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7.3L rebuild @ International quote

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Old 01-09-2017, 03:44 PM
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7.3L rebuild @ International quote

So I'm fixing to put 250/200s s472 gen3 hpop Sam Wyes stg2 trans. I am unsure of the actual mileage on my engine being that the previous owner swapped the cluster I called ford and they ran my vin and the truck last service was 2012 and has 210k and the current cluster reads 155k . So I'm guessing 365k possibly more maybe less . The truck has original ball joints which are still good so I couldn't imagine them lasting more than 300k so basically idk the actual mileage. I have spent around 3,000 on getting the truck ready to make some power. I did the blow by test and it isn't horrible meaning it doesn't blow the oil cap off but there is a steady stream of oil mist looks like steam. I wouldn't consider it excessive. The truck runs great . I regularly travel 500-800 miles from Texas to Mississippi for work and have done a regulated return and exhaust cai gauges PHP Hydra programmer deleted the ebp 38r turbo and almost every sensor on the truck including ipr icp map . It is a forged rod engine I checked. So I called international and asked if I pulled the engine dropped the engine off and it didn't need any heavy machine work to ballpark a estaminet . Before this I talked to parts and a full engine rebuild kit with pistons was 1,800$ . He quoted me for a min of 10,000$ !!! And that's minimal machine work and honing reusing my hpop injectors rods . ****ing insane!! So the conclusion is that I will order the international t444e rebuild kit and do the rebuild myself. I'm going to find a machine shop tomorrow and get a quote on there end. Does anyone have any ideas of what things I might do to build my engine
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by biggdirty7.3
...I did the blow by test and it isn't horrible meaning it doesn't blow the oil cap off but there is a steady stream of oil mist looks like steam. I wouldn't consider it excessive. ...
You need to ignore any visual clues you get from the oil fill tube and only focus on pressure. I did some personal observations on how my truck acted with different motor oils, both with and without the CCV mod, and had samples sent to Blackstone as well to see what difference each oil made, if any.

Some oils smoke more than others. Some oils smoke more when cold or hot, or when you get a few thousand miles on them compared to when they're new. Some oils stink more than other when coming out the fill tube, especially after a few thousand miles.

What I'm getting at is you can likely change the oil vapor you see by changing to a new, different oil. That doesn't mean the blowby changes any, just the steam.

Pressure is another story. If you've got pressure coming out the tube, oil isn't going to fix anything.
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
You need to ignore any visual clues you get from the oil fill tube and only focus on pressure. I did some personal observations on how my truck acted with different motor oils, both with and without the CCV mod, and had samples sent to Blackstone as well to see what difference each oil made, if any.

Some oils smoke more than others. Some oils smoke more when cold or hot, or when you get a few thousand miles on them compared to when they're new. Some oils stink more than other when coming out the fill tube, especially after a few thousand miles.

What I'm getting at is you can likely change the oil vapor you see by changing to a new, different oil. That doesn't mean the blowby changes any, just the steam.

