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Best Tire Needed for SRW Fifth Wheel Towing

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Old 10-13-2016, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Mayo131
I ran 285 65 r18 BFG KO2s and got 55,000 miles out of my last set. What are you guys doing to wear them out so fast? They are definitely my favorite, but unfortunately don't come in a 37" size, so I'm going with the toyo rt this time.
They wear out so fast because the trailer's we pull are heavy. I bet I would get 80k out of my goodyear TA's if I wasn't towing such a heavy trailer.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
They wear out so fast because the trailer's we pull are heavy. I bet I would get 80k out of my goodyear TA's if I wasn't towing such a heavy trailer.

This is true. I've had both the options Ford is shipping the 17's with on my current truck. Michelin LTX AT2 came from Ford and then I went to GY Wrangler AT Adventure. Both wore VERY quickly as I tow heavy in the summer and plow from time to time in the winter. Lots of weight front and back for more than half my miles.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by PrinceValium
That is one BEAST of a 5th wheel!! That is some CRAZY pin weight too! You have to be over your payload rating.
I'm not as far over my payload rating as the many 3/4 ton truck owners that I see rolling down the road with these triple axle toy haulers in tow. 90% of the trucks I see pulling these are 3/4 tons. My only concern is my tires. I'm right at their limit. That's why I wouldn't mind finding a stronger tire.
 
  #19  
Old 10-13-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
No toys in the garage, but it's usually loaded with everyone's gear. I run 75 psi on front truck tires, somewhere around 78 on the drive axle and trailer tires.
The truck handles the trailer quite easily, and with a 3rd axle on the trailer I get good braking. I'm looking forward to the exhaust brake on the 17 though.
The truck has an H&S mini max on it that gives it a crazy amount of power, but the truck was plenty powerful enough before the tuning.
Also, I run with Firestone air springs in the back to level it out.
That may be one of the reasons that your pin weight is higher than it should be. Toy haulers are built with the axles moved further to the rear, thereby allowing them to support a few thousand pounds sitting in the garage. Empty garage - no counter-balancing weight to lighten the pin...

Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
Ace, no offense, but I don't think your anywhere near 6k pin weight. More likely about 4300#. Your drive axle is probably like mine at around 3500# unloaded.
This is what I was thinking too..
He needs to find a CAT scale and get the baseline for his truck..
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
That may be one of the reasons that your pin weight is higher than it should be. Toy haulers are built with the axles moved further to the rear, thereby allowing them to support a few thousand pounds sitting in the garage. Empty garage - no counter-balancing weight to lighten the pin...



This is what I was thinking too..
He needs to find a CAT scale and get the baseline for his truck..
On a 43' trailer there is very few places where you could put the axles to relieve pin weight but still properly support the trailer, especially on a TH. You can only move the axles forward so far.

My drive axle weighed in at 7200lbs when I weighed the truck and trailer. You guys are right, I have to weigh the truck without the trailer, but how much could the back end of that empty truck bed actually weigh? I shall see.
 
