in the shop for a bent drag link (out-of-control Subaru smacked into the front axle, his insurance is paying). They told me they couldn't align it due to bad ball joints. I haven't had a chance to check them out myself yet, but I have a ball joint press and can DIY it for less than $200, not counting the alignment. And that's with good Moog joints.

 

Ask them to show you the breakdown from the labor book on how many hours the jobs pay individually. Every part has a standard time allowed to the shop for removal and replacement. Ask to see it in the book for each part. Then, talk to them about how some of the jobs overlap (you have to pull all of the above to get to the inner seal and the ball joints, so they should not charge you twice to pull parts they already pulled to get to those). Not all shops are ethical. Hold them to the book, and talk to them about charging you for redundant parts removal items that should shave many hours off the charges.

Did you see the stub shaft with grooves in it? I kinda doubt that analysis. That stub shaft should never be damaged unless the hub failed and ate into it, and you would DEFINITELY know if that happened. The stub shaft is made of a steel much harder than the needle bearing. You MIGHT need new hubs, but I doubt the stub shaft for that reason.

Bring it to me, and I'll do the work for free. I have all the special tools to do this, and I go by the book (literally...it sits on the table next to me).

 

Was quoted 1200 here in Alaska. Should have paid it. Did it myself and it took 3 days on my 2000, In the auto craft shop on post. They had everything I needed. My first attempt was at the house. less than an hour I decide to take it to post. That was Friday drove the truck home on Sunday nite. That was from opening to closing. Everybody who worked there and some had their hands on it. After 16 years of being on nothing wanted to come off. My advise shop around and pay someone. 1a auto has great prices on a complete front rebuild. Find someone to do it.

 

Id ask for a break down, that is about 3 or 4 times what I'd pay. A competent shop can pull 4 ball joints in a couple hours, not sure what the manual says for it. Pull wheels, pull calipers and rotors, abs sensor, hubs, axles, pull knuckle, pull ball joints, press in new and reassemble. I mean it's a job u can do at home in 4 or 5 hours.

The grease seals are reusable if yours are in decent shape, if not depends on which ones because oem can be expensive but is recommended.

The stub shaft, pull the whole axle out of a junkyard truck for what? $100? If axle u joint looks good I'd reinstall it and keep trucking.

Aside from a ball joint press, which you can rent, there's no special magic there. Find out where the quote is coming from.

 

[QUOTE=
Did you see the stub shaft with grooves in it? I kinda doubt that analysis. That stub shaft should never be damaged unless the hub failed and ate into it, and you would DEFINITELY know if that happened. The stub shaft is made of a steel much harder than the needle bearing. You MIGHT need new hubs, but I doubt the stub shaft for that reason.

QUOTE]

I can send you pics of my passenger side stub axle with a groove in it from a needle bearing that went bad, if you want. Everything was still working fine, 4wd still working and all. I was replacing ball joints, and hub bearings when I discovered it. Ended up going ahead with axle u-joints while I was in that far, and I had to do the one stub axle anyway. I think the stub shaft by itself was about $175, plus shipping from Northern Drivetrain, I believe.

 

Well, when that bearing goes bad, things like that can happen. You should hear and feel it, though. There is a lot of weight on that little guy. The OP did not mention needing new bearings, which would indicate to me that his might have been damaged at an earlier date and not fixed correctly. All speculation until he comes back to check his thread.

 

I would drive from Wisconsin to Tennessee do the work in your driveway and be done the same day for that price. Then I would take you and your wife out for a nice dinner on me. WAY OVER PRICED FOR A SHOP!

 

Found a local reputable shop to do it just the upper and lower ball joints and alignment for $1080 including moog greasable. Still waiting on quote/diagnosis of needle bearing issue.

 

Just heard that repairs are wrapping up and total cost with alignment is as quoted $1180.
They say bearings look good so no action required.
Could ball joints have been causing intermittent rattle after bumps that resolved at next bump?

 

So the stub axle was fine as well?

 

They say stub axle was fine.

 

Just picked it up and it drives like a new truck. I've owned it for 70,000 miles and it has never felt this tight.
Out the door for $1250 with all new ball joints and new sway bar end links. Quiet as a mouse now and when I touch my steering wheel, it responds. Glad it didn't get into the stub shaft.