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All,
I bought a new ignition harness on ebay for my 68F250 a few months ago and it worked pretty well. However im running into a problem where the connectors in the harness wont connect very well with the ignition module (big metal part with male connectors). I was having issues with the run position where the truck would start with the starter engaged, but when i would release the key to the run position it would stall out (no power). After some tinkering i realized if i hold my ignition harness against my module i can hear a click, and the truck will stay on. Only when im holding it though.
I dont feel like paying another 40$ for a harness if mine is bad, so I was wondering what options or bypass tricks I could do. A toggle/push start would look decent and clean.
The truck isnt in perfect condition and the entire cab floor is pretty much toast so im not worried if i have to drill/modify.
All,
I bought a new ignition harness on ebay for my 68F250 a few months ago and it worked pretty well. However im running into a problem where the connectors in the harness wont connect very well with the ignition module (big metal part with male connectors). I was having issues with the run position where the truck would start with the starter engaged, but when i would release the key to the run position it would stall out (no power). After some tinkering i realized if i hold my ignition harness against my module i can hear a click, and the truck will stay on. Only when im holding it though.
I dont feel like paying another 40$ for a harness if mine is bad, so I was wondering what options or bypass tricks I could do. A toggle/push start would look decent and clean.
The truck isnt in perfect condition and the entire cab floor is pretty much toast so im not worried if i have to drill/modify.
The 1976 was the first that had "Modules" with Duraspark ll ign. modules box, unless yours was upgraded.
Or you don't know what's what your naming parts.
Only guessing here now?~ that your talking about the ign switch
Post a picture here so we can understand what your talking about to help you.
Orich
Its the switch where the key fits into. At the end of it is the male connectors that the harness plug fits into. Its that plastic plug is where im having the issue. If i wiggle it and hold it the truck will run. If i dont, then itll turn over no problem, but wont stay running.
The ign switch pig tail plug then is what your talking about. Autozone sell some of the plugs. Then some trucks had the round pin terminals the was a failure.
This is the good switch
This was the big screw up one that failed and both plug & switch needs to be replaced.
The ign switch pig tail plug then is what your talking about. Autozone sell some of the plus. Then some trucks had the round pin terminals the was a failure.
This is the good switch
This was the big screw up one that failed and both plug & switch needs to be replaced.
So from what it seems i should get a new ignition plug and switch.
Also from your pics it seems the flat blade connectors is for 75 and up, while the circular is for older such as my 68.
Is this something I should upgrade then? buy a bladed connector ignition system?
So from what it seems i should get a new ignition plug and switch.
Also from your pics it seems the flat blade connectors is for 75 and up, while the circular is for older such as my 68.
Is this something I should upgrade then? buy a bladed connector ignition system?
Yes, replace your ignition switch. From your symptoms it sounds like that black back with the terminals you see in Orich's pics is separating from the main metal body of the switch. In 1970, as of Bumpside serial number G90,001, Ford changed from the round pin to the spade terminal switch. So 1st remove the wire plug from your existing switch. Look and see if you have a round pin or spade. Someone in your truck's lifetime may have already swapped to the spade style. Replace it with the spade style. And the wiring pigtail if you are the 1st one to upgrade to that spade style. Reconnect one wire at a time to make sure all wires are reconnected to the correct position.
Note. Even if your truck has been upgraded to the spade style switch, look closely at the wire pigtail terminals and make sure there hasn't been too much heat there and melted the connector. Just a precaution here.
1968/1969 F100/750; 1969 Econoline and 1970 F100/750 & Econoline before serial number G90,001 // 1968/69 FoMoCo Passenger Cars:
The original ignition switch (C8AZ-11572-A) shorted out and caught fire!
In 1971, Ford came out with a replacement switch (D1AZ-11572-C / Motorcraft SW-1054) that originally included a pigtailed wire harness/plug.
Today, Ford no longer includes with pigtailed harness/plug, it has to be bought by itself and it will not work on the original POS switch, only with the D1AZ-11572-C replacement.
There were no recalls back then, it was up to the dealers to notify the customers if there was a problem. So, some of the defective switches were replaced, some were not.
Im having trouble finding a site that has the exact switch and harness. Mainly harness if someone knows where I can get one?
Did you look at your existing switch yet to see if it's already been changed to the spade style?
Ford part number D1AZ11572C is still available from Ford. Contact your local Ford Dealer or PM me.
Gary posted an AC Delco (General Motors) part number (PT1991) in post #9. Try local Delco warehouse or GM Dealer.
OR
Pigtail For Blade Style Ignition Switch!
Online Price: $5.13 Availability: Usually Ships in 3 to 5 Business Days PRODUCT CODE : A19881 Description Ignition Switch Harness Connector
Used With Switch D0TZ-11572A, SW944,D1AZ11572C. Ford Trucks: 100-900 Series 1970-
1 Per Package
