1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Family 56 rebuild thread.

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  #91  
Old 11-30-2017, 02:47 PM
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I’m sure you are right John. I just rarely get time to work on my ole trucks so when I do get out to work on them I’m trying too hard to see progress.
 
  #92  
Old 11-30-2017, 02:56 PM
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You should concentrate on one and not even look at the other. Once one is done the next goes a lot quicker...
 
  #93  
Old 12-04-2017, 09:48 PM
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A progress report. NOT I’m not sure what it is but I must have Chump tattooed on my forehead. My frame and power train has been at the exhaust shop since last Wednesday? Called today and they said their working on it. Having worked at a exhaust place some 35 years ago, we would have completed a dual exhaust in less than 4 hours. Times sure have changed.
 
  #94  
Old 12-04-2017, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
Not a picture of settings for sheet metal just a picture of my welder.
I’m using gas indoors (no breeze). Using EZGrind wire. (Suggested by Axracer). I keep thinking it’s my power source.
My shop (rented) only has 110v. I have a 20 amp dedicated circuit, but I’ve got to use an extension cord. I have a heavy duty cord but it seems like I just can’t get anywhere close to a satisfactory bead.
Another problem is I can’t see where I’m welding. I’ve got a self darkening helmet.
BJ

IMO the biggest problem you are having with this welder is the voltage. Even with a dedicated circuit the distance from the main panel to the outlet can be so long that a volt drop occurs and than you add an extension chord and you develop spikes. My very first welder was a 110 and it lasted every bit of two days and I traded for a 220 unit (Lincoln 155) and love that machine for panel repair. For heavier welding I use a Lincoln 213. For a helmet I use a Miller auto dark that has controls for controlling the darkness and sensitivity. This helmet cured the exact same problem you are having. I wear progressive and transitional glasses also. I have tried different power level cheaters, lights (these helped some) but the helmet gave the best results. Once you get your machine dialed with constant voltage you will be surprised how fast you will pick this welding up, do just like John says cut some metal of the gauge you want to learn and weld up a storm it will come.
 
  #95  
Old 12-06-2017, 08:32 AM
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Wouldn’t ya know it. Go out of town for a week and the exhaust shop calls and says my exhaust is finished. Oh well, it’ll be Monday before I can go pick it up now.

gerrymoe,
As you can tell by the picture my welder is virtually new but I’m restricted to 110v due to the rental of my building. I’m going to try to find someone local to help me out with my welder. I may not get much time with my trucks but I believe I can get them repaired faster than the body shops I’m trying to use.
 
  #96  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:22 AM
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BJ if your welder is new then your problem is down to voltage as Gerrymoe suggests. I'm guessing the wire is burning in the nozzle and not on your metal. I haven't used 110V but lower voltages do suffer more from voltage drop so that extension is making it worse. One option would be to use a generator.
I guess you will have checked the tension on the wire - make sure its not slipping and not too tight. Try spooling out to see if its ok. A worn liner can cause similar symptoms but that wont be your problem.
 
  #97  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:25 AM
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If there are more than one circuit in your rental building you can run a cord from each one and have 220 volts, they sell the pigtails to do that..
 
  #98  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
If there are more than one circuit in your rental building you can run a cord from each one and have 220 volts, they sell the pigtails to do that..
Never thought of that a John.
 
  #99  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:38 AM
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I know a guy that runs his compressor that way when he needs it..
 
  #100  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Justboy
BJ if your welder is new then your problem is down to voltage as Gerrymoe suggests. I'm guessing the wire is burning in the nozzle and not on your metal. I haven't used 110V but lower voltages do suffer more from voltage drop so that extension is making it worse. One option would be to use a generator.
I guess you will have checked the tension on the wire - make sure its not slipping and not too tight. Try spooling out to see if its ok. A worn liner can cause similar symptoms but that wont be your problem.
Wire feeds good. If feed is too much I can feel it push the gun back. I do get a slight build up in the nozzle but not excessive. Just can’t get anything like this.
 
  #101  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:40 AM
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What type of Helmet do you have? I had a cheap helmet for a long time and then some Mates bought me a good helmet for my 40th. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE! I could then actually see what I was working on instead of guessing.
 
  #102  
Old 12-06-2017, 02:07 PM
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The Outlaw
I have a cheap Harbor Freight self darkening helmet. Has plenty of adjustments but you maybe right.
 
  #103  
Old 12-06-2017, 02:24 PM
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HA! That's the EXACT helmet I had! Trust me that there is a WORLD of difference in getting a quality helmet. This is the HELMET that I was looking at before I got one as a present.

Also anyway to post a few pics of the welds your doing so maybe the experts around here can maybe give ya some tips as to what may be going on
 
  #104  
Old 12-06-2017, 03:00 PM
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My welds look like bubble gum. I’m afraid to post a picture for fear of being banned from FTE


Drivers rear floor Patch panel I made and tried to weld into place.
 

Last edited by bjmayberry2; 12-06-2017 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Added photo
  #105  
Old 12-06-2017, 06:45 PM
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It looks like there is not enough heat in your welds. If that is your weld in the first picture you posted it looks perfect.
 


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