04' ticking is back after phaser change in 2010
#1
04' ticking is back after phaser change in 2010
Hey all,
Been along while since I've posted. Did the phaser change in January of 2010 and ticking went away. It has now been back for 6 months or so. Truck has 105000 miles on it. I've searched a bit on this forum and see that some of you have changed out the phasers, timing, lifters etc. My question is...can I leave it alone or do I need to open her up again? I would like to keep the truck for another 5+ years. If I do need to open her up what should I change? Truck runs great just has that awful tick back.
Thanks,
Ron
Been along while since I've posted. Did the phaser change in January of 2010 and ticking went away. It has now been back for 6 months or so. Truck has 105000 miles on it. I've searched a bit on this forum and see that some of you have changed out the phasers, timing, lifters etc. My question is...can I leave it alone or do I need to open her up again? I would like to keep the truck for another 5+ years. If I do need to open her up what should I change? Truck runs great just has that awful tick back.
Thanks,
Ron
#2
Wow @rferoni
I'm sorry to hear that. Ain't that many miles for another round of that kind of trouble.
I don't think the mechanical parts that produce the "tick" itself will necessarily cause direct problems. Mine had the damn "tick" at idle coming from somewhere on the rear passenger side - most audible in the wheel well or in a fast food drive through - for several years and probably 150,000 miles before I had to do a full timing job. That was at 212K (8K miles ago). Due to high milage, I replaced all lash adjusters and roller/followers. Don't know if THAT is what did it or not - but the job definately got rid of ALL the stupid 5.4L noises.
I'm far from an expert, but have a curious mind and would love to figure out the definite source. So many owners report the problem and never seem to pinpoint the exact cause - or resolution. I have my theories - but they are just framed in my personal experience.
I would be interested in knowing more about your experience - to add with my own. Such as mileage when you did your timing job? Did you replace lifters or any rollers? What weight-brand oil were/are you running? Ever use any oil additives or cleaners? Do you have an aftermarket Oil Pressure gauge - what pressure are you seeing? Did you go back with OEM parts and/or stock (plastic) tensioners? Does your engine see any or frequent stresses - high load or RPM?
I'm sorry to hear that. Ain't that many miles for another round of that kind of trouble.
I don't think the mechanical parts that produce the "tick" itself will necessarily cause direct problems. Mine had the damn "tick" at idle coming from somewhere on the rear passenger side - most audible in the wheel well or in a fast food drive through - for several years and probably 150,000 miles before I had to do a full timing job. That was at 212K (8K miles ago). Due to high milage, I replaced all lash adjusters and roller/followers. Don't know if THAT is what did it or not - but the job definately got rid of ALL the stupid 5.4L noises.
I'm far from an expert, but have a curious mind and would love to figure out the definite source. So many owners report the problem and never seem to pinpoint the exact cause - or resolution. I have my theories - but they are just framed in my personal experience.
I would be interested in knowing more about your experience - to add with my own. Such as mileage when you did your timing job? Did you replace lifters or any rollers? What weight-brand oil were/are you running? Ever use any oil additives or cleaners? Do you have an aftermarket Oil Pressure gauge - what pressure are you seeing? Did you go back with OEM parts and/or stock (plastic) tensioners? Does your engine see any or frequent stresses - high load or RPM?
#3
A lot of things other than phasers cause a tick. Phasers actually cause more of a knock than a tick. Check for loose spark plugs and leaking exhaust gaskets. I have seen manifolds crack. If all that checks out good then you may have a failed roller rocker or lash adjuster. Timing chain guides can break and tensionsers can blow out the seal causing oil pressure to bleed off. If OEM phasers were installed then I doubt they are the source
#4
Agreed. Phasers knock, not tick. It's getting more and more common to see people blame every little sound these engines make on phasers. To the OP, please post up a sound clip video for us to hear...
#5
@F150Torqued...The only work I did in 2010 was change out the phasers and plugs. Yes they were OEM Phasers. There was 52K on the odometer. At the time truck was just a daily driver. Truck is all stock never use any additives or anything. Running Motorcraft 5w20 and motorcraft filters.
Wow saw your write up on all the work you did. Nice!
As for the tick/nock, its a tick. I know what a knock is. Not saying its the phasers again, but it is the exact same 'tick' sound that was cured last time by replacing the phasers.
Thanks,
Ron
Wow saw your write up on all the work you did. Nice!
As for the tick/nock, its a tick. I know what a knock is. Not saying its the phasers again, but it is the exact same 'tick' sound that was cured last time by replacing the phasers.
Thanks,
Ron
#6
TICK is back.
@rferoni thanks for the supplemented info. With that, I'm prepared to go out on a limb a little farther to answer your question.
Chances are pretty good you can leave it alone and make it 5+ more years. According to my calculations that would put you around 150 to 155K miles. With good maintenance and avoiding certain common problems, I would say chances are good you can make that. Chains / phasers/ guides should last that long although you may experience degradation in fuel economy and power.
