Let us know how it all hooks up and how well it works.

 

Using a PVS in line to the Dizzy is a good idea IMHO. In climates such as yours. And with the gas we have now-a-days. I don't think it necessary to the air cleaner though. The temp sender in the air cleaner housing will do what needs to be done.
Just in case....black/brown VDV was part number D3DZ12A091B. Stamped D3DE-AA.

 

I think you are needlessly overcomplicating things. Just get a replacement wax bulb from another air cleaner or another air cleaner assembly. Mine works just as it should on my 67 with 352. It starts instantly and I can take off immediately with no hesitation at all. I do have a manual choke and some people don't understand how to use them.

 

I don't know about that Buddy. Not sure how your local climate is but OP is around Denver Colorado as I recall. Elevation and temperature. You know the ol' saying, location,location,location. Ford jetted their carbs at elevation 0-5000', 5000-10,000', then 10,000' and above. Those are pretty wide spans. And the gas we have now-a-days is way different than when these rigs were new. If OP can make things easier on the motor without washing down his cylinder walls I say go for it. Which is one reason I sent him my air cleaner. Bump Lives Matter!

 

Thermal vacuum switches and vacuum diaphragms have no business on bumps.

 

Carburetor icing is the big issue, and warmup time is the lesser one. At extreme conditions, icing can occur at 105F.



Snorkels are similar, but do not match. The end is smaller, and it is narrower than the '72. Most importantly, the hot air tube is smaller, and offset. (More about that in pictures several posts down.)



Both sensors have tops inside the Air Cleaner assembly. Legs stick out for hoses.



TVS has D5AF-CA, Ford, and TVS molded into it. This is used and a little dirty, but it is the 'White' one. Not the yellow. A fine control, this modulates the vacuum to the door, provides bleed-down, and makes a smooth motion when changes occur.



ACTS P/N might be 9E607 or CX-109? Has 8JA stamped on it. This one has some red on it, but pink is 90F.

( EDIT: The later style ACTS with blue or red on it has a restriction of 0.015 or 0.020". This is necessary to limit the vacuum leak created by 'breaking the vacuum'. If you use this old ACTS shown here, place a similar restriction bead or restricted-connector in the hose near the intake manifold, before all the other controls, and in the line just for the hot-air-flapper. At the end of this thread, you will see some other options with filtration and all-stock parts from later vehicles. )


Air cleaner lids do not match. Nor do the housings. Later lids are about one inch less in radius (-2" dia.). Later assembly is aluminum, and a great deal lighter overall. It may not work on my '72, so I will have to adapt the parts to my older air cleaner housing.

More details are in the Gallery

 

Here is part of the reason I want a 'Warm-Air Door" in the snorkle. Our temps go up to 114F here, so a cold air feed is nice in Summer. But running down the road on a cold night, it overwhelms the '72 warm-air door, and chills the carb way too much. The '72 thermostatic door is a loose fit, and my old wax-pellet type device died.

On the '77, it is tighter fit around the door, and the supply hole has it's own seal. A double leak protection is provided in the sheet-metal itself.
Of course, the vacuum devices will provide finer control when installed, but the lack of leakage makes it more effective at cold temperatures.


Hey, it worked Ok, at least at slow speeds. It has been on there for 20K miles. Cable attaches to a manual pull cable to provide warm air when ambient temperature is cool or humid.

See my Cold-Air Gallery if you want more on that.

So the plan now, is to adapt the Vacuum Motor to the old Snorkel, and place the two '77 devices inside the '72 Air Cleaner Housing. ... just need my tools ...

 

I'm thinkin' the smaller diameter air cleaner might be "the solution" Ford did for that cold weather. In other words, the reason Ford started making them smaller. Seems to me the warmed up air would hit the carb warmer in a smaller air volume air cleaner. Are you sure it wouldn't be better to use the smaller air cleaner and adapt the stuff you have outside of it?

 

Good point: smaller surface area, lighter, faster to respond to air temperature changes, cooler in warm weather, warmer in cold weather, and less rust.

But: not original parts, changes in hose lengths, offset adapter needed to the heat stove -OR- replace the '72 heat stove sheet-metal with the '77-style. Does that fit the '72 exhaust manifold (I think they are different manifolds?)

Hmmm....

 

80's 5.0 has a rear vacuum door that, I have hooked to the ported vacuum.
That's the scoop looking opening. These are getting hard to find a good one now days
as many I come across don't work any longer.
Orich

 

Can you use this 2.02" I.D. X 18" long universal bend and cut to fit Kraft Paper hose Ford uses as a universal replacement? C9UZ9652A still available from Ford.