Pressure is another story. If you've got pressure coming out the tube, oil isn't going to fix anything.
agreed on the oil changes the amount and the smell of mist . I have been using delo synthetic 5/40 for 10k Miles and I can definitely smell a difference from rotella t6 I can't stand the smell my truck emitted when using it . I'm going amsoil syn next and probably from here on out (found a local dealer) but what always confused me when doing the blow by "test" is if you don't block the CCV while testing most of the blow by is going out the CCv into the turbo. So I say block your ccv and then open your oil cap and try. I had minimal when the ccv was hooked up at idle but when I plugged the ccv the oil cap almost blew off . So idk man you try . Open the oil cap plug the ccv and start your truck. Tell me how much pressure is coming out . It's double or more than with the ccv open
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by biggdirty7.3
So I'm fixing to put 250/200s s472 gen3 hpop Sam Wyes stg2 trans. I am unsure of the actual mileage on my engine being that the previous owner swapped the cluster I called ford and they ran my vin and the truck last service was 2012 and has 210k and the current cluster reads 155k . So I'm guessing 365k possibly more maybe less . The truck has original ball joints which are still good so I couldn't imagine them lasting more than 300k so basically idk the actual mileage. I have spent around 3,000 on getting the truck ready to make some power. I did the blow by test and it isn't horrible meaning it doesn't blow the oil cap off but there is a steady stream of oil mist looks like steam. I wouldn't consider it excessive. The truck runs great . I regularly travel 500-800 miles from Texas to Mississippi for work and have done a regulated return and exhaust cai gauges PHP Hydra programmer deleted the ebp 38r turbo and almost every sensor on the truck including ipr icp map . It is a forged rod engine I checked. So I called international and asked if I pulled the engine dropped the engine off and it didn't need any heavy machine work to ballpark a estaminet . Before this I talked to parts and a full engine rebuild kit with pistons was 1,800$ . He quoted me for a min of 10,000$ !!! And that's minimal machine work and honing reusing my hpop injectors rods . ****ing insane!! So the conclusion is that I will order the international t444e rebuild kit and do the rebuild myself. I'm going to find a machine shop tomorrow and get a quote on there end. Does anyone have any ideas of what things I might do to build my engine
I know it sounds like a lot, but that quote is about right on. Figure in head work too, because your gonna have to have them prepped, new valves, aftermarket springs and guides, 4 angle valve job, & ARP head bolts, as well as lifters. Go with Smith Brothers or DI performance etc..
I had a complete build done last December in Texas, and it cost me $9,800 installed. No disrespect to anyone here, but I think you might want to head over to the PSA forums to get the info you looking for. They're geared a little more towards the HP builds..
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by countrycar
I know it sounds like a lot, but that quote is about right on. Figure in head work too, because your gonna have to have them prepped, new valves, aftermarket springs and guides, 4 angle valve job, & ARP head bolts, as well as lifters. Go with Smith Brothers or DI performance etc..
I had a complete build done last December in Texas, and it cost me $9,800 installed. No disrespect to anyone here, but I think you might want to head over to the PSA forums to get the info you looking for. They're geared a little more towards the HP builds..
10k sounds like a lot of $ but if you consider that the price of a newer diesel is 40k $ it doesn't seem as much. The thing that makes it hard is you can finance 40k but that 10 is cash
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by biggdirty7.3
10k sounds like a lot of $ but if you consider that the price of a newer diesel is 40k $ it doesn't seem as much. The thing that makes it hard is you can finance 40k but that 10 is cash
LOL.. Yes sir, you are right about that one. I think you can get a new chevy or dodge for 40K, but not a Superduty
On Edit: Swamps will sell you a 600hp motor for only $18k...
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by countrycar
LOL.. Yes sir, you are right about that one. I think you can get a new chevy or dodge for 40K, but not a Superduty
On Edit: Swamps will sell you a 600hp motor for only $18k...
**** I wish! If I really wanted it I could get it but that seems wasteful
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by biggdirty7.3
**** I wish! If I really wanted it I could get it but that seems wasteful
Looking back on things, if I had it to do all over again I would probably go the Swamps route, it would of been cheaper too.
 
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by countrycar
Looking back on things, if I had it to do all over again I would probably go the Swamps route, it would of been cheaper too.
I would buy a new truck before I did that . I like the **** out of a 7.3 don't get me wrong
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:20 AM
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You are correct on the blow-by procedure. You must block/plug the CCV to properly measure any blow-by. I have all the gauges and adapters/tools to measure blow-by per the manual if you ever find yourself over around Austin. Only takes a few minutes to run the test with the magnehelic gauge.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 05:44 AM
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If you are facing pulling an engine - a compression test and leak-down test would give you a firm answer. Just don't cheap out on the tools - I tried that one. OTC has all the pieces for a 7.3L... I did not buy a whole kit.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:02 AM
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
You are correct on the blow-by procedure. You must block/plug the CCV to properly measure any blow-by. I have all the gauges and adapters/tools to measure blow-by per the manual if you ever find yourself over around Austin. Only takes a few minutes to run the test with the magnehelic gauge.
sounds good how far is Austin from Huston?
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
If you are facing pulling an engine - a compression test and leak-down test would give you a firm answer. Just don't cheap out on the tools - I tried that one. OTC has all the pieces for a 7.3L... I did not buy a whole kit.
tugly what is otc?
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r
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What happend cleatus what or who got deleted
 


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