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1975 f250 4x4 looking for some advice

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Old 11-28-2016, 11:37 AM
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1975 f250 4x4 looking for some advice

I've looked at alot of threads on here, and finally decided to post one to see if I could get some advice from those that know more than I do, since I don't know alot about these trucks and have never really been a Ford guy. I've always gravitated towards older chevys,and know more about them than fords. Recently i made a deal with my dad to purchase his 1975 f250 4x4. this truck will need quite a bit of work to get it road worthy again. the cab needs rockers, cab corners and floor boards. the bed is either going to require a few repair panels or I might look for a bed in better condition. The truck is actually a present for my wife, because she has always wanted an older truck. my plan is to do a total restoration on the truck, and drive it regularly and use it to haul a livestock trailer occasionally . I'm looking forward to this project, because the truck means alot to my dad, and I have memories of driving it as a teenager. I'm sure I'll learn alot along the way.

The truck has a 360, and I believe a c6 transmission. I'll have to verify what the transmission is for sure. my question is, with what we plan to use the truck for, would I be better off to rebuild the 360, upgrade to a 390, or replace it with something else entirely? I'm not looking for something that makes big horsepower, just something that will haul a 20' gooseneck livestock trailer with a load of cattle or horses.I also understand that whatever I do, gas mileage isn't going to be the greatest, but I'm OK with that. also because my wife will be driving it, I'm a little concerned with braking power. I've seen conversion kits advertised to put disk brakes on the front axle. has anyone ever used these and are they worth it? Or am I better of to find a later model year front axle to swap out. I know the closed knuckle front end this truck has, has its drawbacks, and I've heard 78 and 79 are the preferred model years to source the front axle from for this. although I'm not that concerned with strength being a problem, because when my dad was using the truck he used it hard and never had any problems. I'm sorry if this rambled on,and thanks in advance for any advice you might be able to give me.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 04:38 PM
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Most came with front disc brakes stock I thought, don't quote me on that though. I'd go with a 390, there is so little difference, I think you can bore your 360 block form 3.28 to 3.5 and build the engine and have a 390. I believe mike did that
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 05:14 PM
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Most on here rip on the 360 vs 390 but I've had a few and they are good motors. 4 barrel intake and a 600 carb along with free flowing exhaust and that motor moves fine. BTW, all 360's magically become 390 when for sale.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 05:42 PM
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Welcome to the side of the fence. I would concentrate on making it reliably start, stop and steer before you move onto body stuff.

If the fwd cab corners are rotted out and letting the fwd part of the cab settle, that is the biggest item to get on repairing 1st. With all the other items that are rusted I would put a real good eye on them. Look behind the inner fenderwell plastic liners.... if it has any that is, that year might not?

Good luck finding a good complete bed from a 73-75. FYI a 73-79 bed will work just a 73-early 77 will have a narrower rear frame section. Time to drill new holes in a 77-79 bed or weld on to the frame mount plates and use the original holes. Also a little filler neck work if you get newer bed.

360 is not a dragster motor, but a alum intake, 4 bbl you should be ok, that is the cheapest and fastest way to get a little more power. Yes C-6 trans.

Disks on the front is better than drums, IMO and I think kits are available to convert? A later 77-79 front D44 will have disks and twin piston calipers. A hydra boost is a good upgrade to help, a long with elec brakes on the trailer.

All for now and again welcome to FTE. Might find a better deal here? Or maybe he can get you a bed from California? http://www.rustfreeclassics.com/
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 06:57 PM
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My plan is to remove the bed and cab once I get it home, and start with the frame and drive train, leaving the bodywork for last. my dad has informed me he's giving us the truck, under the condition I restore it and make it use able again. he would love to, but time and money keep him from being able to.

the truck has some interesting history. Das was the second owner, and bought it in 1998, I believe. The original owner had used it to haul a Fithwheel camper on hunting trips and the truck has made the long journey from Ohio to Alaska twice for hunting trips. dad used it to haul a 10' in bed camper and pulled a 16' horse trailer, on camping trips. it might have been a little slow but it always got us where we were going. the thing has always gotten 6mpg no matter what loaded or empty.

thanks for the advice. I'm probably going to try to find a 77-79 front axle to swap under it for the disk brakes.

you mentioned filler tube work if I use a 78-79 bed? do you mean for closing up the filler door on the bed? the truck has the gas tank behind the seat with the filler tube on the cab. Being new to these trucks, I don't know if they put gas tanks under the frame for these model years or not. every one I have seen has the tank behind the seat, at least every one that's a 75.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RileyCarroll
Most came with front disc brakes stock I thought, don't quote me on that though. I'd go with a 390, there is so little difference, I think you can bore your 360 block form 3.28 to 3.5 and build the engine and have a 390. I believe mike did that
352- 4" bore 3.5" stroke...352's usually won't work to make 390's
360- 4.05" bore 3.5" stroke
390- 4.05" bore 3.78" stroke

He would need a crank and rods and car Pistons. Truck Pistons aren't worth the time in my opinion.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:53 PM
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Oops yea I forgot the 75 is cab gas tank. So if you get a 77-79 bed that will still work (fit), it will have the provisions to attach a gas tank filler neck and also have a gas flap to cover that. On 77-79's it is in between the frame rails/behind the rear axle.

The 75 is too narrow in the rear frame section to put a 77-79 tank back there. I have heard that a Bronco II tank will fit.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ohiofarmboy
My plan is to remove the bed and cab once I get it home, and start with the frame and drive train, leaving the bodywork for last. my dad has informed me he's giving us the truck, under the condition I restore it and make it use able again. he would love to, but time and money keep him from being able to.

the truck has some interesting history. Das was the second owner, and bought it in 1998, I believe. The original owner had used it to haul a Fithwheel camper on hunting trips and the truck has made the long journey from Ohio to Alaska twice for hunting trips. dad used it to haul a 10' in bed camper and pulled a 16' horse trailer, on camping trips. it might have been a little slow but it always got us where we were going. the thing has always gotten 6mpg no matter what loaded or empty.

thanks for the advice. I'm probably going to try to find a 77-79 front axle to swap under it for the disk brakes.

you mentioned filler tube work if I use a 78-79 bed? do you mean for closing up the filler door on the bed? the truck has the gas tank behind the seat with the filler tube on the cab. Being new to these trucks, I don't know if they put gas tanks under the frame for these model years or not. every one I have seen has the tank behind the seat, at least every one that's a 75.
77.5-79 high pinion 44 axle is nice but you'll need a driveshaft. Simple swap would be a 76/77 low pinion 44 open knuckle w/disc brakes. You then use your driveshaft and only have to get a master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake hoses etc.

There's nothing cheap about front axle swaps and if you get a earlier axle vs the 77.5-79 axle it will probably have the right gears. A fair amount of later ones have 3.54 gears and early highboys to my knowledge only had 4.10.

I did mine a while back and used a 79hp D60. It like everything else snowballed.
 
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PA74F250
352- 4" bore 3.5" stroke...352's usually won't work to make 390's
360- 4.05" bore 3.5" stroke
390- 4.05" bore 3.78" stroke

He would need a crank and rods and car Pistons. Truck Pistons aren't worth the time in my opinion.
my fault, i guess I got that mixed up
 
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