If I wanted to remove the weight from the suspension on my trailer to get new tires put on. What's the safest method to remove the weight from the suspension without damaging the axles or frame of the trailer? I've seen high lift hydraulic bottle jacks for sale that seem like they're designed for this purpose, but I'd like to see what others are doing. My trailer is too high and heavy to use a standard bottle jack or car jack.

 

Some guys use a tandem tire changing ramp (I never have). I prefer to crib with heavy wood blocks (6x6 posts). I do that when inspecting brakes and repacking bearings. Also did that to replace equalizers and spring bushings. Set the camper frame down on the cribbing and it's very stable. For a jack, I have a 5 ton bottle jack I position under the camper frame and on top of some cribbing blocks.

 

I use a 20 ton bottle jack on the axle U bolts to lift and then use cribbing for the safety support. Worked great for replacing the shackles and pins. I would not use a jack directly on the axle itself.

 

Most often I do the same. It really isn't too hard to do. I use a 12 ton bottle jack and it handles the weight easily.

 

I always have it hooked up to the truck when I lift it.

 

Obviously I don't but those landing gear are not going to let much move provided you are on flat ground.

 

Why are you guys avoiding lifting on the axle? I don't mean in the middle of it, that would be dumb. I'm talking about placing a jack as close to the brakes as possible.

 

I honestly don't know why. My owner's manual says not to and I didn't want to find out why the hard way...especially since it's just as easy to jack on the frame.

Occasionally borrow a flat bed goose neck trailer from a buddy. It has tandem torsion axles. He told me to use his tire ramp if I get a flat...says I can damage an axle by jacking on it. He's the kind of guy who always has good reasons and it's his trailer...so I'll do it his way if needed.

 

Seems to be quite a few different points of view on the jack points of a 5th wheel type trailer. I think we can all agree that cribbing several points is the right way, but actually lifting it is not as clear.

 

My reasoning is that axles are hollow and by jacking directly on the axle you are concentrating the entire load onto an app. 1" square section of it.

 

Mike, so you jack your trailer up on the u-bolts which essentially transfers the weight around the axle and onto the spring and spring mount correct?

Why do you not select a point on the frame that has lateral support of at a jacking/stabilization point?

 

Speaking for myself, I don't have a jack that would be tall enough to lift on the frame and get the tire off the ground.

 

Agreed here. My 5er has the reverse shackles and the frame is quite high. It's easier to use the U bolt location and then just put cribbing wherever I want to support it for safety.

 

I use some blocks under the jack (use a 6 ton bottle jack) and then a good piece on top of the jack and jack up the frame as close to the wheel as possible.

 

I think that is totally fine.

Steve