  #21  
Old 10-13-2016, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
As expensive as 20" tires are, I would steer clear of tires that only last 25,000 miles. That's a joke.
I have Goodyear TA's on my 08 F350 and I pull a 43' Road Warrior toy hauler with over 6000lbs of pin weight. The Goodyears are rated at 3750lbs and have held up well. 65,000 miles on them so far, but they are nearing the end (one of many reasons why I ordered a 17).
My plan is to run the Michelin's until it's time to get new tires. I was toying with the idea of purchasing a second set of tires and rims to use Just when towing the fiver. But that's just a thought at this point.
You said the Michelin's gave you some trouble, what was it? The michelin's I had prior to these GR's contributed to a death wobble issue on my 08. They seemed to have a weak side wall.
The Michelins were chunking off, where gravel size pieces were breaking off. I had the death wobble as well. But I'll get the DW with the BFGs when they go out of balance or low on tread. Never with balanced or new tires.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
They wear out so fast because the trailer's we pull are heavy. I bet I would get 80k out of my goodyear TA's if I wasn't towing such a heavy trailer.
My BFG KO2s (which is supposed to be improved over the KOs) seemed like half the tire was gone after about 8k, then they seem to harden up and don't wear as bad. I know when I trade my truck in I'm going to hear about the tires. I hope to do some bargaining to give them the Michelins back to put on the old truck.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by kg_nc
My BFG KO2s (which is supposed to be improved over the KOs) seemed like half the tire was gone after about 8k, then they seem to harden up and don't wear as bad. I know when I trade my truck in I'm going to hear about the tires. I hope to do some bargaining to give them the Michelins back to put on the old truck.
Reading through all these posts I'm not seeing a better option that the Goodyear TA's that I have on my 08. I bet I coulfld easily get 70-75k out of those even though I'm pulling an extremely heavy trailer.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kg_nc
My BFG KO2s (which is supposed to be improved over the KOs) seemed like half the tire was gone after about 8k, then they seem to harden up and don't wear as bad. I know when I trade my truck in I'm going to hear about the tires. I hope to do some bargaining to give them the Michelins back to put on the old truck.
From TT's to sport tires and pick-ups I experimented with best traction and ultra long life tires a couple of times. Seems that when the first 50% of the tread was gone they would wear forever but at a loss of the good traction I was looking for at the beginning. I see that Michelin changed their warranty on one of their best tires back to 50K from 70K. Not a show stopper since most won't bother chasing a warranty for the pittance gained on near term tires but I am curious why the reduction. Change in materials or dictated by experience?
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
On a 43' trailer there is very few places where you could put the axles to relieve pin weight but still properly support the trailer, especially on a TH. You can only move the axles forward so far.

My drive axle weighed in at 7200lbs when I weighed the truck and trailer. You guys are right, I have to weigh the truck without the trailer, but how much could the back end of that empty truck bed actually weigh? I shall see.

My TH axles are very forward and even when my RV is over 20k, I only have about 2700# pin. That said, I still think your drive axle is 3500# unloaded like mine. Maybe a hair more being a long bed.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
My TH axles are very forward and even when my RV is over 20k, I only have about 2700# pin. That said, I still think your drive axle is 3500# unloaded like mine. Maybe a hair more being a long bed.
I was way off, total brain spasm on my part because at one time I knew these figures. I just weighed my truck and it came in at 3540 on the drive axle, which leaves me with 3660lbs of trailer pin weight.
But the number I always keep a close eye on is the total drive axle value. I weighed in at 7200lbs with the trailer hooked up and minimal gear in the truck bed. That's within 300lbs of what my rear tires are rated to handle.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:00 PM
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I'm on my second set it the toyo open country ATll they are great tires im running 325-50-r22. I'm getting 50-60 thousand miles out of them with rotating them 5000 miles .
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The Ace of Spades
I was way off, total brain spasm on my part because at one time I knew these figures. I just weighed my truck and it came in at 3540 on the drive axle, which leaves me with 3660lbs of trailer pin weight.
But the number I always keep a close eye on is the total drive axle value. I weighed in at 7200lbs with the trailer hooked up and minimal gear in the truck bed. That's within 300lbs of what my rear tires are rated to handle.
Whew!!!! That sounds better...

This was one of my CAT scale slips

Remember that your steer axle weight will also go up with that load in the bed...

 
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:22 PM
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Steer is dependent on hitch position in the bed as well as load in the garage on mine Randy. I have mine in the more rear position and my steer actually goes down by 140 when hooked up with the garage empty. However, when I put 2k in the garage, my truck sets a little more level with less pin and therefor the steer stays exactly the same. Mine never goes up but I'm guessing if I reversed my hitch, moving my pin forward 1.5", it might.
 
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
Whew!!!! That sounds better...

This was one of my CAT scale slips

Remember that your steer axle weight will also go up with that load in the bed...

Do you still have that trailer? I notice you sold your 2015 dually diesel and are ordering a gasser.
 

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