More pictures of the progress. Had a couple of more pieces of the rear suspension to clean up and blast. After that I started of the frame and cab. I bounced around on the metal work a little depending on what I felt like doing.








This is the bottom of the frame. I cut out the old rusty and replaced with new metal. Actually the metal is period correct. I cleaned out an old pack house on the farm and found some old bed rails from the forties and fifties. I know I would find a use for them.











It appears there was condensate that sat in the insulation and caused rust from the inside.







Cut out the bad sections and replaced. I used the bead roller to put in a few grooves to help with the oil can effect.



Started cutting out the bad stuff. Most of the metal on the driver's side was bad. The A pillar had been twisted due to rust. It appears there was no care taken when opening the door which made the damage worst.







I got a new A pillar section from DC and cut the section below the hinge bolt holes. This way I disturbed as little as possible.



The lower corners were rusted through to the inside.



Used the break then the shrinker/stretcher to make the lower flange.



Installed the new rocker as well.











Used the portable blaster to finish cleaning the cab prior to finishing the metalwork.

 

Thanks, your truck looks great.

I though about changing the color, but this is a clone of my grandfather's truck that I grew up with. So, Meadow Green it is.

 

Another batch of pictures, mostly work on the cab and frame.






Had to build this section as the rust was all the way thorough.













When I cut out the rusty section of the inner cowl, I found a rats nest made with old insulation.



Had to replace both the inside and outside window lip. I could only do one section at a time as my break will only handle a piece 30 inches in length.



I expected the lower window channel to be rusty, but I did not expect the upper rust.

















This is one of the inside sections of the window lip I cut out.









Added the first coat of SEM Rust Seal. Even after blasting it I wanted a little extra protection.



Had to repair the other parts of the cross member. Basically, it rusted where it connect to the rails on both sides.













This is the front side of the cross member where the emergency brake mechanism attaches. It appears the water leaked in this area due to bad wood on the bed.



I replaced it with more of the bed rails from the barn. I had to cut a V split the rail in about three to get the arc right. Once the splits are welded back up all is well.







The area where the rear suspension spring hangers mount were also rusted. I decided to cut some backer plates and weld in to help support this area. Some of the holes were elongated, this plate allowed me weld up and drill new holes.

















I am adding a rear fuel tank so I had to remove the cross brace. The original brace was completely gone due to a trailer hitch being welded in by the PO. I got a local shop with a large break to made me a new cross brace. I welded mounting tabs on the ends so I can bolt it in.





Once completed I put on several coats of satin black chassis paint.

 

Really great progress David. Very impressive.
Yesterday afternoon I flew out of New Bern and looked down out the window to see if I can see you hard at work.
Now that I see you are near a cornfield I'll pinpoint my surveillance next time.

I'm a little ahead of you - my axles are done and the engine is resting on the frame. Also expect to have Meadow Green paint on my '49 cab any day (or month) now.
Tom

 

Tom, we have to see pictures of your progress and your body shops lack of progress.

 

Wave next time.....

It should be easy to see, Chris (guy that leases the farm) just picked the corn so it is light brown almost white for the bit the harvester spit out.

We will have to line up a meet one time you are in New Bern. Send me a PM and I will meet your schedule, at least grab a cup coffee, tea or something stronger if that is your fancy.

Good luck with the paint job. A local friend of mine painted my last car and he will paint this one as well.

 

Have been working on the truck some in the last month. I hope to get more done now that summer is winding down.




Put some reinforcing plates on the weak areas of the frame rails.



Finally got the rear end installed as well.



Had to build a frame to mount the new tank in the rear frame. I used 3/4 square tubing I had around the shop.





Got a local machine shop friend to brake a piece of 1/8 plate to use as the cap for the end of the frame. It adds the rigidity back to the frame.





Installed the front disc brake kit. I got the kit from Speedway. It was quite a bit cheaper and CPP, but it requires a little fiddling to get it installed properly.









I got the Bilstein shocks for the front and back. They were recommended by the Poise folks.





Upgraded the brake booster to the dual circuit from CPP.







Also did the rear brakes. Most of the original stuff was shot.





Now it is time to tackle the transmission.





All the gears look pretty good. The synchronizers are shot, but that was no surprise.





The clutch shaft bushings were extremely thin.



This is something I have never seen. The roller bearings on secondary shaft are loose. They have a sleeve over the shaft to stop them on the inside and a washer to cover the outside. They can out easy, but after hours of thinking I see no way to get them back in. Based on what I see they were original. The replacement bearing are in a cage similar to the main shaft pilot bearing.<br/>I plan on getting the new cage bearings, but would really love to know how they were originally installed.



While I am waiting for parts decided to rebuild the steering box and start breaking down the light for blasting.

 

Man, you are going to town on that truck!
Nice progress!
Tom

 

Thanks, Tom

Hopefully, I have cut the grass for the last time (8 1/2 acres). My goal is to have it finished by next summer. Not sure it will happen but, you gotta have a plan....

 

You're progress is fantastic!

I'm wondering how you'll be able to check the fluid level in the m/c once the cab is on? Obviously, the hole in the floor will be over the booster. But then I looked back at your new floor, and you don't have that inspection hole. So, checking from under the truck?

 

At this point I am waiting to set the cab back on for fitting. If I have enough clearance once the cab is on to remove the cap and check it with a mirror on the lift I will leave it. If there is not I will probably put on a remote lid and put the remote tank in the back corner of the cab (inside).

 

Ah. Another problem solved. And the lift makes it that much easier.

 

You're doing great work and this was the part of my build I did the most work on and enjoyed the most. Be sure to put some locktite on the bolts you used to mount the spring hangers. They won't stay on for long otherwise!

John

 

Thanks, John

I agree with you on the reassembly process. I still have some metalwork to do, but waiting for a local friend to get his Dustless Blaster setup. I still need to do the doors, front fenders and hood.

 

The "loose" needle bearings are installed by packing them into the cluster gear with wheel bearing grease, one at a time. That will hold them in place while you carefully install the counter shaft. When you get the caged bearings, make sure they will fit inside the cluster gear. I've swapped later cluster gears into early Ford transmission cases before, and it required using the "loose" needle bearings to make it all work. Your cluster gear may not have a large enough bore for the caged type bearings. - Bob