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I was under the impression that my 2006 F-150 didn't have the faulty fuel injectors. Lucky me, the build date was December 2015 and yes, it did have the faulty fuel injectors.
The engine started running really rough and the check engine light started flashing when I was less than a mile from home. Got it home, let the dog out and came back to start it up and take it to oreilly's to get the code checked...wouldn't start and it sounded like *** when I cranked it. I poked around disconnected the fuel line, checked sensors, fuses .etc. and couldn't figure it out, so i had it towed to the ford dealer.
They tell me my #7 injector was dumping fuel and likely caused some damage...and long story short, bent valves/rods.....needs a new engine.
Just rolled the OD past the 100,000 mile mark too. So I JUST paid for spark plugs to be installed by the dealer and trans flush/pan drop. I did all of the other 100,000 mile maintenance myself.
Then I come to find out that I'm the small minority of people with 2006's that have the faulty injectors, but since it's not technically a 2005 the "ford customer satisfaction program # 07M08" which would have covered everything won't do a thing for me. I've called for customer satisfaction and gotten nowhere. Insurance nowhere.
The dealership totally gets it and they didn't BS me about the situation, but there's nothing they can do, their hands are tied.
The dealership wants $8,800 for the new engine (f-that).
I have pulled engines before on 70's ford trucks and I'm pretty sure I can manage swapping out the engines on this truck. I just need to research into my options further.
So, I figured I start up a thread (though it's likely a repeat) to get some help/ try to hand out some lessons learned.
First one would be - if you have a 2006 and think you are immune from the injector issue - think again, the early 2006 models still were made with the faulty '05 injectors and none of the repairs will be covered.
What exactly do you mean by sounded like ***? Was it knocking? If its only a bent rod you can just replace the rod with the engine still in the truck. If you have access to a lift the easiest way is lift the cab to pull the head.
What exactly do you mean by sounded like ***? Was it knocking? If its only a bent rod you can just replace the rod with the engine still in the truck. If you have access to a lift the easiest way is lift the cab to pull the head.
It was making a clicking noise and it seemed like the engine was seeing "resistance" to starting (a cylinder full of gas)
I just went up to the dealership and the truck is running right now after replacing the faulty injector.
The tech walked over to the truck with me and we started it up, from what they told me on the phone I was expecting awful/terrible noises, it wasn't nearly as bad as expected. I'm no expert but it sounded like "lifter noise" and was not that loud. It was definitely a higher pitched ticking noise - not a deep knocking noise.
I'm pretty sure I can take slow and steady and get it home. Hopefully it is just a bent valve or something in the top end of the engine that I could service easily. Since it doesn't sound like the rod is bent and damaging the cylinder walls or anything - I'd think I could probably tackle the connecting rod issue too.
side note:
To clarify (correct me if you think i'm wrong) the reason it wouldn't start with the failed open injector is because it was dumping fuel into the #7 cylinder, which was being expelled straight out the exhaust - causing the the computer to think it's running too rich - so it adjusts by dialing back the fuel. So 1 cylinder has too great of a fuel/air mixture to combust and the other 7 had no fuel (all air)
Also:
The affected cylinder has poor compression - which really makes me think it's just damaged valves - right?
For a bent connecting rod to be the failure causing the low compression - you'd think it would have to have done quite a bit more damage - slipped the ring, dented/scratched the walls etc..? Maybe?
It didnt want to start because it was hydrolocked on that cylinder from the gas. The low compression is from the bent rod not allowing the piston to reach the top of the cylinder. The noise could be the bottom of the piston hitting the crankshaft counterweight. There shouldn't be anything wrong with the valves. Dont drive it unless you want to replace the driver's side cat converter. It doesnt take much to damage them and its already seen excess fuel. Also the oil is diluted with gas so it can possible damage the bearings.
It didnt want to start because it was hydrolocked on that cylinder from the gas. The low compression is from the bent rod not allowing the piston to reach the top of the cylinder. The noise could be the bottom of the piston hitting the crankshaft counterweight. There shouldn't be anything wrong with the valves. Dont drive it unless you want to replace the driver's side cat converter. It doesnt take much to damage them and its already seen excess fuel. Also the oil is diluted with gas so it can possible damage the bearings.
Ahhh, thanks for the reply. Those are very good points, I was really starting to lean towards not towing and trying to limp it home. I will just pay for the tow
Also, I totally hadn't even thought about the gas getting down into my oil - Good point, it's pretty much a guarantee that fuel slipped past the rings into the oil
Had the same thing happen on a 2006. Same answer from Ford even though the engine was made in December 05. Got lucky didn't damage anything inside the engine but it did get the planetary ring gear in the starter. Pull the head off and you can measure how high the Pistons come up or you maybe able to see it. About all you could bend would be a rod or break a piston. Valves wouldn't have touched the piston as long as the engine was in time.
Hopefully the cylinder wall isnt damaged. I've never seen a rod bent so much it rubs on the wall. You should be able to reuse the piston but wont know for sure till you get it out.
The rod is polished where it has rubbed the extreme lower end of the cylinder wall there just to the right in your picture. Likely it's below where the rings will ever see ..... you can look at another one to see how far down the rings slide but I swear it looks like that rod has just kissed the lower edge of the cylinder wall in passing as it's bowed out on this side and is on an outward swing of the crank throw.
Yes, it's bent, and Yes, it needs replacing. I'd probably install a new piston and rings on that one .....
..... but if I was without access to them, would maybe just reuse. I know takes a lot of force to bend a rod, but this was not a contact or impact force, it was a hydraulic force that deformed the rod. If the rod is bent in only one plane, the piston is "likely" OK.
If when you get it out and rod separated from piston, the big end and the little end are in same plane when laid flat, likely piston is OK. Use some magnification and look closely at piston around the skirt and pin bores.
If the rod is also twisted or bent so it doesn't lay flat in same plane, I'd use a new piston and rings on that cylinder.
If I were gonna reuse the piston maybe, I would not disturb the rings.
The rod is polished where it has rubbed the extreme lower end of the cylinder wall there just to the right in your picture. Likely it's below where the rings will ever see ..... you can look at another one to see how far down the rings slide but I swear it looks like that rod has just kissed the lower edge of the cylinder wall in passing as it's bowed out on this side and is on an outward swing of the crank throw.
Yes, it's bent, and Yes, it needs replacing. I'd probably install a new piston and rings on that one .....
..... but if I was without access to them, would maybe just reuse. I know takes a lot of force to bend a rod, but this was not a contact or impact force, it was a hydraulic force that deformed the rod. If the rod is bent in only one plane, the piston is "likely" OK.
If when you get it out and rod separated from piston, the big end and the little end are in same plane when laid flat, likely piston is OK. Use some magnification and look closely at piston around the skirt and pin bores.
If the rod is also twisted or bent so it doesn't lay flat in same plane, I'd use a new piston and rings on that cylinder.
If I were gonna reuse the piston maybe, I would not disturb the rings.
Thanks tbear. So I'm getting the engine ready to pull out...man most of the PITA stuff is getting to all the hard to reach wiring harness connectors, especially the ones on the bottom of the engine.
I believe I'm down to the engine mounts and the exhaust manifold to cat bolts and I think this line going into the bottom of the power steering pump.
I look around, but any advice on the best spot to attach the engine to the hoist?
I was thinking I could take the front clip off, but I believe it's all attached to the quarter panels and too much of a bi***. Anyways getting the bumper off sure makes access way easier.
11-03-2016, 08:11 AM
