When i connect positive connector, engine cranks no matter what
#1
When i connect positive connector, engine cranks no matter what
So I replaced my starter and solenoid 2 weeks ago. Truck was perfect.
Took off some non functional fog lights, I made a dumb move and connected the replacement lights to the +/- on solenoid. Nothing happed so I took it all off, and connected the positive cable to the battery. Engine started cranking without keys in.
I disconnected all lights and mini ignition terminals.
STILL cranks.
I replaced the solenoid last night....
Still Cranks
I ripped apart my ignition wires, some looked horribly corroded so ill get them fix either way.
Still when I power my solenoid, with no lights/ignition connected the starter cranks.
Ground to block is good. Connection to starter is solid.
I doubt my solenoid is bad since its new, same with the one before hand. Is it possible my starter is to blame? cheap NAPA PN: RAY 2449622
I work with engineers, ill take the 2 solenoids and starter to work tomorrow and let me meter and hopefully find the problem.
Anyone have any tips? hints on what I am dealing with?
Took off some non functional fog lights, I made a dumb move and connected the replacement lights to the +/- on solenoid. Nothing happed so I took it all off, and connected the positive cable to the battery. Engine started cranking without keys in.
I disconnected all lights and mini ignition terminals.
STILL cranks.
I replaced the solenoid last night....
Still Cranks
I ripped apart my ignition wires, some looked horribly corroded so ill get them fix either way.
Still when I power my solenoid, with no lights/ignition connected the starter cranks.
Ground to block is good. Connection to starter is solid.
I doubt my solenoid is bad since its new, same with the one before hand. Is it possible my starter is to blame? cheap NAPA PN: RAY 2449622
I work with engineers, ill take the 2 solenoids and starter to work tomorrow and let me meter and hopefully find the problem.
Anyone have any tips? hints on what I am dealing with?
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2X. With the I and S leads disconnected there is nothing telling the solenoid to pass the 12V through it. Both solenoids you bought must be cheaper made in China crap. I suggest buying one of a name brand. Like a Genuine Ford Motorcraft one. Still available from Ford. Part number B6AZ11450B (SW7663).
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#9
OK next option remove all the system feed wires from the battery side of the solenoid. and see if it still cranks.
The standard Old school Ford starters have one wire to them and no solenoid mounted on it. It just uses a movable pole shoe to engage the starter drive.
If it still cranks replace the solenoid.
Alternatively you disconnect all the wires from the solenoid and do a continuity test on battery feed terminal and the starter feed terminal. If you have continuity the solenoid is stuck if a rap from hammer fails to jar it lose pitch it and get a new one.
Also it would be helpful if we had a pic of your starter who know what some one put on it in the past. Ford did use solenoid actuated starters in some applications and who knows who did what in the past.
See below pic of Pole shoe starter and Ford Solenoid starter.
The standard Old school Ford starters have one wire to them and no solenoid mounted on it. It just uses a movable pole shoe to engage the starter drive.
If it still cranks replace the solenoid.
Alternatively you disconnect all the wires from the solenoid and do a continuity test on battery feed terminal and the starter feed terminal. If you have continuity the solenoid is stuck if a rap from hammer fails to jar it lose pitch it and get a new one.
Also it would be helpful if we had a pic of your starter who know what some one put on it in the past. Ford did use solenoid actuated starters in some applications and who knows who did what in the past.
See below pic of Pole shoe starter and Ford Solenoid starter.
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I did look up that SOL PN and did see it is from NAPA but for $20 I don't think it is the HD one.
If you can get a MC one would be good or check with NAPA to see if they have a HD one for your truck.
I hang out over in the 80-86 area and this is a big issues for us too. It is hard to find good SOL today. Some even go to junk yards to pull old stock ones to use because the new ones from store are just plain junk.
Dave ----
edit: Make sure where it mounts to is good as it needs a good ground.
If you can get a MC one would be good or check with NAPA to see if they have a HD one for your truck.
I hang out over in the 80-86 area and this is a big issues for us too. It is hard to find good SOL today. Some even go to junk yards to pull old stock ones to use because the new ones from store are just plain junk.
Dave ----
edit: Make sure where it mounts to is good as it needs a good ground.
#12
I did look up that SOL PN and did see it is from NAPA but for $20 I don't think it is the HD one.
If you can get a MC one would be good or check with NAPA to see if they have a HD one for your truck.
I hang out over in the 80-86 area and this is a big issues for us too. It is hard to find good SOL today. Some even go to junk yards to pull old stock ones to use because the new ones from store are just plain junk.
Dave ----
edit: Make sure where it mounts to is good as it needs a good ground.
If you can get a MC one would be good or check with NAPA to see if they have a HD one for your truck.
I hang out over in the 80-86 area and this is a big issues for us too. It is hard to find good SOL today. Some even go to junk yards to pull old stock ones to use because the new ones from store are just plain junk.
Dave ----
edit: Make sure where it mounts to is good as it needs a good ground.
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