Should I leave the cab on the chasis for replacing metal? Seams like a good idea to me. I built a rotisserie, But I may weld my panels in while it's on the frame, then remove it for the body work.

 

Which panels are you replacing? If you can work around the frame that way is fine, if not then some bracing may be required for extensive repairs.....with the cab off that is.

 

The pillars that the doors attach to, the floor in spots and at the jambs. Also the rear cab corners.















BTW, what did the on/off switch do on the column?

 

The switch is for the ignition; the key locks the steering shaft in place. Is your truck a 1.5 ton? 1945 Model? I would like to see some picks of your truck from about 15 feet before making any suggestions on body repair. I like it so far.

 

I'm by no means a body man but I'd say that cab needs some bracing installed before being removed and the panels replaced.

 

Data tag says shes a '41 IIRC. Delivered to the Navy a couple weeks after Pearl Harbor.

 

Here's the bed I'm putting on it.

 

Any advice on how to start this would be appreciated.

 

I think that bed will look good on your truck. Are you going to make it a dump? I've never seen shock absorbers on a big truck of that era. Nice truck!

 

I think that you should look through the posts on the 1947 and older forum to see what has been done by other people to find out how nice you want your truck to be when you are finished building. If you want to drive it soon, you could knock off the rust flakes and get it running, then hit the road. Usually, but not always, those who get really involved in shooting for a restoration never finish the job. You will see that here. To do a full restoration you need an indoor facility, and access to many hand and power tools. And, many hours of working time and many thousands of dollars.
If I was going to replace panels on the cab I would remove it from the frame so that I could access the whole surface of the part I would be working on. Of course, if you are going to remove a part that will make the structure collapse it should have braces welded in to retain the shape of the part.
If you keep looking for another year you could probably find one of these trucks in excellent condition for under $3000.

 

Thanks. No dumpey dumpey.

 

My exact advise too. Life has a way of changing our plans and you could very easily sink 10-20,000 into a truck that you could have bought for $3000. Once you start, it's hard to find a place to stop because you can't have a nice new or restored part next to a rusty one. As far as the cab, I would do as much as you can with it on the frame.
Truck isn't a 41. It has a 42-47 style front with a few extra grill bars. If it's a 42 it would have a chrome hood side script. Newer would have a stamped in script. Barring any military anomalies.
Good luck on the built. Love those ww2 trucks with the tip out windshield.

 

I guess I don't understand. The ID tag has a "Delivery Date" of 12-15-41 on it. And the name "Quartermaster Corp." which my google says is an Army Logistics Branch. I didn't think they would have any amenities like chrome being military.

The windshield is why I bought the truck in the first place. It has what looks like Dap or white silicone around the windshield glass. HOPEFULLY it's not rusted underneath that crap.

I'm leaving town for a week or so, I plan on carving into it when I get back.

 

December of '41 would have been a '42 model. Just like right now you can buy a '17. Your truck is a '42. As far as the Ford emblem thing, it seems many '42's had the embossed hood. Not sure if it was a plant by plant thing, but many seem to have stamped hoods. I've seen many '42's in very old paint, and the hoods match the truck, but have Ford stamped. The crank out windshield was a military thing, not seen on civilian models

 

Ahhhhhhhhh.


Thats the theme I'm going with (Military). What color were the Army's trucks? I'm guessing OD Green.