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  #1  
Old 12-12-2016, 08:09 PM
oceantrav
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New 2011 6.2 issues/questions

Picked up a 2011 F250 extened cab, 8ft bed, XL, with the 6.2 and 149K miles.

Couple questions:

Stopped at a gas station, it acted like it was full, would only take .1 gallons before the pump would act like it was full. Forced about 3 gallons in and gave up. 40 Miles later it said 9 miles to empty so stopped again. This time the gas station would give about a gallon before acting like the tank was full, so forced 20 gallons in. Why is my tank acting like its full? Is something clogging it?

Second, looks like this truck was well used. Rides real rough with a lot of noise over bumps. Assuming the shocks are shot along with other stuff maybe? Any advice for things to look for? Going to take it to a shop tomorrow hopefully, would prefer not to get ripped off.

the tip of the exhaust is hanging, looked like what ever bracket was there broke off. So plan on taking it to a muffler shop. What do most people do for better sound, cheaply? Had a 2013 F150 and brought it to a local shop and they cut out the old muffler and welded in a flow master for $150 total and sounded good.

Lastly, want to put 35'' tires and 20'' wheels. Will this combo fit easily? Do I need to have a certain offset?

thank- Matt
 
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:06 PM
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With the tank filling questions look at the filler hose where it goes over the frame to see if it's collapsed.

I'm just guessing with that kind of mileage it needs ball joints and a few other parts in the front end along with shocks and brakes.

When I buy a truck with that kind of miles it gets all the fluid changed so I know they are all new and ready for it's new life. The last thing I would do is dress it up before I knew everything mechanical is in good shape.

Personally I like the stock sound.

Denny
 
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:10 AM
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I agree with RVPuller.

the gas tank vent hose is blocked somehow... bug nest. mud. mud dobber insects.
as for noise.. shocks, tie-rod ends. ball joints.

my 2012 XL 250.. has the camper and trailer tow packages.. so Hard as a rock empty.

fyi. my 2012 has 150,000 miles and has all of its original suspension and steering parts. so look for other Loose parts/pieces.. exhaust/under body panels.

Exhaust.. I tow.. so Stock is fine..
Noise just gives you a head pain between the ears. any maybe a ticket.
(2) Fyi... I used to race cars and motorcycles (amateur).. NO mufflers.. so damaged hearing.. from you know what.! You do not want this. trust me.
 
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:20 AM
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Thanks for the replys thus far.

in terms of fluid, what fluid would you recommend me replacing? Was planning on the oil, and trans fluid today.

For the rough handling, what kind of prices and I looking at? I see the ball joints at a shop can be $800-$1200. How about shocks and other things? Just trying to avoid being ripped off, or paying for things not needed.

My buddy is a body guy and gave me the name of a guy that owns/works at a tire and break place, so hopefully I won't get ripped off. Plan on bringing it there today.
 
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by oceantrav
Picked up a 2011 F250 extened cab, 8ft bed, XL, with the 6.2 and 149K miles.

Couple questions:

Stopped at a gas station, it acted like it was full, would only take .1 gallons before the pump would act like it was full. Forced about 3 gallons in and gave up. 40 Miles later it said 9 miles to empty so stopped again. This time the gas station would give about a gallon before acting like the tank was full, so forced 20 gallons in. Why is my tank acting like its full? Is something clogging it?

Second, looks like this truck was well used. Rides real rough with a lot of noise over bumps. Assuming the shocks are shot along with other stuff maybe? Any advice for things to look for? Going to take it to a shop tomorrow hopefully, would prefer not to get ripped off.

the tip of the exhaust is hanging, looked like what ever bracket was there broke off. So plan on taking it to a muffler shop. What do most people do for better sound, cheaply? Had a 2013 F150 and brought it to a local shop and they cut out the old muffler and welded in a flow master for $150 total and sounded good.

Lastly, want to put 35'' tires and 20'' wheels. Will this combo fit easily? Do I need to have a certain offset?

thank- Matt
You got good advise on the fueling problem.

Are you use to driving a 3/4 ton truck? Maybe the ride is fine. What spring package do you have? How is the steering? The stock shocks are nothing to brag about, and I would say used up at 150k. A lot of people like the bilstiens, and get good results with them.

A cheap exhaust that sounds decent is a simple muffle delete. Very common on here. Simply loosen the clamp in front of the muffler and unhook the exhaust hangers on the muffler and tailpipe. You can you tube 6.2 muffler delete and hear several. I would recommend a short peice of pipe and turn down to eliminate some of the in cab drone. It's not extremely loud with the resonators left on. I've put my muffler back on because I tow often and the noise gets old, but I'm removing the second resonator and replacing with a straight pipe. This is the way the regular cabs come factory. Just a touch louder.

The 35's will clear stock. On a factory wheel, you will rub the radius arms pretty hard a full lock. Minor trimming/pulling back liners may be required. Wheel offsets of @+18 - -12 there will require heavy trimming, but no rub on the radius arms. Anymore offset, body damage is likely. Just put a 2.5 level kit on and have no worries with a 35. The better size to use is a 295/70r20 which will be e rated and hold 80psi. It is just over 35" tall and just over 12" wide. Good luck and enjoy the truck.

Edit:I assumed your 4x4
 
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Old 12-14-2016, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for the response. Yes my truck is 4x4.

So took it the shop, one of the rear shocks is a little be nt. So going to order new ones and he'll install for $75.

buddy got out and stepped on the step board an it was real loose. It had been cluncking and I contributed that to driving like crap. Fixed that now almost all is good.

just offered some 35/12.5/20 tires, the rims are -19 offset, what size leveling kit on the front do I need to avoid rubbing?

