Hey all

I'm looking at getting my tie rod ends + boots replaced. The boots are blown apart and I'm sure they're wearing. We haven't been driving the truck hardly at all for months, but it was pretty clear from this post that they need to be swapped for new.

So, I want to make sure I am getting the right parts. I've done a bit of research on RockAuto but thought I'd get a confirmation here before I pull the trigger.

I'm considering:

• MOTORCRAFT MDOE11 {#E9TZ3304F} front, RWD, OE design
• MOTORCRAFT MDS1017 {#2U2J3270BA, E9TZ3V130D, WRE1503} front left, RWD
• MOTORCRAFT MEOE141 {#FOTZ3A131B} front left outer, RWD, OE design
• MOTORCRAFT MEOE95 {#E9TZ3A130D} front left inner, RWD, OE design

Total $291.16

VERSUS

• MOOG ES2078LT left outer, rwd
• MOOG DS1017T left inner, rwd
• MOOG DS1073 {#E5TZ3304C, E8TZ3304B, E9TZ3304G} right inner, rwd, from 4200 lb axle
• MOOG ES2396R {#E5TZ3A131E, E9TZ3A131G} right outer, rwd, from 4200 lb axle

Total 184.16

I'll need to pick up a few items too.

• A grease gun.
• Considering they existing boots are all shot, I'll grab extra grease too.
• I need a set of heavy duty jack stands, so I'll grab the 6-ton pair when I swing by HF for future truck work.
• I may pick up a floor jack, as the truck didn't come with one, but it appears I can do all the tie rod work without raising the truck? Is that the ideal way to keep the wheels in a single position?

Last questions

• What size boots do I need? I don't see sizes listed anywhere on the replacement tie rod ends nor on the boots product info.
• Do the boots always come in mismatched pairs of different sizes (such as 5/8 and 3/4)? I assume that is a set for inner/outer?
• Do I also need the tie rod end adjusting sleeves?
• Am I missing anything else?

 

Oh, ha! Forgot the basics. 1989 F350 Crew Cab long bed w/ 460 + manual.

 

You don't need to raise the truck to do the steering work.

You might consider getting the taller jack stands, I have the smaller ones and my jack can lift the truck about 4" higher than the highest setting on the jack stands.

I got the harbor freight pistol grip grease gun and it works great. I think it was $17.

If you don't have one, a 4lb sledge and a 2lb ball peen would be good to have for "massaging" things out ($6 and $5 at harbor freight). Penetrating oil also. And IIRC, the castle nuts for the tierod ends are 11/16 or 13/16 (actually they're probably metric? but I had to use sockets from my "large" impact set to remove them).

 

Here's a link for some more information. It includes the tie rod end boots --> Energy 9.13101G.

Your motorcraft part numbers match the info on the link except for MDS1017 --> but I'd trust your parts you looked up before the webpage.

1983 Ford Bronco Diagrams picture | SuperMotors.net

 

I picked up the grease gun, bulk grease & have the boots inbound. I'd like to replace the rod ends too, but I'll get the boots done at least while I'm waiting for some cash to come in. I bought a pair of 6-ton jack stands as well.

 

Alright, I am ready to have a look at the steering parts now. I need to see if the outer rod ends are toast (expecting that for sure) but also if I need the longer inner ones.

I see a bunch of surface rust on both outers, but minimal on the inners. Should I be sanding and painting anything along the way here?

 

I think you may be confused about how these parts are shipped and assembled. A boot comes on all the parts with a pivot joint(some exceptions). What new parts do you have in your posession?

If you're planning to replace the 4 items you've listed above, you're only 2 adjusting sleeves away from all new parts. I would get them cause they're cheap. If yours aren't too rusty, you might want to re-use them.

You won't have to sand and paint anything if it's all new.

You can check the old parts first by having someone wiggle the tire left to right(jacked up on stands), while you inspect each joint. Can be done w/o assistance but, easier with.

