1985 f600 forestry package (Aerial lift/chip box) project - Page 12 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1985 f600 forestry package (Aerial lift/chip box) project

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  #166  
Old 10-25-2017, 01:58 PM
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If I remember correctly, that carb kit you got was for the original carb, right? If so, the power valve is correct.

Let me ask this: If you're sitting at idle in neutral, and you gun the gas and let off, does the exhaust show any black smoke? Does the engine just rev up like normal, and not stumble? And under load, the same thing, it just accelerates and acts normal? If so, the accelerator pump doesn't really need any modifications.
 
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  #167  
Old 10-26-2017, 04:09 AM
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Folks, keep in mind the 500 cfm Holley list 4412 was designed and built as a race carburetor, not really meant for the street. Why Holley doesn't state this fact in the catalog, I don't know. Huge internal passages, big transfer slots, big jets and that 50cc REO squirter. Meant for iron head, iron manifold spec circle racing that do not allow carb mods past jetting and maybe removing the choke and choke horn. These are mall block V8s that turn upwards of 7500 rpm (yeah, it can be done).

What was on the F600/370V8 was a 350 cfm Holley that probably, based on my intarwebs snooping, had #62 jets and a 6.5 power valve. A bunch smaller, easier to tame.

Idle mix on that 500 would be easy - just adjust until it idles as smoothly as possible without loading up. Don't have the idle speed screw turned in too far, as this will expose the transfer slots, adding a butt-load of fuel. No Bueno for setting the idle mix.

Throttle tip-in is going to be the hardest to tweak. I would go down to the 30cc squirter and get the assortment of accel pump cams. Find one in the middle range (should be a chart with the kit) and check throttle response under load as well as statically.
Holley 20-12: Accelerator Pump Cam Assortment Includes 8 Different Cams | JEGS
There is a video tutorial on that page for you.

Okay, the main jets. Since you can't stick your truck on the dyno and test all day, that method is out. Yeah, revving it while stationary and looking for black smoke is somewhat valid, it's not that accurate, either. At any rate, you will be changing jets from experience. This new garbage gas we have to run makes plug color testing real hard.

Question to the OP; can you get "Farm Gas", the stuff with no alcohol in it? If so, you can set your jets by plug color testing. Get the engine warm, then take off down the road like a bat out of hell. Get into top gear, let it pull hard for 10 to 20 seconds, then cut the ignition and shove in the clutch. Let the engine quit turning as quick as possible as you stop. Pop the hood, pull a nice hot plug from either #1, #4, #5 or #8. Farthest from the carb. Try not to burn your paws while you're at this. In good light, look at the bidness end of the plug.

Black center electrode ceramic insulator means you're waaaay too rich. Go down a minimum of two jet sizes. Medium brown, try going down one jet size. Tan, where you can say it's tan, is good. If you have to guess if it's white or tan, maybe go up one jet size. White, or white with black specks, waaay too lean. Up two jet sizes minimum. BTW, those black specks are off of your pistons. Yeah.

See how this is complicated, to the point I can't just say put #XX jets in and go? I mean, the #73 jets might work but it will probably be too rich. I ran #68 jets and I think it was the brown cam in my sportsman Fox body T-bird. 9.0 to 1 351 windsor, early 351 heads, I think the manifold was about a '73 or so cast iron piece, Huge lumpy cam with cast iron exhaust, T&C Toploader 4 speed, anywhere from 4.11's to 6.00 gears, depending on the track. 3200 lbs with my fat butt in the seat. On real short bullrings, we ran the 350 cfm carb if it was allowed.

I guess I should say, I would recommend getting the blue bowl gaskets, if you don't already have one in place. Might not hurt to have a spare set (bowl and block).

You did say you wanted to be a Master Holley Carb Technician, right?
 
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  #168  
Old 11-09-2017, 07:27 AM
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Hey thanks for all the great info... Unfortunately I got busy again and had to push project to side again but as soon as I finish job I'm doing should have time to get back at it .... And a holly carb technician I will be after this haha probably a good thing tho cuz gonna have truck for a while
 
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  #169  
Old 11-28-2017, 08:32 PM
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Name:  Screenshot_20171128-202717.png
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Size:  422.9 KB is this the carb you were saying would work with the 370 ford engine?
 
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  #170  
Old 11-30-2017, 02:06 AM
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Jackpot!

Originally Posted by Diymechanicmike View Post
<clip images for brevity> is this the carb you were saying would work with the 370 ford engine?
That, my friend, is the best all around 2bbl ever made in my opinion. Used from little 255/260 small blocks all the way to 390 FE big blocks. Good price, as long as they don't gouge for shipping.

