So I havnt done the dizzy thing yet but did soak it in pbb and took egr off and it was filthy as ever so clean ed it and got it moving freely and also check vacuum thing in dizzy it moves when sucking vac line and I played with it when motor was running and when I suck on vac line it revs engine up and moves timing mark down to pointer or with more pressure moves past pointer so I'm guessing the components are ok cuz stuff happens when playing with pressure on lines but my timing mark should line up with pointer without advance hooked up? And I'm guess once I get that set and I hook advance to carb port under fuel bowl? To side bottom of carb port? Or the port on passenger side of carb power plate on carb?(and I just found out about this one from YouTube video didn't even see it before but it was wide open)

 

100% correct - the idea is that Fords do not (usually) use vacuum at idle for vacuum advance. With everything disconnected, set the "base" timing to whatever it's supposed to be - and that mark on your timing marks looks about dead-on to what it should be.

You COULD go a little further than that white line, but not too much, a few degrees tops.

Don't worry about the EGR at this point - I'm not even sure what that would hook to right now with that non-stock carb on there.

And yes, the port under the fuel bowl should be the one - but again, it shouldn't be pulling ANY vacuum at idle. If it IS, you'll need to bump the timing, and lower the idle (advancing the timing will raise the idle RPM, so you can then lower the idle again by adjusting the idle stop on the carb).

 

So truck is now running alot better since I lined that mark up on timing but still is idling a bit rough I think but it revs up faster now with out stalling out but it is backfiring a bit when revved hard and vac advance I'm confused on not sure about it got vacuum on ports but u said dizzy advance goes to port under fuel bowl correct?

 

Leave the dizzy alone for now. There's an idle screw on the side of the metering block - what did you set this to when you rebuilt the carb?

Holley says turn it in until it's lightly seated, then back out one turn, and start the engine. Back it out 1/8th of a turn until you get the best vacuum, but if you don't have a vacuum gauge, just see how it idles as you back it out.

I'm still not sure what to do with the vacuum advance. Once you get it idling good, if that adjustment helps, we'll figure out what to do.

Do you have an RPM gauge in the dash? What does it say it's idling at?

 

ok, found this: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...10-0-4412S.pdf

That port under the fuel bowl is NOT the one to use for the distributor.

The on one the side is. But you say you get vacuum there at idle? If so, we need to get the vacuum up and the idle speed down. You might need to advance the timing past that timing mark to do that.

But like I asked above, any idea what RPM it's idling at?

 

I actually did not adjust those mixture screws now that I think about it and I think there is one on each side of that block and when I first timed it it was idling arou d 1100 but I unscrewed idle hold screw to where it was idling around 900-1000

 

And about timing past that mark... not gonna happen my dizzy is right up against coolant thing So can't adjust lower then mark I'll take pic and show what I'm talking about cuz I'm sure it sounds crazy in words

 

 

And I probably should get sum better vac line I'm jus using aquarium air pump lines for now jus trying to get the quick fix going good so then I can jus replace lines with appropriate high heat dura or stuff cuz I'm sure this stuff isnt

 

Yeah, aquarium hose will collapse at full vacuum. Done that, got the t-shirt.

Turn both idle screws in, back them out one turn and start 'er up and see how she runs.

Manual tranny, right? If so, idle should be lower than 900 I'd think. Maybe 750-800. That vacuum port (I think it was the orange one in one of your pictures) should go to the front distributor port, but again, it shouldn't have vacuum at idle.

 

Ok will do mixture screws... and this aquarium air line is the tougher stuff that won't collapse cuz we have some of that too but it's a lighter blue color, more rubbery,and plyable which this stuff is stiff but this stuff isn't gonna handle extensive high heat for long period so it will work to get things tuned jus not gonna last.... And yes manual trans.

 

So since I adjusted mix screws way better cuz they were pretty far out and I now have them 1.5 rotations from lightly seated and it's idling pretty good at about 600-750rpm and when I rev it it doesn't back fire now I do have a squeaky pully which kinda makes it sound crappy but hey it's idling better and not backfiring im about to check timing again since it's running and that side port had no vacuum once I adjusted mix screws so I hooked it up how can I tell if it's doing anything jus reving?

 

Nice! If you "blip" the throttle really fast, and the timing mark jumps before the RPMs rise, you'll know the vacuum advance is working.

 

Ah ic well I'll have to check that when I get home on way to get air filter pcv valve and manual choke cable mine was all bent and way to hard to use so I pulled it out and jus been doing it manually under hood for now but it's time to make it easier

 

And btw what type oil do you think be best for this engine I'm gonna change that out to cuz it's due for sure cuz I havnt done it since I got it