How many miles on that front end? Mine is leakinh at 217k miles. Both sides.

 

If it were welded that would work. I tried that idea but without the welding part. I was successful but it was very time-consuming and not pretty. If I have to do this over again in the future I will buy/borrow/build the install tool. There is no way I can see that you can realistically "free hand" installing the seal without damaging it beyond use.

The only reason I went in to do it was a dried up needle bearing. Long story but my needle bearing dried up, came apart, and jammed my axle effectively locking it to the hub for some time (probably at least a year but don't tell anybody I did that ). I got serious about it when I noticed the drops on the ground near the tire and the dark staining around the axle tube and knuckle.

The inner oil seal just keeps the oil in the differential from splashing out of the case and into the axle tube. I'm sure plenty have never had to change them. It does provide a "seal" around the axle shaft but is more of a splash guard that it is a formidable boundary. They aren't that expensive to buy but not worth replacing unless they are leaking or you are pulling the carrier out for something else, even if you were just in there.

Just my 2¢

 

280,000...but the PO had been in there once. Just not sure if he did seals or not.

Thanks Brian. That helps me feel a bit better. I have had zero leaks so far.

That's kinda funny about the needle bearings. I replaced my hubs last year, but this was a good time and chance for me to grease those needle bearings. They weren't dry but they weren't extremely well lubed to either. And don't worry, I won't tell anybody. I've made those kind of mistakes in the past. I just had to laugh at myself and then fix it LOL. Cheers! 10 more weeks and we can gawk at each other's trucks and grab a beer.

 

Which front end do I have?The tag is ilegible at this point. The plastic tag isnt. Explain that?

 

Honestly as long as you don't jam your axle back in and are careful to guide it into the carrier you probably won't have an issue with the seals.

I cried more than I laughed. When I tore it apart the right front was a mess. Parts alone were about $1200 for the damage I let happen. The silver lining was that for only $800 more I could get a Dynatrac (except for the inner oil seals everything else that got chewed up would be replaced by the kit). I go through hubs to the tune of about one a year so it would effectively pay for itself in 2 years. With the 60% "discount" I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

I'm not sure what the codes match up to but if it's the OEM axle that came with your 2002 it is a Dana 60.

 

This might help you and/or someone else out in the future. Your tags are missing so there is some data that you can't retrieve there. There is an axle code on your build sticker on your driver's side door jam and that should tell you what it was built with.

 

I know how you feel. I had to buy a remanned rear axle with only 200k miles on my truck some years ago. I TRIED AND TRIED to fix the old one with new bearings but I didnt have the experience to complete the task and or it was beyond repair, as per my post: How to replace pinion bearings and carrier/side bearings in 10.5 inch rear differential.

Tell us about this Dynatrac for the front!

 

There are a couple of companies that make "free-spin" kits for the front of our trucks that eliminate the unitized bearing. Dynatrac and SpynTec come to mind. From my research and preference I went with the Dynatrac.

Steering was lighter and the truck felt like it rolled better. It could have been my imagination or it could have been that my current hubs were probably shot. The only real modification I had to make was to the dust shield so that it wouldn't rub.

Steep price tag but it is USA made and no more replacing a bearing every year. Every 30K or so I pull things apart, re-grease, put a couple of new grease seals on, and button it up.

 

Ummmm....I dont understand....

 

I'll see if I can grab some pictures when I get back from lunch.

I actually thought about getting some round stock and making up some sets of the tools out of that vs the washers I used. That way there'd be another loaner set out and about.

 

Do any if you guys trash those dumb shields?

 

https://www.dynatrac.com/free-spin-kits.html

I seriously contemplated it years ago. I had the new hub on, rotor was in place, and I reached down to grab the caliper bolts...and I saw the dust shield laying next to them.

I probably would have put them on a shelf in my garage if it weren't for the fact that the other side was already together and I did put the dust shield on that one. It was easier to tear down the side and put the shield on than remove the other one.

 

These eliminate the sealed wheel bearing? If so, seems like a big waste of time. The Timken units arent so expensive afterall and they last a few hundres thousand miles.

 

For you maybe but not for me. Each truck has its own personality, especially after you start going down the PMS road.

I tried to keep things as close to OEM design as possible to minimize any accelerated wear on the unsprung components. Even taking that into consideration I have replaced at least 10 hubs since I bought the truck, which is about 1 per year. Not all of them had failed but were definitely past their peak. For some reason my truck loves hubs and eats them on a regular basis.

I'm not saying this kit is for everybody. The price point already puts it outside normal conversation. With my history and the damage I was looking at put me in a unique situation that made it affordable to me. It is a quality product and that is reflected in the price. I don't regret my decision. The truck handles and feels better now.

I took advantage of my misfortune since I was already looking at a hefty price tag for repair/replacement of what I damaged. $2K is way out of my league for a "good idea" but an additional $800-ish was do-able and the boss approved it.

 

You must put a lot of miles on yours. Wow. I had to change the front bearings at around 180 and 205k miles and much of that was towing boats thru dredge spoils in 4WD. Bounce, bounce, bounce....