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SOME TIME AGO I POSTED MY TALE OF WOE ABOUT A GUY LEAVING ME HIGH AND DRY AFTER HIRING AND PARTIALLY PAYING HIM TO REWIRE MY F1 FROM 6 VOLT TO 12 VOLT.
FORTUNATELY (OR NOT) HE DID LEAVE BEHIND AN 11 FUSE ATO FUSE CENTER FROM PAINLESS ELECTRICAL PRODUCTS WHICH HE PURCHASED SEPARATELY EXPECTING TO PROVIDE ALLEGEDLY BETTER QUALITY BULK WIRE TO COMPLETE THE JOB.
LEFT WITH THIS BRAND NEW $160 FUSE BLOCK AND SEEING THAT SOME OF THESE AFTER MARKET WIRING HARNESS KITS RUN AS MUCH $$, I'M THINKING THAT I WILL CONTINUE HIS IDEA BUT I'M NOT CERTAIN ABOUT WIRE TYPE..SIZE..LENGTH..COLOR CODES ETC.
IS THERE ANY INFORMATION OUT THERE BESIDES THE WIRING DIAGRAM INFO PUT OUT BY VAN PELT ETC. WHICH MIGHT GIVE ME THIS KIND OF INFORMATION?
OR DO I TAKE MY LUMPS AGAIN AND ATTEMPT TO SELL IT ON EBAY OR SOMEPLACE AND START FROM SCRATCH WITH A EZ WIRING/REBEL WIRE KIT OR SOME OTHER BRAND.
I bought a nice fuse panel at a swap meet for my '49 F4 thinking I could buy wire and save money over buying a harness kit. I actually have more money in wire than what I could have bought an E-Z wire harness for. With the premade harnesses, the wires are marked as to where they go, which does make running the wire somewhat easier. I believe I will have a better harness when I'm done with what I a ready have, but it will be more work.
Mark
Looks like Painless uses color coding common to GM.
to the OP if all you have is a fuse box with no wiring I would sell it and buy a wiring harness kit. You do not need many circuits and the harnesses are not that expensive. With some basic wiring ability you could install this yourself or grab a friend who knows electrical.
I'm usually in the dents, but happened to see this thread on the main page. I used the Painless circuit block and ran my own wires. I used 12awg red for all my wire runs. I labelled each wire end to end and used clear heat shrink over the label. It worked out really well for me. There were no mishaps or wires put in the wrong spot. Also, the advantage is that you can do systems at a time, like lights, wipers and have stopping points without a bundle of wires sitting in the truck(this may not be the case for a 6v - 12v conversion, though). I ran 12awg black wire throughout the truck, utilizing ground bars at specific locations, so that good grounding was present. Whatever your choice is, good luck in this project.
Before you sell it contact Painless and ask them what it would cost to for the wires. measure length of each of your runs to have an idea of how much you'll need of each wire.
Sorry for High Jacking your post, but I've been meaning to make a post "Looking for lengths and wire gauge each parts on my '49 f-1", it may help you too. PO installed some of mine and placed the Fuse Panel (FP) at the stock location, but I need to figure out the length of FP to the front parking lights (I'm going to be running LEDs), FP to the rear tail light (I'm going to be running LEDs), horns wire (from horn button down column to FP and from FP to horns at front of grill), tachometer wire (tach to FP and FP to coil), and FP to neutral safety switch (on trans). Anyone pulling the wiring harness from a Bonus Built truck that's willing to measure the wires from Fuse Panel (Bock) to each end? or someone that have already done this please chime in?
Thank you all for your comments.
Just left a message for Painless Elec. Prod. in Texas requesting info about supplying a wiring harness for this particular fuse panel.
If it's a no go and given my level of experience, I think I'll end up selling the block at a loss and purchase a new complete kit thereby increasing my chance of making this project less "painless".
Just to let you guys know, Painless Electric Products does not sell the wiring harness without the fuse block therefore I'm left with the decision to purchase a complete new kit or purchase bulk wiring and fit it to my fuse block. Again, considering my level of experience in this area I'm leaning toward purchasing a new kit and will attempt to sell my unused Painless fuse block on CL or Ebay.
Thanks for everyone's input.
If it helps, I used this kit car wiring diagram to wire my '49 with a 351w motor as a 12v setup. I'm not an auto electrician, IT guy, but following this I was able to get it all up and working. Maybe using this and the parts you have you can get yours working.
I agree that you should sell the fuse panel and buy a new complete wire harness that will fit the needs of the truck. That way you will have the schematic diagram and the correct gauged wires for the fuse panel and to the different systems, lights, ignition, brake lights and so on) that are needed. Also they will tell you about fusing the main power lines from the battery.
I have wired a few cars in the past including my 50 F1. When I first wired my 50 I had a good friend that was an electrician who helped me on my first attempt. The first thing he had me do was to lay out a diagram to where the wires were to go and the gauge size of wire needed. Without his help I do not think it would have gone so well. This was before there were auto electrical wiring system were available. I have used both American Autowire and Painless systems with success.
I like others have used the same color of wire for many different systems on my very first wiring project and the worked out fine until there was a short and having to trace the wires back to find the problem. On that note be sure to use plastic zip ties to bundle the wires and any time when going through sheet metal use rubber grommets to protect the wires. Mike
12-25-2016, 01:54 PM
what you are saying.
