I have that amp and it works great. Definitely under rated power wise.

 

Spend a little more and go with the PDX V9.

Better amp, more efficient, more powerful, and better suited for future upgrades.

Have a great day.

 

I definitely agree, if you can afford the pdx, get it. It is worth the extra for the power capabilities and speaker capabilities.

 

personally id want a little more power...for 1 inch larger you can get the PDX-v9 (4x100 + 1x500) in a more stable speaker resistance range (2-4 ohms). You'll want more than 250W for the sub

I have the PDX-v9 under the front seat of my jeep/wrangler....nice/small, clean and VERY stable output

 

The factory tech sheet, alpine tests each amp so you know its specific capabilities, for my v75 says 446w rms for the sub at 2ohms.

The speaker channels are 123w at 2ohms according to that sheet.

I still agree the v9 is the better amp as it is stable at 2 or 4 ohm for that power.

 

and the test sheet on the v9 always tests higher than the rated output, I've installed 3 (2 in friends jeep and car)...the packaging is very good.

I'm a HUGE fan of JL Audio Slash Amps....you talk about CLEAN and Stable (regardless of the speaker impedance or voltage input)...but the package requires a bit more space (that I'm not willing to surrender in the new truck.

I pulled all of this (and more out of my 2004 f350)....It's killing me not to use it in the 2017.

 

I feel you, I have my 360.3, my v75, the stereo integrity tm65's, and scanspeak illuminator tweeters sitting on my shelf waiting for install. They were all in my chevy 1500. A lot of people said it sounded great at sound quality get togethers.

I just am to particular to just install them and not do a bunch of sound deadening in the process. I just have too many other things on my plate right now to install that stuff.

 

yeah i won't do it 1/2 *** or a little - i lined the entire interior (roof, doors, floors) of our 2004 in hush matt and i ran polly tubing in the door seals.

my goal is ALWAYS to hide things or make it look as close to stock as possible.

I have plans for this stuff too...but I'm letting some sort out the signal specifics (this might be the 1st (an only) factory head unit I've ever kept.

 

I meant to add that 250w RMS (v75) is not adequate for a sub Imo.
500w (rms) will give you head room for when you really want to get things moving.

understand that you need more (sub) power at lower volumes (a sep gain control is essential)...at lower volume levels you'll need to increase the sub gain just to even hear it...as you increase the over all volume you can then back down the sub to prevent it from being overwhelming.

 

With my truck not having the Sony system. Can I just use the AudioControl LC7i? Or am I going to want more sound control? Reading peoples post on here it sounds like the standard XLT system doesn't change the sound like the Sony system.

 

Yes you can, you technically don't even need that, just high level inputs on your amp and you're good to go.

 

I just got my F250 last weekend, and I have a bunch of nice equipment from my old truck's sound system. I have a JL Audio TwK-88, a 5 channel JL RD900/5, Hertz ML280.3 tweeters (big 1.38" tweeter), Morel 6.5" mids (high power with huge voicecoils), and a JL CS112TG-TW3 power wedge sub. I had a Pioneer NEX head unit with nav in my last truck, but the new Sync3 with nav pretty much does everything the Pioneer head unit did, plus more. I previously had the TwK-88 working as an active crossover and equalizer for the tweeters and 6.5" mids, and the level adjustment of the 5th channel for the sub.

What is my best option now to integrate with the stock Ford head unit and amplifier? I am thinking now I would need a FiX-86?
Where is the stock Ford amplifier located? I don't see where it says Sony anywhere, just SYNC 3.
Can a 6.5" with a fairly big magnet fit next to a pretty large tweeter in the stock front speaker loactions? Before I had 3d printer tweeter pods for the A-pillars in the old truck, but I want them hidden in the new truck.

Also I should mention that the stock sound system in this Ford sounds terrible, so I really hope I can get some halfway clean audio out of it. Did they even put one tweeter in this thing? The treble is maxed out and there are no highs at all.

 

Sounds like you don`t have the Sony Premium system in your truck.

If you fold the rear drivers side seat down, you`ll see, if you have them, the factory sub woofer and amp.

There`s a car audio shop in Florida, which also has a YouTube channel, they make such a custom speaker adaptor for the door that`ll hold two speakers.

Sounds like one of the JL FIX processors is what you`ll need.

 

Does anyone have a Sony box that fits 2017 SD crew for sale?

 

Ok I do see the Sony amplifier and sub behind the seat at the bottom, even though I couldn't figure out how to get the back of the seat to go down at the moment lol The "Premium Sound" system sounds far from premium.
So now the only option is to use audio from the speaker outputs of the Sony amplifier into a high to low converter? I thought I read somewhere that the audio from the head unit is more like a data stream than low level audio.