Let me preface by saying I have been reading for the last 3.5 hours this A.M. and it has left me with still alot of confusion/questions about the injectors I just pulled to do a bubble test after seeing fuel in coolant.

Long story, short version...Had oil cooler failure, went to a local small shop for head gaskets, studs, oil cooler, BP EGR. After lifting the cab and pulling heads he found #7 piston cracked. Pulled the short block, sent to machine shop for 8 new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. After reassembly and getting truck back there is fuel in coolant. Took it back and he pressurized the fuel system to check for bubbles in degas bottle/leak down for 15 minutes @ 100 psi. He said no bubbles and pressure held. Brought truck home and started flush procedure. Found he used Permatex on the thermostat housing and had not set up by the time he fired it up. Plug on the Mishimoto radiator is still gathering media from the Permatex that has contaminated the cooling system, this after 6 flushes!

On to the injectors, he stated the fuel might be from assembly as he uses diesel to lube the o-rings. I told him unless he spilled alot there is no way this is from assembly. MPG is down to half of what it used to be. The amount of fuel in the degas bottle equates to about 1/8" layer after sitting all night.
When I flush there is no smell or sign of fuel until after running the engine, using 140* water to flush.
I suspect cracked heads or cups so pulled the 1,3,5,7 injectors to do a bubble test and this is what I found after barely 200 miles...

Is the "burnt/varnished" area on the cup area from leaking combustion?

 

Yep, I'd change the hold down too. Mine was over torqued by someone before. Had to go in again and redo it.

 

Meticulously clean all the bores.
Next pressurize the coolant system using a regulator to about 15-20 psi.
Use a bore scope or bright flashlight and watch for coolant collecting in an injector cup.
If you see coolant then that is your cracked cup or head.

 

Thanks guys, had to run to work and get my pressure kit and a few other things, already drained the block, going to look for bubbles on the passenger side in a few.

 

Winner, winner, chicken dinner for #5!

 

Can't see your video. I'm guessing #5 is blowing bubbles?

 

Sorry, tried to upload direct.

http://vid491.photobucket.com/albums...121_142836.mp4

 

Now I see. Can you tell if it's a cracked head or is it leaking around the injector cup only?

 

Just above the cup, in the head. Going to do UCF heads.

 

I was afraid of that.
Do you know your options?
1. There is a repair system on the market to seal the crack.
www.bulletproofdiesel.com cylinder-head-repair-tool
2. There is a replacement injector body/sleeve kit you can swap out to give a new sealing area away from the crack.
www.accuratediesel.com
3. And last but not least, Swap out with a new head.
ucfmachineshop.com/shop/diesel-heads-ford

 

I updated my post above with links to explain the options out there.

If the shop that did the work claimed to have replaced the heads then maybe it will be covered under a warranty.

Oh, by the way, that shop using permatex silicone on the thermostat housing is enough to never return for future work. That being done I'm suspecting it leaked upon assembly, probably from trying to use an old o-ring seal, and gooped on the silicone instead of replacing it.

 

Thanks for that. He is footing the bill for the dealer to re-do everything I paid him for, simply put I told him he can't be trusted after finding everything I found that he did and didn't do. We had already discussed doing heads before he started the job if they did not check out ok. Here is a bit of history on this job...Got the truck back and checked coolant after 23 miles, found fuel in it. Got under the truck to re-install airlines, cables, etc that I had prepared before going to him as I didn't want him having to deal with everything I have going on, anyway, found the block to cab ground wire hanging on the turbo down pipe, had transfer case codes = loose connector that he broke the locking tab on, wire harness being crushed by battery instead of being clipped to the back of the battery tray, 2/0 starter lead from battery to starter was rubbing on the frame rail and not clipped back into frame, AC charge line was broken when he put back together due to mis-routing the harness to the compressor and switch, 1 of my ham radio antennas was stolen, transmission cooler lines rubbing between oil pan and crossmember because he did not secure with a nut to the stud. All of this was my initial findings.

Took it back for him to pressure check fuel system to see bubbles in the degas, asked for him to call me so I can witness, he didn't call. Came in the next day he was open and he stated he pressurized to almost 100 and let sit for 15 minutes for leak down and had no drop/ no bubbles. He did tell me he put the nut on the trans lines. We agreed that I would do several flushes to get the fuel out and see if it shows up again. Drove it home let it sit for 1 day, when to pull the NEW Mishimoto drain plug and found the goo silicone on the magnet, pulled the starter to get to the block drain plug and found he had used the wrong bolt (too long) in the middle starter hole, it broke off so he decided to grab the Permatex to glue the bolt in as if I wouldn't find it. At this point I was extremely livid. Went to pull the thermostat and found the "Right Stuff" there as well.
Told him I cannot trust him and he can either work with me on the bill from the dealer or work with my attorney (as I handed him pics of everything I found).

I'm paying for the new heads but he is covering the labor and consumables that will be needed.

 

Also was a new housing, o-ring and thermostat, he said he has always done that because he had a few that came back leaking.

 

Holy smokes what a hack. Glad you found all that and approached him. Unbelievable. The broken starter bolt is priceless.

 

You should post the shop's name to warn everyone here. What he did is beyond dishonest.