38r vs s366 turbo
#2
#3
I would say that if you don't need the stock appearance of the 38R for emissions or inspection purposes, get the T4 mount setup and the SXE series of that turbo. 38R is great but "old school" compared to the new SXE turbo's and w/o knowing your decision on injectors, would say the 364.5SXE is the way to go. Check Irate for kits.
I run the 38R and it's works great overall but I know I'm leaving performance and cooler EGT's on the table. It is quite loud too. A friend recently switched to the 364.5SXE and it is awesome.
I run the 38R and it's works great overall but I know I'm leaving performance and cooler EGT's on the table. It is quite loud too. A friend recently switched to the 364.5SXE and it is awesome.
#4
I have some info that I believe could help you with your decision on this. First off hopefully your not in a area that you have to do smog, if so the bolt in KC38r turbo is very impressive and just maybe my first choice for what your plan is with your truck. It is also a step above the garrett 38r. Everyone that runs the KC38r loves it. Charlie Fish/KCTurbos is a very nice guy to talk to if you have any questions on this Turbo. Shoot him an email and he will answer back very quickly. They are located in AZ. Now, I have 2 friends that I talk to on another forum Brad, who lives close to me, and Mikee in PA. Both of these guys are just a few of whom have switched out their 38r turbo's in the last 3-8 months and went with the SXE364 line of turbos. They both love the way their trucks Drive/tow after the switch from the 38r to the SXE turbo. They both claim much cooler temps with the SXE turbos. I rode in Brads truck and witnessed first hand as to what an amazing & efficient turbo it truly is. Another one to talk to is Matt Maier/Irate Diesel. He too runs this sxe line with very big injectors and Tows with his setup, and he's pushing almost 700hp. The only draw back to going with the SXE, is the fact that you have to go to a T4 setup, and by the time you add in a Turbo, you've spent $2,600-$2700 with Gate. Or you can go drop in KC38r for around $1,600.. Hopefully this helps you out.
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#6
Insley95, check out the thread I have linked below. I had some questions about a turbo I was considering and answered all of my concerns.
Here it is... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nsmission.html
Here it is... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nsmission.html
#7
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#8
My truck is a towing beast with the 364.5sxe, even with 35s and 3.73s. Here's a video towing uphill, maybe 4% grade into a good headwind, pulling about 8000lbs in overdrive. First is the tach at 1700rpm, then the boost, then the mirror to show no smoke. I'm rolling into the throttle slowly to keep it from downshifting. I also love how much quieter this turbo is than the 38r.
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#10
The GTP38R will work just fine with the 160/30's. We have a lot of customers running that combo, and they are very happy.
However, 160/30's also go great with the 364.5sxe. I always recommend going the T4 route if it is within budget. You do not limit yourself at all, and there are so many different turbo options if you ever want to grow.
We sell the SXE line of turbo's as well as the GTP38R. Nothing bad to say about either of them, as long as they are matched correctly to the injector.
However, 160/30's also go great with the 364.5sxe. I always recommend going the T4 route if it is within budget. You do not limit yourself at all, and there are so many different turbo options if you ever want to grow.
We sell the SXE line of turbo's as well as the GTP38R. Nothing bad to say about either of them, as long as they are matched correctly to the injector.
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#13
Looks like a good plan. Any thoughts on the plenums holding 30+ PSI of boost? As I understand it some have had big problems with the OEM plenums leaking and replaced them with RiffRaff billet versions. Some have had no problems with the OEM plenums and are running them with 38R or a different flavor of a bigger turbo.
I suppose as long as they were leak free and the seals on them were good still after 2 decades you would be OK. Of course, if you are planning on 35+ PSI I would seriously consider changing them out. Perhaps perform a boost leak test just to be sure everything is working as intended.
Also, consider moving up to a 160/80 injector. I have done quite a bit of research on the comparison of the two and it appears for a few dollars more the 160/80 provides a lot more flexibility and tuning of the injectors and how they act in your truck. The 160/30 are a good choice as well, but the 160/80 seem to act like 160/30 but with more options open to you as you are accelerating up a grade towing or not.
I suppose as long as they were leak free and the seals on them were good still after 2 decades you would be OK. Of course, if you are planning on 35+ PSI I would seriously consider changing them out. Perhaps perform a boost leak test just to be sure everything is working as intended.
Also, consider moving up to a 160/80 injector. I have done quite a bit of research on the comparison of the two and it appears for a few dollars more the 160/80 provides a lot more flexibility and tuning of the injectors and how they act in your truck. The 160/30 are a good choice as well, but the 160/80 seem to act like 160/30 but with more options open to you as you are accelerating up a grade towing or not.
#14