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New thermostat...still spewing at overfill tank

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  #31  
Old 11-26-2016, 07:30 PM
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I hate to say it, but that fan is not enough for a full size truck. I had dual 12" fans on an S-blazer with a 4.3. You really need to get a shroud and an OEM fan.
 
  #32  
Old 11-26-2016, 07:41 PM
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That sucks. I cant find the oem fan blade on rockauto so ill probably have to try the scrapyard and get the fanclutch and blade since i do have the shroud already.
 
  #33  
Old 11-26-2016, 07:53 PM
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in that first picture you have a gizmo with 2 phillips screws and a brass coloured shaft sticking out of the middle of it. looks like it's supposed to have a control **** on it. this is JUST a guess, but i am thinking that it may be a variable resistor that was mickey-moused in there to control the non-stock electric fan.
i would check to see whether you have power and ground to the fan and whether that gizmo does , in fact, control fan speed.
 
  #34  
Old 11-26-2016, 07:54 PM
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p.s. ... as suggested, i would put it back to stock, regardless of what you find.
 
  #35  
Old 11-26-2016, 08:08 PM
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I guess I should get a power probe 3 at somepoint. How do you check for power and ground joey? Yeah, I didn't know if that gizmo was a relay or what but I did think some kind of control **** goes there too.
 
  #36  
Old 11-26-2016, 08:31 PM
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do you have a test light or a multimeter ? if not, get one, preferably a digital multimeter that has a "beeping" function for checking continuity. they are not expensive, are indispensable if you want to work on vehicles, and they are not complicated to use. youtube is your friend when you want to learn basic multimeter use.
 
  #37  
Old 11-26-2016, 08:42 PM
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Sounds good. Thanks joey. I have a digital multimeter that beeps.
 
  #38  
Old 11-27-2016, 12:53 PM
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That fan alone should cool a V8, I should know, I have a ebay cheapo on my own truck. Check for proper function of the fan controller and the fan itself. Make sure its kicking on somewhere around 195F. you can also wire the fan to be on with key on power to test and prove out the system/confirm that everything is working correctly and your truck is cooling down as it should.
 
  #39  
Old 11-27-2016, 06:24 PM
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Hey shadow. I think ill try the fan and see how it does this winter at least. If it doesnt work then ill be going back to oem parts. Where should i put this wire at the fuse box?


 
  #40  
Old 11-27-2016, 06:48 PM
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i wouldn't put it anywhere until i knew what it was for.
looks like the p.o. cheaped out, installed an electric fan, then disconnected it because it was probably blowing fuses (otherwise, why would he disconnect it). there are a lot of guys here who know these trucks inside out, but once something has been altered from stock, it gets a little more difficult.
i still think your best move is to put it back to stock. if you apply 12 volts to that arrangement chances are that you will start blowing fuses too.
 
  #41  
Old 11-27-2016, 06:48 PM
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overflow tank

Originally Posted by tuxedobuttonquail
i didn't know you could get away with no overflow tank like that.

Should I plug the wire into the fuse box or what do you guys think?
as long as the radiator doesnt leak,

I've had my truck for 3 years running without a overflow tank.

I have the overflow hooked up on my radiator,

and didnt overfill my radiator,

I have the 4.9 motor.

I use to fill up the overflow tank, but its cracked or something, because the coolant disappears from it!

I started using my heater recently, and now the thermostat housing gasket is leaking, but that is pretty much it.
 
  #42  
Old 11-27-2016, 07:02 PM
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yeah i dont want to cheap out on anything with this truck. i bought her for $1500, and i have about $1,500 new brake parts and tires. I was just thinking I could use this setup and try it out but it makes more sense to go back to stock for the good of the truck anyways.
 
  #43  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:57 PM
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Sorry. Work and projects held up a solid reply. In regards to the fan. Find the main power wire to the fan and connect it to a TEMPORARY connection like the main power off the battery for testing only and proving the fan out is okay. You can even put a 50 amp fuse block in between that wire and the fan to save yourself a bunch of wiring or a big scare IF there is an issue. (I suggest 50 AMP due to the unknowns of the fans draw/start load).

If the fan works but the temperature switch setup is non functional you have options.

Option A, go to auto-zone and buy another, make sure once connected up as per the instructions to adjust the screw to come on at the proper temperature and that the temp probe is located as close on the radiator to the upper hose connection as you can get it.

Option B. Your standard relay wired as one should be with a switch in the truck to turn it off once you get up to highway speeds if you please (Remember to turn it back on when rolling around 30 MPH or lower, may not hurt to wire a light into the circuit as a reminder of some kind.)

Option C. Same Relay as previously discussed with no more than a Key on power going into the relay, the fan will run all the time but you will not have to keep your eyes on a switch.

If you are not sure how to wire relays, google is ya friend. It is how I figured out what to do and what not to do.

Also. If wiring it to run all the time does not assist your issue, Start diagnosing again.
 
  #44  
Old 11-30-2016, 06:04 AM
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I had a similar issue on a 5.0 truck i had. Took the stock fan off for an electric fan like pictured. Wanted more power.Overheated the truck many times. Glad i never blew a head gasket.

Id hit the parts store or the junkyard and grab a stock fan to do the job, sooner than later..... Good luck

​​​​​​​Edit: and a fan shorud
 
  #45  
Old 12-01-2016, 09:57 AM
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Thanks for the information Shadow and rjg. Ive been busy helping my psycho moody grandfather install new brake shoes on his 48 buick roadmaster. As soon as this is done ill be going back to the f-250...thank god lol.
 


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