 

@Willigaf
I am going to take the outer tie rod ends off the mounting point and have a look at them. I am guessing they are shot, but I don't know if the inner ones are toast or not. They generally look much better than the ends.

I was thinking if I replace everything - no problem. But if I replace just the outer parts, should I take the time to re-paint the inner ones? Does it protect anything appreciably? I'm in TX - we don't get ice on the roads very often, and rust underneath is not nearly the problem it is in other parts of the country.

 

I should have picked up on your location haha. I'll put it to ya this way, if you're taking everything OUT to replace the 2 ends, a few quick coats of paint to freshen it up will look great. With the road conditions there, sounds like it will only be for your peace of mind and not to stop rust in the foreseeable future. Mine have always been rusty until last week when all new parts went on.

 

Well, I took a quick shot at the tie rod ends today. Specifically, the one on the passenger side first. When taking the wheels off after jacking the truck up & putting it on the heavy duty stands I got, I noticed a LOT of play left to right on both wheels. Hands at 9 and 3, I was able to pivot the wheel a good inch toward the center in the front. Not sure if that's horrible or normal, but I'm guessing I should not have that degree of sloppiness.

That said, I was not able to remove the passenger side outer tie rod end. I got the cotter pin and castle nut off easily enough, but that end did NOT want to budge otherwise. Do I need to remove the pitman arm portion before I do each side, or should I be able to separate any given piece fairly easily? I realize it's going to be rust-welded but I actually split a piece of 2x4 scrap I used to protect the threads while trying to dislodge the rod through that mount with a hammer. Perhaps I should pick up a pickle fork?

 

Yeah you really nred to move closer LOL just kidding yeah a pickle fork would help alot. But you could also use 2 hammers strike the part that holds the tierod end on the sides opposite of each other and that will shock it enough it should fall out. You may have to do both pickle fork and hammers lol depends on how stuck it is. I have air hammers with the pickle fork that makes short work of it but some get stubborn.

 

I have done a few of these old Ford front ends, not with big block engines but what I do know is that a guy has to put his purse down and hit that SOB with all you've got ( just don't miss and whack your knuckles ) Just when you are ready to give up, hit it a few more times and it'll pop free. I have found the worst wear to be in the lower ball joints on these trucks. Drag link and tie rods seem to hold up well over time in my experience( small blocks though) You should be able to tell if you just grab the tie rod itself and drag link and give it a hard wiggle , there shouldn't be much play in the ball ends. You could be feeling slop in the power steering gear if you are wiggling the wheels themselves.

 

@roboto65
Having the right tools is a good first step for me. lol I tried two hammers doing exactly what you described and got nada. But I didn't want to beat the hell out of the threaded post and couldn't hold the 2x4 scrap & 2 hammers simultaneously.

@Badlildoggy
Yeah, I know I need to give these things a hard hit, but this thing is also more than half my age. Hitting it too hard = breaking it. hahahah

I can say that greasing the joints (blown apart seals & all) definitely made a HUGE improvement in the groaning/whining coming from the steering assembly. A whole lot of jet black super thick dried grease goo came out of the seals until the nice new clean stuff made it out. I drove it this afternoon and it is WAY better already.

I also ordered the pickle fork / ball joint separator today so I should be able to work on it this week and see if the tie rod ends are toast or not. Based on the noise level change today, it's possible they're OK. This truck has spent more time sitting than anything else for the past 7-8 years now. That can't be too hard on joints like these, compared to the punishment of the road can it?

 

the 2x4 is actually working against you, absorbing almost all of the energy of the hammer blows. the pickle fork or other ball joint separating tool will work much better.

 

You will wreck the boots with the pickle fork, most likely. There is a jawed tie rod separator available. But I don't think you should take them out and put them back in, if I understand you right. If the slop is noticeable, they are worn out. if you can add some pics, maybe I'm missing something. I just replaced all this on a 4wd, and maybe a couple pieces are different.