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Bypass Oil Filtration

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  #31  
Old 01-17-2019, 11:15 AM
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The TCB is a layer of oil oxidation that essentially forms a boundary layer over the metal. As the OCI goes longer, the TCB matures and gets thicker, although it does reach a pragmatic limit. Whereas we have all been taught that all oxidation is a bad thing, the reality is that some oxidation is good for the parts; it "coats" the surface for a lack of a more simple description. This TCB layer helps reduce metal-to-metal contact, such as when a crankshaft lays against the bearings at startup, before the oil film boundary layer is in place from oil pressure. It also covers cam lobes, etc. I highly encourage you to purchase/read the SAE study and the others that are incorporated therein. The chemistry and effects are well detailed in those studies.

The wear trends in the study engines followed the destruction and reestablishment of the TCB when oil changes occur and then are subsequently allowed to mature. There was direct correlation between the TCB thickness and the wear metal trends. They also tracked viscosity, and there was no correlation between vis and wear.
 
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Old 01-17-2019, 07:04 PM
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Running dual OEM filters probably works better, you could get a oil sandwich plate and have a extra remote filter without much pressure loss. Hook up a temp and pressure gauge and monitor that.
 
  #33  
Old 01-18-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog
A bypass filter using a 5 or smaller micron oil filter can do a lot for your oil...that is only if you are willing to run the oil until it NEEDS to be changed. Almost everyone is changing their oil long before it HAS to be changed. I deal with large industrial engines that run 24/7 and with good filtration and analysis the oil lasts for several years. It can cost us $10K to change the oil so this filtration is worth the money. I recently ran a bypass filter system on a Cat 3608 that had a particle count of 22/21/15, after only about 20 hours of filtration the particle count was down to 16/15/11. Don't worry about the color of your oil, in a gas engine it darkens from oxidation, but if the oxidation isn't affecting the viscosity is doesn't make any difference. In a diesel engine the new oil will again turn black very quickly unless you flush the engine. Only a small amount of soot will change the color...you have to do a particle count analysis to understand the amount of grit in the system.

Since I doubt any of you are willing to run your oil long enough to "wear it out" a bypass system won't give you a good return on your investment.

You are really looking for the size of particle that matches the oil film thickness in your bearings...those are the ones that can scratch the bearing. Bigger can't fit through and smaller will pass through. It is starting the engine that causes most of the wear. Use a pre lube system if you want to reduce wear. I time how long it takes the oil to reach and cover the top of the engine, then I run the oil pump for that period plus some time before starting these engines. I can routinely get the equivalent of 1,000,000 miles out of them and also hit 2,000,000 miles by pre lubricating them. That is calculated by the run hours times 45 mph which is the average speed a vehicle moves at over it's lifetime.

All in all...oil is a slippery subject.
I have 55k mi. on the oil in my '05 Duramax. with bypass filtration. Only reason I changed it at 86k is because I lost a headgasket and had subsequent tear down. Wear was zero. UOA with Particle Count (ISO4406 at 15k intervals).
No one needs to repeat how ignorant I am about lubrication, I've read this entire thread.
 
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