At 105k miles, I do not believe it would hurt for you to go to 5w30 oil which might help with the (* source of) the 'tick'. But not above 30w because I believe the fine screens in the VCT Solenoid and solenoid valve bodies impose a point of diminishing return on proper Phaser Operation as viscosity increases.
You changed spark plugs at 52K (a very wise move), and I would recommend changing them again for two reasons. Probably none will break if changed every 50k miles or so. I am also a strong advocate of preventatively replacing O2 sensors around 100k because they become _lazy_ (slow reacting) and out of 'calibration' (as to optimum fuel/air mixture). IMO both of these are prime factors leading to random misfiring ---- a prime cause of these engines trashing plastic chain guides.
(* source of) the tick on the 3v engine. FWIW, I believe oil pressure (AT IDLE) is _borderline sufficient_ on the 5.4L 3v to maintain hydraulic force on TWELVE lash adjusters per head instead of EIGHT in two valve engines. Each lash adjuster "pisses" a small amount of oil out the top to run down the follower onto the roller/cam surface oiling them and the valve stems. Residual pressure continues on through VCT solenoids to phasers and chain tensioners. Phasers (although not 'operational' at idle) are not designed with completely 'sealed' chambers, and by design allow oil to escape all five chambers to oil the chains. As phasers and vane surfaces ware, cylinder head oil galley pressure deteriorates. At some point valve spring resistance overcomes the weakest lash adjusters ability to keep the slack out of the lash adjuster / follower / cam surfaces - AND THE TICK DEVELOPS - at idle. These conditions may be why replacing your Phasers cured your 'tick' for a while. A lifter tick from this source, though annoying and not necessarily a good thing, probably will never hurt anything. The Slightest increase in RPM immediately raises oil pressure above the threshold and the 'tick' cease.
The 'tick' can also result from blown gaskets in the chain tensioners. I notice you did not change tensioners. If that is the source, you probably will encounter the "marbles in a coffee can" noise at startup or certain no-load RPMs. More severe cases develop the 'diesel knock' where idle oil pressure and the phaser clock spring can't keep the phaser advanced and its vanes slap the end of the chambers or slack in the phaser locking pin. Under that scenario, Then - I would be recommending you open her up and go the distance, oil pump and all --- everything (except perhaps your OEM Phasers which have only 50K miles or so on them).
Chances are pretty good you can leave it alone and make it 5+ more years. According to my calculations that would put you around 150 to 155K miles. With good maintenance and avoiding certain common problems, I would say chances are good you can make that. Chains / phasers/ guides should last that long although you may experience degradation in fuel economy and power.
At 105k miles, I do not believe it would hurt for you to go to 5w30 oil which might help with the (* source of) the 'tick'. But not above 30w because I believe the fine screens in the VCT Solenoid and solenoid valve bodies impose a point of diminishing return on proper Phaser Operation as viscosity increases.
You changed spark plugs at 52K (a very wise move), and I would recommend changing them again for two reasons. Probably none will break if changed every 50k miles or so. I am also a strong advocate of preventatively replacing O2 sensors around 100k because they become _lazy_ (slow reacting) and out of 'calibration' (as to optimum fuel/air mixture). IMO both of these are prime factors leading to random misfiring ---- a prime cause of these engines trashing plastic chain guides.
(* source of) the tick on the 3v engine. FWIW, I believe oil pressure (AT IDLE) is _borderline sufficient_ on the 5.4L 3v to maintain hydraulic force on TWELVE lash adjusters per head instead of EIGHT in two valve engines. Each lash adjuster "pisses" a small amount of oil out the top to run down the follower onto the roller/cam surface oiling them and the valve stems. Residual pressure continues on through VCT solenoids to phasers and chain tensioners. Phasers (although not 'operational' at idle) are not designed with completely 'sealed' chambers, and by design allow oil to escape all five chambers to oil the chains. As phasers and vane surfaces ware, cylinder head oil galley pressure deteriorates. At some point valve spring resistance overcomes the weakest lash adjusters ability to keep the slack out of the lash adjuster / follower / cam surfaces - AND THE TICK DEVELOPS - at idle. These conditions may be why replacing your Phasers cured your 'tick' for a while. A lifter tick from this source, though annoying and not necessarily a good thing, probably will never hurt anything. The Slightest increase in RPM immediately raises oil pressure above the threshold and the 'tick' cease.
The 'tick' can also result from blown gaskets in the chain tensioners. I notice you did not change tensioners. If that is the source, you probably will encounter the "marbles in a coffee can" noise at startup or certain no-load RPMs. More severe cases develop the 'diesel knock' where idle oil pressure and the phaser clock spring can't keep the phaser advanced and its vanes slap the end of the chambers or slack in the phaser locking pin. Under that scenario, Then - I would be recommending you open her up and go the distance, oil pump and all --- everything (except perhaps your OEM Phasers which have only 50K miles or so on them).
#7
I went thru something similar as you did with the ticking noise. I had ford replace the phaser cams, VCT solenoid, and it had something else broken back around 140k miles. I never stopped that damn ticking noise until I had a Ford mechanic who works out of his home replace all the lifters. I had all but 4 lifters bad in my engine. I sounds and runs perfect now . Good luck!
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