It will need a manual choke cable, if you don't already have one. Generally, just bolt it on, turn the idle mix screws in to gently bottom, then out two turns. Fire up, set idle speed, go. Choke might need a bit of adjustment, too but it's not daunting. It comes with good instructions and it is infinitely tunable. Should be good out of the box for you with the exception of trying some accel pump cam experimentation. You might need a bit more, a bit sooner for your heavy truck.

I've ran this on International SV series motors, 304, 345, 392. Ran like a champ on any of them. The 392 in my T-All needed the cam moved to the #2 screw position. That is explained in the instructions. Had one on a 260 in a shoebox '64 Falcon and a '69 390 in an F250. Very versatile.
 
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  #171  
Old 11-30-2017, 08:19 AM
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Sweet gonna place order now and yeah it's free shipping so $322 is the full price you know if my 4412 carb is worth posting on Craigslist for sale cuz I don't need it and would like to get sumthing out of it besides all the waisted time on it haha if not I guess I'll jus let it dust bunny up sumwhere til I buy a race car that needs it haha (probably won't ever happen tho)
 
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  #172  
Old 11-30-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Diymechanicmike View Post
Sweet gonna place order now and yeah it's free shipping so $322 is the full price you know if my 4412 carb is worth posting on Craigslist for sale cuz I don't need it and would like to get sumthing out of it besides all the waisted time on it haha if not I guess I'll jus let it dust bunny up sumwhere til I buy a race car that needs it haha (probably won't ever happen tho)
Yeah, put it up on CL and see what you can get for it.
 
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  #173  
Old 12-07-2017, 03:14 PM
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So got the new carb like in 2 days from ordering it luckily I'm located near Kentucky where the holly manufacture/distributor is located so she came quick got it put on and wow she started up tuned the idles screws a bit to get it to run a bit better and Wah Lah she fires right up everytime now im amazed finally it appears things are panning out for me haha gonna be taking it for a test drive this weekend to see how she drive with new carb
 
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  #174  
Old 12-13-2017, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Diymechanicmike View Post
So got the new carb like in 2 days from ordering it luckily I'm located near Kentucky where the holly manufacture/distributor is located so she came quick got it put on and wow she started up tuned the idles screws a bit to get it to run a bit better and Wah Lah she fires right up everytime now im amazed finally it appears things are panning out for me haha gonna be taking it for a test drive this weekend to see how she drive with new carb
Good to hear you're making progress now. Do post back and let us know how the test drive goes.

BTW, got any takers on that 500cfm Holley yet? LOL!
 
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  #175  
Old 01-02-2018, 07:36 PM
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So got busy never ended up taking for drive but did move around in driveway but it was running good and starting everytime..... and all of sudden old man winter came and froze everything including my progress on truck cuz it won't start for nothing no choke no gas in carb jus cranks and cranks til battery looses juice any ideas I been checking things and its jus so cold out now I might have a brain freeze cuz its has gas at carb plugs are sparking engine cranks slightly weak but i jus figured its cuz it's so cold and I do religious anti freeze checks in everything I own so not frozen up. Just put 5 gal of fresh gas in to bring up to a quarter tank so should have good explosive fuel any ideas???
 
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  #176  
Old 01-02-2018, 07:44 PM
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Last thing I did when it was running good i let it get to operating temp and changed oil and filter put a quart of the Lucas oil amendment and after I started up and ran good and next day same thing...... got cold didn't start for a week and she wouldn't start for nothing and been messing with it everytime I feel like freezing my butt off which I'm not gonna lie hasn't been to much but I did buy a compression tester the other day was gonna check that out cuz I'm lost in the ford truck world lol
 
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  #177  
Old 01-25-2018, 11:11 AM
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So nvm that last post wasn't getting enough fuel to carb having issues with keeping aftermarket inline fuel pump primed (the in-tank pump was by passed with inline fuel pump not sure why) the inline fuel pump is about 12inches away from top of tank so there could only be 16inches or so of line to keep fuel in for pump to suck but pump is only 14in above bottom of tank where I assume the line sucks from and only 3 in higher then top of tank is this jus not gonna work without me pressuring the tank via rag and hose to get fuel to pump to fill carb......should I jus fix in-tank pump or is there other options with the inline pump????? Any input would be greatly appreciated..... and btw when I got the fuel to carb via priming, the truck ran great it was jus too cold out last time I was messing with it so patience were dried up haha
 
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