Brought a new 2011 F-250 with the 6.7 and have only put55,000 miles on her and now find out it was one of the early ones with a valveissue. The truck is used for pulling a 5th wheel, so if it goes I would be at the mercy of what ever dealer. It would be hardseems I’m on a fix income but bit the bullet and trade it off. The other option would be pull the heads anddo what Ford should be paying.

 

I was there 18 months ago. No cheap options. Risk for doing nothing is slight, but catistrophic if you are the unlucky. I looked at costs of extended warranty(probably too late for you) and the associated costs of being stuck in nowhere at the wrong time, versus pulling heads and fixing it. Traded it off and moved on. 12 months and 30 k miles later, I was happy with the decision. Now 18 months and 54k, I am sick of my Ford experiences in 5 vehicles in the last 11 years. They look and ride well, but are up to their old tricks " fix or repair daily" once you pass 40k. Unless you buy a plain jane model and get rid of it frequently, it is just too much money for that kind of service life. Will downsize my camper and go back to a non-Ford gasser.

Good luck,

 

I've done OK trading in my Super Duties around 40k miles. The 2011 I had, I didn't put a dime down on and I had $11k in equity. Rolled that into my 2015. I already have more than $11k in equity if I trade it in. If you drive a ton (I don't) the math may not work out. Since I put 10k miles a year on average the math works out for me. So far I have 13k miles and I've had my truck over 2 years. I could do better if I sold private - but I don't really want to deal with it or the risk that comes with selling privately.

I agree with JohnD333's logic as well...

 

If you travel for leisure I would just keep rolling with it.

See if you can insure the truck against engine failure, it's not expensive if you can add it to your auto or homeowners policy.

If it blows you're inconvenienced but if it is insured, just make the best of it and enjoy your leisure time.

You could also save up $12k in cash and hang on to it, pay the bill if she blows, or buy a new truck.

 

I bought my 2011 6.7 Lariat, new off the Lot in May of 2010. The Truck was a Job 1 with a Build date of 03/10. I loved the Truck and was Blissfully unaware of any potential problems in the future. So being a member of this site, I began to hear Horror Stories of early 6.7s engines self destructing due to bad valves. My truck was 5 yrs old last year with about 55K on the clock. I was $5K short of paying off the bank, but everytime that I drove the Truck, I felt that I was rolling the Dice. A local Dealership offered me $35K for my 2011. I weighed my options, and decided that I would rather have a new 2016 F250 with full warranties, and another 4 years of payments than a $35,000 piece of Junk in the Driveway should the engine blow in the 2011. I've been driving my 2016 for a year and have No Regrets

 

I am still driving my 03/10 build 2011. 140,000 miles and still going. I quit worrying about it a long time ago ..... about the time I quit worrying about getting hit by lightning. Your 2011 could blow up or you could buy a 2017 and it could bow up too. Odds slightly better on the 2011 but not by much....

Good luck

 

It's a hard call, but being one of those that did have the valve failure, it's a PITA when they do grenade. Mine was fortunately covered under warranty, but just barely. I just drive mine back and forth to work mainly, but do haul horses with it too. I might have traded it in once I hit the 100k mark, had it not already blown up. You would probably sleep better at night trading it in. You could even go for something used, but newer.

 

I just bought a 2011 also. I have been doing a lot of research and some say the glow plug is the problem, some say its the exhaust valve or seat is the problem. I am thinking it might be both. I checked with two ford dealers, one had seen NO failures, the other had seen two. So I do believe the issue is a small percentage.
It also seems the failure always occur on the right side rear cyl (#4, or passenger rear) and much more common on the C&C trucks. There was some speculation that it was related to the DPF clean cycle as fuel was injected during exhaust stroke on that bank only (during regen).
If that is the case, doing a DPF delete would take care of the issue. My plan is pulling the glows on the right side and replace them. Then do a DPF delete (keep everything so I can return to stock), do proper maintenance, drive the truck and enjoy it.
I did think about doing a valve job, still looking at prices, but I have found rebuilt long blocks for $5,500, not sure it would be worth to JUST do heads. I am thinking about $3000 in new valves, head work and all the gaskets. so I would be out around $2000 more if I had a complete failure than trying to be proactive.

 

sorry, hit wrong button and couldn't delete

 

I might be over simplifying it, but can't you just buy a new pair of heads and swap them out? Don't the heads come with valves installed? Ideally, it's just a matter of nuts and bolts.

 

The only recon heads I found,SO FAR, are $1,500 each. $3,000 for heads, new head bolts, gaskets, from what I heard a lot of labor to get turbo, exhaust man, ans fuel system back together. like I said I haven't looked alot, and having your own heads redone might be a lot cheaper.