Originally Posted by Ron94150 View Post
You got good advise on the fueling problem.

Are you use to driving a 3/4 ton truck? Maybe the ride is fine. What spring package do you have? How is the steering? The stock shocks are nothing to brag about, and I would say used up at 150k. A lot of people like the bilstiens, and get good results with them.

A cheap exhaust that sounds decent is a simple muffle delete. Very common on here. Simply loosen the clamp in front of the muffler and unhook the exhaust hangers on the muffler and tailpipe. You can you tube 6.2 muffler delete and hear several. I would recommend a short peice of pipe and turn down to eliminate some of the in cab drone. It's not extremely loud with the resonators left on. I've put my muffler back on because I tow often and the noise gets old, but I'm removing the second resonator and replacing with a straight pipe. This is the way the regular cabs come factory. Just a touch louder.

The 35's will clear stock. On a factory wheel, you will rub the radius arms pretty hard a full lock. Minor trimming/pulling back liners may be required. Wheel offsets of @+18 - -12 there will require heavy trimming, but no rub on the radius arms. Anymore offset, body damage is likely. Just put a 2.5 level kit on and have no worries with a 35. The better size to use is a 295/70r20 which will be e rated and hold 80psi. It is just over 35" tall and just over 12" wide. Good luck and enjoy the truck.

Edit:I assumed your 4x4
Th
 
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Old 12-14-2016, 01:52 PM
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2 or 2.5 will do the trick. Lots of choices out there. I personally like the ready lift. It uses coil spring spacers, shock extension brackets, sway bar drop brackets, and taller rear factory style blocks. These trucks come almost level, so most leveling kits lift the rear 1.5/2". It also comes with a trac bar drop bracket to keep your front geometry correct. Check to see if you have a 1 piece or two piece rear drive shaft. There are two kits, 1 of them comes with a carrier bearing shim for the 2 piece driveshaft trucks. There are better options, like carli, but the ready lift is the best bang for the buck in my opinion, that does it correctly anyway.

Another option is since your buying new shocks, go ahead and buy shocks for a 2" lift so you don't need the shock extensions. Buy some coil spacers and an adjustable trac bar. Don't lift the back and you got that stupid dragging your azz around look that some people like. You can just get some f350 blocks for the rear to fix that.
 
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:15 AM
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Thanks for the great response. When I search ready lift 2 or 2.5 level kit a lot of different kits pop up.

Is this one on amazon for $160 what I'm looking for? Or does that do nothing to the rear?


https://www.amazon.com/ReadyLift-66-2095-Leveling-F250-F350/dp/B001AEFJYM

Originally Posted by Ron94150 View Post
2 or 2.5 will do the trick. Lots of choices out there. I personally like the ready lift. It uses coil spring spacers, shock extension brackets, sway bar drop brackets, and taller rear factory style blocks. These trucks come almost level, so most leveling kits lift the rear 1.5/2". It also comes with a trac bar drop bracket to keep your front geometry correct. Check to see if you have a 1 piece or two piece rear drive shaft. There are two kits, 1 of them comes with a carrier bearing shim for the 2 piece driveshaft trucks. There are better options, like carli, but the ready lift is the best bang for the buck in my opinion, that does it correctly anyway.

Another option is since your buying new shocks, go ahead and buy shocks for a 2" lift so you don't need the shock extensions. Buy some coil spacers and an adjustable trac bar. Don't lift the back and you got that stupid dragging your azz around look that some people like. You can just get some f350 blocks for the rear to fix that.
 
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:51 AM
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That links not working for me, but at that price, that's probably just the coil spacers. Definitely not the kit with the rear lift or the trac bar drop bracket. Probably doesn't have the shock extensions or sway bar drop brackets either.
 
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:52 AM
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Go to ready lifts site and find the kit you want. Use the part number for that kit to find the best price.
 
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:30 PM
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link works just fine if you copy paste it, but thats only a leveling kit, not a lift kit and its only for the front coils.

if I remember right there are a few guys on here with 35's under the stock truck, but the leveling kit would be nice if you have a rake to your truck, my truck sits level stock.
 
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:31 PM
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Suspension lift kits for 2011 - 2016 Gas F250's

Suspension lift kits - Ford F250
 
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tarster
link works just fine if you copy paste it, but thats only a leveling kit, not a lift kit and its only for the front coils.

if I remember right there are a few guys on here with 35's under the stock truck, but the leveling kit would be nice if you have a rake to your truck, my truck sits level stock.
I use the app, it doesn't allow me to copy and paste.

A lot of guys are running 35's on stock height trucks, but not with a -19 wheel offset. That would be major rubbing.

Edit:thanks to this, I've figured out how to copy and paste while using the app
 
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Tarster View Post
Suspension lift kits for 2011 - 2016 Gas F250's

Suspension lift kits - Ford F250
Thanks for that link, shows a lot of options.

i have my wheels at the house all ready, and I was going to put them on tomorrow and see how they do. If they are going to rub really bad, should I wait till I get a lift?

with a -19 offset what is the smallest lift I can go with that will work? I want the truck low as possible.

would this 2" lift work:

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/lift-kits/suspension/ford/4wd/f250/2011-15-gas/k1008-sl.html?c=287&i=0

Also, if I get this, what sort of shop should I bring it to in order to be installed? And what price am I looking for in labor?

thanks for all the help guys
 
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Old 12-18-2016, 09:10 PM
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Threw the wheels on real quick tonight before ordering a lift. No rub at all...

Pics attached.
 
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