Cab-on engine removal?
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Joined: Oct 2016
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Cab-on engine removal?
Hi,
I'm looking at purchasing a 2008 F350 with a 6.8L V10. The engine has seized and needs replacement so I am weighing my options on if I should buy it. I was at the dealer today looking to get a factory replacement engine and was told that the new trucks require that the cab be removed in order to remove the engine.
Is this true for a 2008? If I pull the radiator and grille off could I remove the engine with the cab still on from the front of the truck?
Does anyone have any experience doing this with the 3v engines? Looks like it's possible with the older 2v V10s. But I can't seem to find anything on the newer 3v engines.
Thanks,
Matt
I'm looking at purchasing a 2008 F350 with a 6.8L V10. The engine has seized and needs replacement so I am weighing my options on if I should buy it. I was at the dealer today looking to get a factory replacement engine and was told that the new trucks require that the cab be removed in order to remove the engine.
Is this true for a 2008? If I pull the radiator and grille off could I remove the engine with the cab still on from the front of the truck?
Does anyone have any experience doing this with the 3v engines? Looks like it's possible with the older 2v V10s. But I can't seem to find anything on the newer 3v engines.
Thanks,
Matt
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 5
From: Ceres, CA
I don't see any reason why not. Once you remove the intake there is plenty of room to lift it. Lifting it with the intake on is tricky, hard to grab close enough. But once everything external is removed there isn't really any difference in size between the two
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
The 08' will be fairly easy to lift the cab if desired.(though not needed) The diesels were always crapping out and needed the cab pulled on the earlier models so Ford made it quicker on the later models.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 113
Likes: 1
I Pulled the engine on my 2007 without taking the cab off. I striped the engine of the intake and exhaust manifolds and all the gear on the front of the engine with the exception of the harmonic balancer. It barely fit. You can take the top rad support off as well and it will be an easy pull. All the wiring was easily removed and replaced. The AC compressor can be set off to the side so you don't have to evacuate the system. While out I cleaned and painted everything I could.
If you pull the cab you could do a better job on that but I think it would be more work. I think the V10 is more than 700lbs, in fact, I think it is 700lbs less than a 6.0 diesel, but still a heavy engine. The stand I used needed some help on the front of the engine to keep me comfortable that it wasn't going to break. May be more due to the length then weight...
A big job either way but I managed with the cab on.
If you pull the cab you could do a better job on that but I think it would be more work. I think the V10 is more than 700lbs, in fact, I think it is 700lbs less than a 6.0 diesel, but still a heavy engine. The stand I used needed some help on the front of the engine to keep me comfortable that it wasn't going to break. May be more due to the length then weight...
A big job either way but I managed with the cab on.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 5
From: Ceres, CA
Ford modular SOHC & DOHC tech & specifications
They list the 6.8 at 640lbs
I didn't remove the intake or the exhaust manifolds to lift mine. Just the throttle body and stuff that bolted on top. Dropped the P/S pump, A/C pump, and Alt (didn't even unwire it) Radiator and cross support. Electrical was just two plugs, a few vacuum hoses.
I did evac the A/C because I couldn't move the condenser out of the way enough but once everything on front was pulled off it came out easy and you can stand right in front of the engine and get to everything super easy.
They list the 6.8 at 640lbs
I didn't remove the intake or the exhaust manifolds to lift mine. Just the throttle body and stuff that bolted on top. Dropped the P/S pump, A/C pump, and Alt (didn't even unwire it) Radiator and cross support. Electrical was just two plugs, a few vacuum hoses.
I did evac the A/C because I couldn't move the condenser out of the way enough but once everything on front was pulled off it came out easy and you can stand right in front of the engine and get to everything super easy.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 560
Likes: 4
From: Anchorage, Alaska
My truck is older, but I pulled my intake off and lifted mine out of the engine bay. I had a 3 stand engine stand and the front felt a little scary due to the engine length. The weight isn't an issue, its the length of the engine that makes the stand feel sketchy. Replacing the heads was scary due to the amount of torque required to bolt the new heads down. This is the stand I used...
Strongway Folding Engine Stand — 1,500-Lb. Capacity, Steel | Engine Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment
I wished I would have had at a bare minimum one of these...
Strongway Engine Stand — 2,000-Lb. Capacity | Engine Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment
Strongway Folding Engine Stand — 1,500-Lb. Capacity, Steel | Engine Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment
I wished I would have had at a bare minimum one of these...
Strongway Engine Stand — 2,000-Lb. Capacity | Engine Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment
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