78 f250 4x4, Dana 44. Front tires are wearing on the outside shoulders.

What most likely would cause this? Thanks

 

Front wheel alignment. (camber,toe-in)

 

If the wear is on the outside AND inside of EACH tire ,it is low air pressure. Once the rubber has been worn away, a corrected air pressure or wheel alignment will not "square" up the tire again. It will just wear at an even rate from there on out. gary

 

My first bet would be toe in........

 

Camber out of adjustment with toe ok will make the tire become cone shaped.

Toe in would wear from the outside to inside. If you rub your hand across the tread outside to inside and it feels smooth, then go the opposite direction and the tread grabs your hand, that is a good indicator of incorrect toe.

http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/...4050_291_1.jpg

 

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/imag...gnment-toe.jpg

 

Outside tread wear (front edge cupped or cupping of every other tire tread) is common in 4wd. IMO.

X2 on improper tire pressure. Front end alignment is out, in one or both directions. Worn steering box. Ball joints worn or bad, worn tie rod ends, loose wheel/hub bearings.

 

Thanks gentlemen.

 

Sounds like your alignment is off and you have positive camber.

http://www.gerrystire.com/images/suspension.gif

 

You have too much "Positive Toe" or too much "Positive Camber"

 

My 78 F250 2WD has always done the same thing. My dad bought the truck new, and he's always been under the impression that the camber is fixed...and the only way the change it is heating the beams. Several people have told him this over the years. I have a hard time believing that.

I know some vehicles have a cam in the king pin. Do these trucks have adjustable camber? How do you do it?

I bet it has 5-7 degrees of positive camber.

 

Beams do need to be bent to correct camber........camber is fixed on the twin I beams.........double check everything else before resorting to it though.......having the wrong front springs installed can affect camber.........beams do need to be cold bent, not heated.......a heavy truck shop that does alignments on big trucks should be equipped to do it.......however........finding a technician that is capable of doing it anymore may be an issue..........

 

That's a bummer. I don't know if I want to get into bending the beams.

What about dropping the I-beam pivot points to rotate the whole assembly slightly and reduce camber?

 

Check the toe-in before the camber. That one's easy to do at home.