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1992 F-350 dome and cargo light dont work HELPP

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  #16  
Old 10-21-2016, 08:13 PM
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Are you sure this is a 1992 and not a 1991?
 
  #17  
Old 10-23-2016, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
Here is one for a 1993, it should be close:


/
have checked ll fuses and discovered fuse "U" in the engine fuse box is not getting any power terminals also not getting any power could this be causing any of the problems inside the cab ?? both fuse S and 8 are however getting power
 
  #18  
Old 10-24-2016, 07:24 AM
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Fuse "U" gets its power from fuse "P" by way of the Ignition Switch.
The Ignition switch has to be in the "Start" or "Run" position for power to get to fuse "U".
 
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:22 AM
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[QUOTE=subford;16668285]Fuse "U" gets its power from fuse "P" by way of the Ignition Switch.
The Ignition switch has to be in the "Start" or "Run" position for power to get to
oh ok. Thank you Ill start checking wires
 
  #20  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Single or crew cab? Have you tried the passenger door? If crew cab, have you tried the rear doors?
crew cab. What do you mean tried the doors ? Tried as in the door switches ?
 
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Are you sure this is a 1992 and not a 1991?
title says 1992 so im fairly certain its a 91. What would the difference be tho ?
 
  #22  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RJ sheedy
crew cab. What do you mean tried the doors ? Tried as in the door switches ?
Have you confirmed that the dome light doesn't work by opening any of the doors?
 
  #23  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Have you confirmed that the dome light doesn't work by opening any of the doors?
Yes i have hooked up a 12v tester to the wires and opened all the doors with no success
 
  #24  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RJ sheedy
title says 1992 so im fairly certain its a 91. What would the difference be tho ?
I think you meant to put 92 and not 91.

The 1991 speedometer is cable driven and the 1992 is electric and powered by fuse #8 that also powers the dome light.

But if you have that fuse relay box as in post #17 above than it is a 1992 or newer.
 
  #25  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
I think you meant to put 92 and not 91.

The 1991 speedometer is cable driven and the 1992 is electric and powered by fuse #8 that also powers the dome light.

But if you have that fuse relay box as in post #17 above than it is a 1992 or newer.
ohhhh yea its a 92 had the instrument panel out yesterday no cables
 
  #26  
Old 10-31-2016, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Eddiec1564
As the speedometer is working, fuse #8 is good as with the engine bay fuse.

Check the dome light grounds. They are usually grounded through the mounting screw to the cab. Other problem could be a bad wire harness along the driver's side floor under that plastic trim that holds down the floor mat/carpet. Possible another ground strap in the rear of cab close by the seat belt re-tractor(not sure on that, have to check the 92 F150 I have)).
UPDATE: went through and checked wires and two of the wires going into the harness for the light **** are melted and cut looks like someone jerry rigged a fix before that isnt working now. one of the wires is the same color pattern as one of the wires that goes to the top dome light and rear bed light now most likely need to pull the dash and rewire it unless anyone has any better ideas.
 
  #27  
Old 10-31-2016, 11:26 PM
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Issue is probably isolated to the switch/connector. Headlight switch is a known weak point. Replace the connector and switch. Shouldn't require dash removal. Consider LEDs to reduce the load on the switch contacts. Also consider a relay harness for the headlights; even though it's a different circuit, it's part of the under-engineering of the headlight switch, and a failure there may cause damage to other wires / terminals on the switch and connector.
 
  #28  
Old 11-01-2016, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Issue is probably isolated to the switch/connector. Headlight switch is a known weak point. Replace the connector and switch. Shouldn't require dash removal. Consider LEDs to reduce the load on the switch contacts. Also consider a relay harness for the headlights; even though it's a different circuit, it's part of the under-engineering of the headlight switch, and a failure there may cause damage to other wires / terminals on the switch and connector.
Ohhh ok so i should replace the whole headlight switch/connector What about the melted wire tho ? from the 6 inches of wire i can see its pretty fried. To the point of the copper being visible. Do i just leave the wire as is ? I will attach pictures to this thread tomorrow Afternoon
 
  #29  
Old 11-01-2016, 12:31 AM
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Yes, post pics. I might have misinterpreted your message. Is the connector part of the wire damage?
 
  #30  
Old 11-01-2016, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Yes, post pics. I might have misinterpreted your message. Is the connector part of the wire damage?
no the connector is not damaged. About half an inch down the wire from the connecter the insulation is melted to ***** This is on two wires one green with a white stripe and the other black with purple stripe. The green one is the same wire as on of the connections on the dome light. Couldnt get pics today btw srry. I will try to tmw. The instrument bezel is back on and didnt have time to take it off
 


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