Heads torqed now rockers & push rod???
#16
Once you adjust the valves you will need to set the distributor.
You are correct on the distributor setting. I put a piece of rag in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over with the starter. When the rag pops out (it will be loud, can't miss it) then you are on the #1 compression stroke. Then rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing tab and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. If the distributor does not seat all the way because it did not fit into the oil pump drive then bump the engine or rotate by hand until the distributor falls all the way into place. install distributor hold down snug but so you can still turn the distributor. Then adjust the timing once the engine is fired.
You are correct on the distributor setting. I put a piece of rag in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over with the starter. When the rag pops out (it will be loud, can't miss it) then you are on the #1 compression stroke. Then rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing tab and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. If the distributor does not seat all the way because it did not fit into the oil pump drive then bump the engine or rotate by hand until the distributor falls all the way into place. install distributor hold down snug but so you can still turn the distributor. Then adjust the timing once the engine is fired.
#17
Here's how you do it. Do you see those quotation marks to the right of the word and icon quote? When you want to quote the first person hit the quotation marks, then go to the next post you want to quote and do the same. At the final post you want to quote, hit the quote icon and all the quotes will show up at your post. Try it!
#18
Once you adjust the valves you will need to set the distributor.
You are correct on the distributor setting. I put a piece of rag in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over with the starter. When the rag pops out (it will be loud, can't miss it) then you are on the #1 compression stroke. Then rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing tab and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. If the distributor does not seat all the way because it did not fit into the oil pump drive then bump the engine or rotate by hand until the distributor falls all the way into place. install distributor hold down snug but so you can still turn the distributor. Then adjust the timing once the engine is fired.
You are correct on the distributor setting. I put a piece of rag in the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over with the starter. When the rag pops out (it will be loud, can't miss it) then you are on the #1 compression stroke. Then rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing tab and install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. If the distributor does not seat all the way because it did not fit into the oil pump drive then bump the engine or rotate by hand until the distributor falls all the way into place. install distributor hold down snug but so you can still turn the distributor. Then adjust the timing once the engine is fired.
#19
Thanks for your input Art, I'm not sure mine will go back together just right either but we will see, my history of not getting things right the first time, kinda proceeds me
Well how about that, I've only been on the board for 10 years now, I'm a little slow LOL. Thanks Abe.
Well how about that, I've only been on the board for 10 years now, I'm a little slow LOL. Thanks Abe.
#20
Just an update. The push rod length suggested by Edelbrock seem to fit perfect, the rocker roller tips hit the valve stem tips, dead center. As for the rocker set up goes, I think I finally got the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, this way I plan on doing both I & E one cylinder at a time. I got #1 done now ,and I made a little temp degree wheel made out of a coffee can lid so I can attach to the crank pulley and rotate the motor 90 degrees at a time to do the I&E on the next cylinder in the firing order, then the next, and the next until done. Im using a drill to keep things oiled up as I go, plus removed the radiator fan which is making the whole process much easier. Im learning a lot and appreciate all your help.
#21
#22
Foolproof way I adjust valves.
Wrap the balancer with masking tape so you can write on it.
Pick one valve. Turn the engine over with a ratchet by hand until the pushrod is all the way up. Mark the balancer where it lines up with the zero on the timing tab. Turn the engine over 360 degrees until the marks line up again, now that cam lobe is on the base circle. While adjusting the rocker nut tap the rocker up and down on the pushrod. When the tapping noise stops go 1/4 turn further on the rocker nut and lock it down, and then move to another valve. Takes some time but works slick. No need to pre-oil again until the engine is complete, but I would mark all of the pushrods and watch them while turning the engine over by hand to make sure they are all turning. I dont trust myself with the EIOC method
Wrap the balancer with masking tape so you can write on it.
Pick one valve. Turn the engine over with a ratchet by hand until the pushrod is all the way up. Mark the balancer where it lines up with the zero on the timing tab. Turn the engine over 360 degrees until the marks line up again, now that cam lobe is on the base circle. While adjusting the rocker nut tap the rocker up and down on the pushrod. When the tapping noise stops go 1/4 turn further on the rocker nut and lock it down, and then move to another valve. Takes some time but works slick. No need to pre-oil again until the engine is complete, but I would mark all of the pushrods and watch them while turning the engine over by hand to make sure they are all turning. I dont trust myself with the EIOC method
#23
#24
#25
#26
Foolproof way I adjust valves.
Wrap the balancer with masking tape so you can write on it.
Pick one valve. Turn the engine over with a ratchet by hand until the pushrod is all the way up. Mark the balancer where it lines up with the zero on the timing tab. Turn the engine over 360 degrees until the marks line up again, now that cam lobe is on the base circle. While adjusting the rocker nut tap the rocker up and down on the pushrod. When the tapping noise stops go 1/4 turn further on the rocker nut and lock it down, and then move to another valve. Takes some time but works slick. No need to pre-oil again until the engine is complete, but I would mark all of the pushrods and watch them while turning the engine over by hand to make sure they are all turning. I dont trust myself with the EIOC method
Wrap the balancer with masking tape so you can write on it.
Pick one valve. Turn the engine over with a ratchet by hand until the pushrod is all the way up. Mark the balancer where it lines up with the zero on the timing tab. Turn the engine over 360 degrees until the marks line up again, now that cam lobe is on the base circle. While adjusting the rocker nut tap the rocker up and down on the pushrod. When the tapping noise stops go 1/4 turn further on the rocker nut and lock it down, and then move to another valve. Takes some time but works slick. No need to pre-oil again until the engine is complete, but I would mark all of the pushrods and watch them while turning the engine over by hand to make sure they are all turning. I dont trust myself with the EIOC method
#27
Rockers done, took me about an hour once I started. I picked up a TDC indicator tool (that screwed into each spark plug hole) that wasn't really needed but it did allow me to watch the indicator rise and fall with the piston, and I could here the hiss of the escaping air on the compression stroke which just verified I was where I thought I was stroke wise. Then rotated engine with starter several cycles to check results.Now for re-assembly. Wow,I didn't realize how dirty that oil was/is.
#28
#29
Thank you Dan for the kind words, and the warm Holiday greeting. When it comes to getting the motor put back together and hearing it run I'm with you. My camera takes video but so far I haven't had any luck transfering it over to FTE. I did read in someone's post that it must be in a certain format. If any one knows the proper procedure to get video over to FTE Id love to hear how. The TimeLine for my completion depends on the weather, its currently been around freezing during the day, which is too cold for my RA to tolerate. I know, I know, I can hear you guys that live where its 30 below laughing at me rite now, and I don't blame you, I guess I've turned into a woose as I get older. Any how once I get back out in the garage it shouldn't take much to finish, its just a little cleaning then re-hooking everything back up, headers, fan, intake manifold, a couple wires, vacuum lines, fuel lines, carb, and radiator hose, distributer, etc. Well like Dan I hope all had a wonderful Christmas, and will have a safe , blessed New Year. ROCKING ON the FTE way.
#30
Update, almost done. Typically Me, it has taken me 4 months to do a weekend job, At this point I'm just waiting for new radiator hoses, one valve cover gasket, and the proper valve cover hold down bolts that wont strip out the aluminum threading after a few uses (the ones I have now). Edelbrock offers some that have a threaded stud that stay in place on the head so you drop the covers onto them and then thread the T handles onto the studs, much better set up, I ordered 3 sets which =12. Well that's it until I'm done, Im just checking in. I hope you all are doing well and making progress on your projects, either working if weather permits, or finding the parts of your dreams for when spring hits. Ill catch you later.