Thanks for looking,

I'm almost done with my rebuilt 390 that's going back into my 1969 F100. A couple questions:

-I've added headers (flow tech 12540flt on summit); will the motor drop into the engine bay with both headers installed?

-I'm using a lift plate on an edelbrock intake, rated at 1000lbs. This motor is big and sorta scary sitting on the engine stand. Bad idea to attach the tranny (borg-warner 3-speed overdrive) and stab both as a unit, right? Right?!

-how about accessories? Alternator and power-steering pump?

I'd like to do as much on the engine stand as possible, however, I'd prefer not to remove the front grill, crossmember, etc.

Let me know how you've approached it. Thanks!

 

If you have an a-frame or gantry crane then it is doable with a trans mounted to the engine. It is highly inadvisable with only a cherry picker with an FE cuz it will be very, very tippy... momentum is a bad thing. I prefer to pull the grill and core support.

Dunno about installing it with long tubes but my inkling is no. I'm all ears on the approach however.

 

Thanks.
yes, I'm using a cherry picker, so will certainly not attempt to add the transmission. It sounded unruly to me anyhow.

Anybody with advice on the long tube headers, please chime in.

I believe starter access is limited? I think I've seen some people install the driver's side but leave the passenger side off?

 

The stock 309 with the 2V carb weighed between 675 and 720 pounds. Better not attach the tranny before install.

 

We successfully installed a FE with C6 combo using a cherry picker. We needed to pull the C6 after install so I do recommend to remove rivets on cross member and replace with bolts so that it can be removed. A 3spd manual will come out but the larger C6 bell will not. I think the long tubes were on it but it has been a long time, 15+ years.

I might also suggest a rubber bushing replacement on the radius arms while the engine is out just because the room & weight will change drastically after the install.



John

 

Thanks for the help.

I think I'll install the tranny independently. I'm not crazy about testing the 1,000 lbs weight limit...

Anybody know about starter fitment with the headers?

I'm thinking ill use the cherry picker to install the engine with only drivers side header, then bolt up the tranny and starter, then give the whole unit a little lift to install the passenger side header.

UNLESS, somebody thinks that i can get to the starter with everything in the truck--headers, too.

I'm planning on stabbing it this weekend and am just trying to be prepared and minimize work.

 

I think the drivers side header may be ok but with the stater on the passengers side I had to bungee the header in place and land the motor. it wasn't that bad though.

 

I would be very cautious installing most of the accessories before putting the motor in. Too easy to damage something if it gets away from you a little.

 

I only use one of those engine tilter kind of apparatus to install motor/trans combo. Those engine plates just don't seem strong enough in my eyes.

Go ahead and put clutch/bellhousing, but leave trans for another day.

Long tubes, a PITA no matter what. Doubt you can drop motor in the chassis with them. You can't put starter on with headers on. You have to drop tubes in, then motor, then jack motor to drivers side to make enough room for starter. Then bolt header on.

 

I have the same Headers
put on AFTER motor is in and starter is in .
also be prepared to do some modifications to exhaust at collector , mine pointed right at the cross member and I had to modify my shift linkage(automatic C6)

 

2x with F~train

I had to set the headers in place first as my headers fit with two tubes on each side of the engine mount/frame perch no way dropping the engine in with them.

Also the last time, I used a cherry picker. I learned to chain the frame to the axle so it would not rise up so high since mine is 4wd and it sits up to high with the motor out and the first time had a hell of a time getting the complete engine over the rad support. Almost had to remove the pan!

And if your installing a stick tranny with out a out put yoke then best to lock tranny into two gears so input shaft turns with housing, it's easier when stabbing the input shaft by just rocking the trans. If you don't do this then how do you turn the input shaft for alinement into the clutch spline.

And hopefully you remembered to install a polite bushing.


Orich

 

Because of starter failure on my FE and using Hooker Hi Comp headers the starter can be installed. The headers will have to be loosened to remove and replace the starter but not itself be removed. Can not advise on Flow Tech.

I highly recommend using a starter blanket to insulate it from the heat. Once I did that failure stopped.



John

 

Polite, hell. Install a MEAN one!!!!

Sorry, just had to pull your chain. The spelling police were in the area......


You can install a PILOT bushing or upgrade to a bearing. I used to have the number handy, I'd have to find it.

 

Oh Busted by the spell check police got me again..

Orich

 

Thanks for all the help!!!
yeah, I figured he meant PILOT bushing.

So im going to leave the headers off, position the motor, attach the tranny, then the starter, then fit the headers.

definitely going to get a starter heat shield.

i plan on following the crower cam break in: 2000 RPM for 45 min. After that I'll change the oil and filter.

if anybody thinks I'm missing something feel free to chime in!!