 

I do not want to beat a dead horse but ran across this thread and have a similar problem. Just curious how the original snorkles are even supposed to work? I am trying to troubleshoot my 1970 Snorkle, it is closed all of the time and missing the spring on the flap. Sorry for thread crashing.

Dan

 

JEFFFAFFA: Good idea, but the '72 stove neck is out of alignment and a very different size. There is no distance between the two parts for the Kraft Paper Tube.



77 does not line up with 72, and it is much smaller. Shown here, with the 77 air cleaner housing in place.



Snorkel Width 4"



Snorkel Height 2"



Snorkel Length ~10.25"

 

Orich: A door like that would only get me under-hood air. I want the hottest air available. Hot air off the headers is the quickest source. Down around zero, it is still far too cold under the hood. But, that is an interesting idea for some others.

My temperature readings show that the 'ram air' effect overwhelms the current hot-air-door in my '72 snorkel, when the truck is going over 35. It does not seal well enough.

JEFFFAFA: The '72 snorkel is a half-inch wider, and D-shaped, rather than rounded. It is closer to 4.4" at the bottom.

At this point, I'm not quite ready to modify the original snorkel with a '77 vacuum motor. Still thinking of options. One positive issue is that the '77 assembly might be made to fit, with a reducer to the existing hot-air-stove-neck. It would seal better as well. And two, I haven't made sure the vacuum motor has the required travel to engage the catch in the existing hot-air-door.

As an aside, I wonder what size fresh-air hose fit this originally. If anyone knows of that, and good reproduction plastic fresh air housings being made, please post. (See cold-air thread.)

I just updated my galleries on the Warm Air, Cold Air, and Air Cleaner Housing topics with additional pictures.

Sorry about the large pictures, I'll shrink them as I get a chance.

 

Here's a little update on the project.

Short version: The '77 Vacuum Motor won't work on the '72 Snorkel. The wire-hook is too short. I wouldn't advise trying to do this. I'll keep at it, but just for personal reward.

I got some of my tools out of storage, and learned some things:

First, I used a Dremel Tool to remove the rivet, and gently worked the Vacuum Motor off of the '77 snorkel. The rest of this note is talking about disassemby and details on the wax-pellet door activator. Later, I detail the needed modification to the original '77 snorkel.

Working through a hole drilled on the top of the '72 Snorkel, the first lesson is, the hole needs to be offset to align a vacuum-motor hook with the dimple in the existing heat door.

Here's a shot of the underside of the Snorkel.



1972 Snorkel underside view.

Removing the (inoperable) wax-pellet-door-activator isn't bad, but it is not obvious how it comes apart. Directions below.
Getting the door out is a pain. It is not hinged with a pin or rod, it is held in by opposing metal tabs.



If you look carefully, there is a bit of wire at the end of the spring-rod.



This part is supposed to expand, and close the door when it gets hot. Mine barely moved from 32 to 240 degrees, so it is shot.

Remove the spring that helps close the door. Not shown in these pictures. Remove by unscrewing the large hat-like end. Watch your fingers, it is under a little compression. Long pliers are needed. The other end is held in by a wire. Straighten the wire a bit, and grab it with side-cutters, to lever it out. Notice the little hole in the end of the rod.



Notice the little circlip, a drill-bit points to it. Apparently these can be preloaded (adjusted?) to two positions. Don't know if that might help somebody.

Next, the door may be removed. I had to modify it for my purposes. The dimple needs to be relieved to allow a larger hook to be used. (The original was only used for a spring.) I drilled two holes on either side of the dimple, making the hole under it larger. Having got this far, I realized the hole drilled in the top of the Snorkle needed to be off-set. Doh!



Looking sideways, here you can see where the hook will need to attach. Blue arrow below.
Also, the one and only tab locating the door-flap, in red. There is no proper hinge.



Sideways, you can see where the hook from the Vacuum Motor needs to connect. (Ignore the wrench holding the piece upright for the snapshot.)

The '72 door is different than the '77. So the '77 vacuum-motor has too-short hook out the bottom. Also, it has a different spot where it hooks to the door, so this isn't going to be easy. I will need a motor with longer hook for sure.

The '77 vacuum-motor starts pulling with only 4" of vacuum. Normally, the door would be pulled closed when the other control items allow it.

JEFFFAFA, I passed the nice, clean, air-cleaner on to another member, with a '77-ish truck.

I'll be busy with other things for a while, so I'll post more meanderings when I can get back to this, with parts.